Judy. When last we were in Morocco (see archived blogposts November 13, 2018), I became friends with our riad owners, Sam and Youness. Over the years, Samara and I have texted and called and developed our friendship, so when she asked me to come back for a visit, I hopped on Ryan Air with my overnight bag and headed back to Riad Romance.
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| Sam and me |
Arrival in Marrakech is a good test of patience. Again, I waited in the passport line (but this time for only 45 minutes!), put my little bag on the customs x-ray, and headed out to find my driver, who'd been waiting, maybe not so patiently.
I'd forgotten how beautiful the roads are in the new part of the city--palm trees lit up, flashing lights along the lanes--it almost made up for the insanity of the traffic! I have utmost respect for anyone who drives in that town, and even more as they turn into the gates of the medina, careening down narrow streets and dodging motorbikes, bicycles, pedestrians, and other cars. I felt like I was in a bumper-car ride at the fair! But we finally pulled into the alley, ducked through the doorway into the walkway and rang the doorbell at Riad Romance.
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| Courtyard and breakfast room at Riad Romance |
And then it felt like home. Sam was unable to be there to welcome me, so she'd had Latifa make a lemon chicken tagine for my dinner, after which the young Youness showed me to my room. Tired, full, and comfortable, I went right to sleep.
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| Breakfast for one! |
After a huge breakfast, Sam arrived, took care of some business, and took me for a walk through the souk to Jemma el F'na, the main square.
The square was still crazy, but not as crowded as it had been five years ago. The pandemic and earthquake have taken a bit of a toll on the tourism here, but I was assured that it's coming back. There were only two snake charmers, and no bands or twirling hats. It was clean and beautiful, though, and we walked around, catching up until lunchtime.
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| Entrance to the souk from Jemma el F'na |
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| Pastries at a shop |
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| Part of the souk |
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| Bringing supplies to repair earthquake damage |
Youness, Sam's business partner at the riad, also is part owner of a restaurant, Terrasse la Medersa. Fabulous food for a ridiculously low price--chicken couscous with vegetables for about $5, and I couldn't eat it all. Afterwards we sat and talked to Youness and his restaurant partner Achmed. After berating me for not bringing Ted, Youness bought our lunch.
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| Youness (L) and his restaurant partner, Achmed |
By this time it was hot, so we headed back to the riad for a rest and for Sam to take care of some business. That evening she took me to the New City for dinner at a traditional restaurant. The food was delicious, and the juices we drank were even better. I picked up the bill for the two of us: 120 MAD, about $12. And I still couldn't eat all my food!
The next morning Sam wasn't feeling well, so I was on my own. I needed to use the ATM, but was not comfortable as a lone female going alone, so Neil and Marnie, an Australian couple, offered to walk with me.
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| Passing some earthquake damage |
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| Neil and Marnie, lifesavers! |
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| Are you kidding me??? |
Boy, did we get lost. I think we passed the same pottery stand four times, and laughed harder each time we did. At one point I saw a sign "RIAD ESCAPE ROOM" Shoot! We were in our own escape room just trying to get out of the medina!
When we finally found our way, Neil and Marnie stayed with me while I took out some dirhams, then offered to buy me something cold to drink. Since alcohol is hard to find here, Moroccans make incredible juices and smoothies, perfect for the heat there. From there we ducked back to the Terrasse for lunch, and then crashed for siesta.
In the past few years, a 16th century madrassa, or school, has been restored. It was quite a famous school, and the restoration is absolutely stunning. I spent an hour or so just wandering through its cool rooms, marveling at the pools, student dorms, study rooms, and prayer rooms.
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| Courtyard |
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| "Dorm rooms" |
Sam felt better, so she, Neil, Marnie, and I headed back to the Terrasse for dinner. (Yes, the restaurant is that good.) We sat on the roof, enjoying the cool breeze. My lamb skewers and vegetables and eggplant salad were excellent. I'll miss that place.
The next morning was my last. I took one last walk into the souks, and as I stepped alone into the first narrow street on the way, a woman my age, dressed with headscarf and a veil over her face, came toward me. I wished her "Bonjour", and she stopped, placed her hands in prayer and bowed to me. I repeated her gesture and smiled. She reached out her hand to me, and I took it in both of mine and our eyes met. She pulled back her hand and blew me a kiss, then walked on. With all the conflict in the world, nothing could have moved me more than that brief moment of human contact. That, my friends, is why we travel.
We left a little early for the airport so we could stop for a coffee and catch up on the way, then headed on. Sam asked about American singers I like, and I introduced her to Paul Simon. We rocked our drive to "Diamonds on the Soles of Her Shoes."
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| Heading to the airport |
I feel so honored to have met so many beautiful people around the world. How blessed am I that a visit to a riad five years ago would bring about a strong friendship for two people with lives so very different, yet beliefs so much the same.
Marrakech and Samara. Great combo.
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