Montréal

Judy. Years ago we visited Montréal in an effort to escape the heat of Georgia, only to find that it was hotter there than in our home state. Still, we really liked the city, and we have friends there whom we wanted to see, so we left Magog and headed to the big city. 

As he’s done before, Ted found us a gorgeous and comfortable hotel on the last stop of the metro line. With so many festivals in the city, a stay in Laval (with a 25-minute ride in) was less expensive and quieter. Hôtel St-Martin was charming, with a yummy breakfast spread and lovely outdoor seating. 

We had a small suite in the tall part

Our first day we walked to a nearby coffee shop to meet Dan and Alison, acquaintances from our hikes in Oaxaca, Mexico. They were heading to their mountain cabin, and we made arrangements to meet later in the week. 

With Dan & Alison and their good buddy Ginger Baker

From there we took the metro into the city for a warm reunion with Sylvie and Gilles. We got to know them on our first transatlantic cruise, and had met up again in Chile when a cruise took them to La Serena. They took us on a tour first of Vieux Montréal, around the port, past the Cathedral, to several art galleries, and to Place Jacques-Cartier, where we had lunch and caught up. Then Gilles insisted we see “underground Montréal,” the series of passages that weave around the business area of the city. One could walk for miles and never get out in the heat or the cold. 

A very happy reunion with Sylvie and Gilles

The next day we drove to St-Eustache for—wait for it—a famous flea market! Since we have a truck, we were able to buy a couple of things we wanted for the apartment, at much lower prices. And we had a heckuva good time! 

The Musée de Beaux Artes was next, and a lovely surprise. Of course we looked for, and found, a couple of Emily Carr paintings, as well as a plethora of Indigenous People’s artworks.

Loved this "totem pole" of baby blankets

 

Emily Carr's work never ceases to thrill

Finally, we went to a Richard Avedon exhibit of portraits on aging, which was absolutely stunning.   

The Duke

In addition to celebrities, Avedon added this photo of a nun's joy

        

We saved the Archeological Museum for the following day. What an encyclopedia that was! It encompasses three buildings, and begins on the spot Montreal was founded. Ruins of early houses, models and videos about the establishment and growth of the city, and even a walk through an old sewer to an exhibit honoring the original French habitants, gave a clear sense of its importance. 

A walk through time

What a lineup!

Montréal is hosting its famous jazz festival this month, and the lineup is a who’s who of important musicians, some of whom I’d love to stay and see. We did catch a lovely street performance of a young group of students, Couleurs Cazz, which we enjoyed before heading to meet Dan and Alison for dinner and more conversation. 

Young band Couleurs Cazz can sing some mean scat

It was a great visit, but the Laurentian Mountains were calling, so we bid a fond adieu to a lovely (still warm, but not as hot as our last visit), exciting city.

Until next time, Mr. Cohen

Quebec's Eastern Townships

Ted. Many years ago, Judy and I visited Canada’s largest province - Quebec. We loved it and vowed to return one day to see more. On this trip we decided to begin in the southeastern region known as the Eastern Townships. 

The first settlers here (of European origin) were British loyalists who arrived in the late 18th century during the unpleasantries in the colonies to the south. It soon became home to many English immigrants. They were then joined by relocating French speaking Canadians who now make up the majority. Thus, one sees towns and streets with English names but hears French spoken in the shops and cafes. 

Unlike much of rocky, mountainous New England, the gentle rolling hills here have rich soil and we saw lots of large dairy farms with bright green pastures. 

There is also a scattering of mountains so the region is a popular year round destination for Canadians as it boasts skiing and other winter sports as well as boating, cycling and hiking in the summer. 

On leaving Rumford, Maine we had a relaxing country drive to the border crossing at tiny Hereford, Quebec. When we were stopped at the Canadian border control, the officer checked our passports, looked at our vehicle, scratched his head and asked, "Did you drive all the way from Georgia in THAT?" We assured him that, yes we did and yes, Raymond is very reliable so we will be fine. I feel certain he told his wife over dinner that night, "You'll never believe what came across today!"

Arriving soon after in the town of Magog, we found it to be the perfect base for a weeklong exploration of the area. Our Airbnb was just a few blocks from the shores of Lake Memphremagog and a 10 minute drive to Mt Orford National Park. 

Lake Memphremagog

Anyone who has ever read a mystery by Louise Penny will know that Chief Inspector Gamache operates in the Eastern Townships. An abbey near Magog served as a model for her book, The Beautiful Mystery.

Abbaye de Saint-Benoît-du-Lac

Judy and I spent our days exploring the surrounding countryside, hiking in the national park and savoring the sunny, mid 70’s weather of a Canadian summer. We even attended a concert at the Orford Music Festival.

Étang aux Cerises (Cherry Pond) in the NP

Hiking along a steep bit in the NP

A dual purpose trail - we opted against snowshoes

O, Canada!

Maine

Judy. Happy Canada Day!

Leaving Massachusetts, we headed to Maine, first to see the famed Portland Head Light House in Ft Williams Park, and a glimpse of the wild Maine coast. Although we were only there an hour or so, it was a powerful introduction to the shores we’d heard about. We also ran into several Scottish soccer fans, something that always delights us. 

From there we drove to Portland, already crowded with tourists, but lovely all the same. Avoiding the crowds in the popular parts of town, we walked across to a local hotspot for lobster rolls, A Bite of Maine. Well worth the walk. 

That evening we arrived in Brewer, a suburb of Bangor, to spend the next few days. Although right across the river from Bangor proper, it’s a quieter town, more blue collar, and a great base from which to explore the region. We had dinner with Amy, a theatre acquaintance of mine, now a representative in the Maine government, I explored the second hand stores in town and found great deals, we hiked Acadia (which Ted told you about), visited the historical society and the art museum, and attended a warm and friendly church, St. Patrick’s Episcopal. It was a delightful visit. 

Amy is a fine actress & powerful representative, and knows good restaurants!

General Joshua Chamberlain, a professor & general in the Union Army, one of Ted's heroes

We headed next to Rumford, mostly to get our Appalachian Trail hikes in. The first, to Dunn’s Falls, was gorgeous, the river falls running hard with the recent rains. The second, to the Table Rock Loop, was a bit wilder. We had no idea it was full of boulders we’d need to climb over, practically straight up. Reaching the top, though, we’d have to say the view was well worth it. The return down the other side of the mountain was much simpler! 

Adding another state to our AT hikes

Dunn's Falls was beautiful and peaceful

Then came the Table Rock hike

Climbing the ladder, only to face more boulders

I'm afraid of heights, but Ted stood close enough to the edge to get a great photo

Another Maine AT hike in the books

Although we left from there to head into Canada, I have to add a side trip into Vermont to visit a friend I’ve known from Zoom Bible Study for five years. Deb and I had never met in person, and over lobster rolls (of course!) I learned so much more about her life of travel and teaching and family! And—in a wild coincidence— she went to church with Ted’s step-grandmother’s family! Feels like she’s family through marriage! We had so much fun we forgot to take a photo--but it really did happen.

And so we continue our trip into Canada…

Acadia National Park

 Ted. For our visit to Maine, we booked an Airbnb in the Bangor area so we could explore a bit of the midcoast region which includes Acadia National Park. 

Acadia was the first national park east of the Mississippi and now welcomes over 4 million visitors ever year! The name is an homage to the 17th century French colony of Acadia which included this region. The park consists of a collection of islands and a portion of the mainland. 

On our first visit, we drove to Mount Desert Island and hopped on a bus which is the easiest way to get around since the parking lots were jam packed. I took some photos from the bus because it was standing room only and there were lines to get back on.

Getting off at Jordan Pond, we were able to escape the throngs by walking the 4 mile loop along its shores.

Rested and refreshed, we chose to skip the crowds at Bar Harbor and made our way back to Bangor for a chilled beverage.

A couple of days later we drove to Schoodic Point on the mainland part of the park. It was immediately obvious that few people were interested in driving all that way so we just about had the park all to ourselves.

Everywhere we went in Acadia was spectacular but I bet you can guess which part of the park we preferred.  

Visiting nieces

Ted. One of the goals of our road trip to the Northeastern US was to visit three of our nieces. Becky lives in Maryland and we’ll report on her after our meetup in July. However, our first stop after leaving Philadelphia, was Manchester, New Hampshire, home to Ashley. 

After a quick house tour, we piled back into our truck and followed Ashley and her two children a bit further north to their lake house. 

We made the most of a brief overnight stay, grilling out on the deck for dinner and touring the beautiful lake in their boat the next day. 

Ashley and her husband, Peter were gracious hosts and we were charmed by their daughter, Despina, and son, Demetrios, whom we had not seen in two years. In case you haven’t guessed, Peter is of Greek descent. 

From the lake, we drove back south a bit to Wilmington, Massachusetts to spend the weekend with Kelly and her husband, Stephen. This is definitely a boy home and we were embraced by their sons, Henry and Theo and big pup, Logan. 

I was able to attend the boys martial arts and ninja training and we all stopped by the Sunday farmers market. We also played board games and got caught up on everyone’s jobs and activities. 

The boys loved Raymond the Truck!

All too quickly, it was time for farewell hugs and we headed back north for new adventures in Maine.