The Appalachian Trail

Ted. This legendary 2,400 mile hiking trail meanders through the Appalachian Mountains from Springer Mountain, Georgia to Mt Katahdin, Maine passing through some of the most beautiful regions of the Eastern US.

Over the years, Judy and I have taken many day hikes along stretches of the trail in Georgia, North Carolina and Tennessee. 

2019 - Charlie's Bunion, TN

At some point we came up with the notion of taking at least one day hike in each of the 14 states through which the trail passes. 

Five years ago we took a road trip to Pennsylvania to visit our friend, Vishal and that was when we took some of the first steps (literally) towards achieving our goal. 

2021 - Grayson Highlands, VA

At one point on that journey, we spent a month in Frederick, Maryland. This beautiful town lies strategically near the AT as it passes from Virginia to West Virginia to Maryland and then into Pennsylvania. During that stay, we got to know Ian and Cari who were Servas hosts and hikers with three great kids. 

2021 - Weverton Cliffs above Potomac, MD

By the end of that trip, we had hiked a small portion of the southern seven states. 

On this road trip, We were able to take at least one day hike in each of the seven northern states. 

One shouldn't generalize about an entire state's trails based on a day hike but it sure seems like the northern states are tougher with lots of rocks and steep trails. Apparently, northerners don’t believe in switchbacks. Rather than slowly zig zagging up a mountain, the trails always seemed to shoot straight up. 

2026 - Mombasha, NY

However, the AT was remarkably consistent in several ways. The trail was invariably well marked and easy to follow and the folks we met were always friendly. 

Since we started in Maine and worked our way south to New Jersey, we didn’t run into any thru hikers (folks walking from Georgia to Maine) until we got to Massachusetts. But then we saw plenty. We also met a number of section hikers. These people break the trail up into sections of several hundred miles and walk one of them each year until they have eventually hiked the entire trail. They all have a trail name which they proudly tell us.

"Romper" hails from Georgia

L to R, "Speed Bump," "Avalanche" & "Captain"

The Appalachian Trail is world famous for a reason. It’s sheer length makes it daunting. It is also a great way for visitors from other countries to learn about the America. Most hikers are young Americans and this often gives them a good look at their own country. 

"Angel"

In the end, though, whether one hikes the entire trail, a multi-day section, or a simple day trip, there is always a wonderful sense of accomplishment. “Hey - I can do whatever I set my mind to!” And in this time of great frustration, that feeling is especially important.

2026 - Annapolis Rock, MD

We love a rendezvous!

Ted. Judy and I have had the good fortune to meet an incredible number of wonderful people around world. Occasionally we really “click” with someone. When that happens, we make a quiet vow to ourselves to try to reconnect with them at some point in the future. Don’t ever tell us, “Come see us sometime!” if you don’t mean it because we might just show up on your doorstep one day. 

When we left the Hudson Valley in New York, we drove to Frederick, Maryland, home to Ian and Cari. We had gotten to know them, as well as their three teenagers, five years early when we spent some time in the area for hiking and exploration. 

Our reunion was everything we hoped it would be. Their three children updated us on their lives, Cari and Judy had lots of long talks and Ian and I did a bit of hiking. 

During our stay in Frederick, we took some time to drive to Columbia, MD for a lunch with another niece, Becky and her husband and son. We had a wonderful, extended lunch catching up on everything in their lives. 

From Frederick, we drove on to Richmond, Virginia, home of Doug and Laurie. The four of us first met in Bermeo, Spain three years ago. Though we only spent 24 hours together at that time, we departed with hope that a reunion would occur one day. Having enjoyed their hospitality for two days, we now feel like we really strengthened those earlier ties. 

We also made the short jaunt from Richmond to Williamsburg, VA so we could have a lunch with Matt, the son of a friend of Judy’s and Matt’s wife. 

Leaving Richmond, we drove to North Carolina and were able to reconnect with two folks we had known for decades; Faith, who lives alone in Madison and Brad, who lives with his wife in Monroe (funny - two Presidents). 

By my count, that makes around 30 friends and family with whom we shared a meal or two on this two month trip. Now that’s what we call fun!

America's Birthday, Part 2

Judy. I’ve never spent much time in New England or the Mid-Atlantic states, so I was surprised and delighted to discover the authenticity of the towns and cities here. I’m so used to towns looking just like any other—I could be in Atlanta or Denver, and, unless I saw the signs, or spent more than a few days there, wouldn’t know for sure just where I was. The plethora of big-box stores and restaurants makes all those towns seem alike. 

But here in the Northeast, cities seem to celebrate their own individuality. Mom and Pop restaurants, home-grown hardware stores, and patriotic bunting everywhere lead me to believe that this is the home of America’s grit. 

Foothills Restaurant in Sandwich in an 18th century house

As we’ve hiked portions of the Appalachian Trail, we see the massive stones that our forefathers and -mothers dug out of the ground to clear space for crops. The stone walls they built with those rocks still stand, even if some are crumbling a bit. This was no Utopia they came to. The work they put into making it their own was overwhelming to me. They must have really wanted to come here. 

Remnants of a once-thriving village in New York. Rocks pulled out of the ground.

How did they survive this rocky ground?

The South, where I grew up and live, has a different vibe. My ancestors, escaping religious persecution, had warm weather and months to build (in many cases, with enslaved peoples) their homes. Buildings are bigger, more sprawling, and I love that. 

This old general store really is old and general

Burlington, VT, has retained much of its charm

But the Yankee fortitude as seen in the tight, small houses tell me the winters were harsher than mine, and that the stones not dug by autumn would be waiting in spring. The flags and bunting here have a different meaning. Nothing political, just a proud celebration of 250 years in the making of a young country. We may be still figuring everything out, but the fortitude I see here stands strong and brave.

Banners like this were everywhere.

America's Birthday, Part 1

Judy. Like so many people, I had mixed emotions about celebrating Amerca’s 250th birthday. Our country is so divided now, and the stress of returning from visiting abroad is often difficult for us. 

I’m also a cynic about FIFA. It’s a corrupt football (soccer) organization at best, and the way they jacked the ticket prices for this series of matches was just lousy. I decided I’d boycott the whole thing. 

Then, while we were in Boston, the Tartan Army came over to celebrate the Scottish team, putting traffic cones on the heads of statues, drinking Boston dry, playing the pipes at any given moment at any given place, and being truly wonderful tourists. 

George gets a cone in Boston

Lawrence, Kansas, hosting the Algerian team, greeted their arrival wearing green shirts (team color) and singing their national anthem. 

Some guy named Fred from Germany posted about the wonders of all foods American—soda refills, huge portions, and ranch dressing, for crying out loud. Folks were packing bottles in their suitcases to return home. 

Buc-ee’s, Waffle House, Costco, and Walmart, businesses I’m not usually fond of, were sought after and celebrated. 

Americans took photos with, drank with, and talked with fans who were delighted to be here. 

We found ourselves in sports bars all along the East Coast, cheering on our teams with people we’ve never met. 

Yeah, there were some issues, and FIFA is still corrupt, but what I’ll always remember is that the world embraced us, and we, the world. Political junk took a back seat. And for the first time in years I am really proud of my country. 

Happy 250th, America.

On the Bed & Breakfast Trail

Ted. On our road trip Judy and I have stayed in hotels and Airbnbs and in the homes of friends and family. Now we decided to try a different style of accommodation: traditional bed & breakfasts. It seems to me that their popularity has diminished in the Western and Southern US,  but they appear to be flourishing in the Northeast. We enjoy bed & breakfasts because they are typically family-run establishments with less than ten rooms. One gets to visit with the innkeepers as well as other guests, and there are often good stories about the property. They are a bit pricier than hotels but often more comfortable. And of course, the breakfasts are often superb. 

On leaving Lake Sunapee, we traveled south to the Berkshire Mountains of Western Massachusetts. This is a beautiful area with lots of well-preserved old towns. 

Wilder House B&B, Sheffield, MA

Our inn was very near the Appalachian Trail where it crosses East Mountain. 

A tricky bit

The Housatonic Valley

NY's Catskills in the distance

After a relaxing stay with good breakfasts and nice folks, we drove south following the Housatonic River for a while on our way to New York’s fabled Hudson Valley. Along the way we took two short AT hikes. In Connecticut, we strolled along a gentle path from a covered bridge called Bulls Bridge to the point where the Tenmile River enters the Housatonic. 

Housatonic River

Our next stop was at the Bear Mountain Bridge in Garrison, NY. This is where the Appalachian Trail crosses the Hudson so we were able to walk the AT across that famous river. 

Getting back into our faithful truck, Raymond, it was a short drive to another gem of a B&B. The rooms were museum-like and the grounds were beautifully landscaped. 

The Inn at Stony Creek, Warwick, NY

This location also served as a base to take two more hikes on the AT. First up was the Mombasha View Point hike. 

Fitzgerald Falls were pretty pitiful

We finally encountered thru hikers who had started in Georgia

Indian (Ghost) Pipes are a rare sighting

Canadian wildfire smoke partially obscured the view

We then made the short drive across the state line to New Jersey to stroll the Pochuck Boardwalk, the longest elevated boardwalk on the AT (making it wheelchair accessible). Unlike the boardwalk in Atlantic City, this one crosses one of the largest wetlands on the trail. Yes, we needed mosquito spray, but the walk was nice and flat.

The blaze is familiar, not the boardwalk

The smoke was getting worse

This was a birder's paradise