Granada

Ted. It’s hard to believe, but in all my trips to Spain, I had never visited Granada, one of the most famous cities in the country. Judy went there a number of years ago but I kept putting it off. A newly completed high speed train from Málaga took away my last excuse so off we went for a day trip to the home of the legendary Alhambra. 

View of Granada from the Alhambra

From the train station, we strolled just a short distance to the Basílica de San Juan de Dios, built to house the remains of Saint John of God. He was apparently a great person (thus the sainthood) who founded a hospital in Granada. It was Spanish Baroque which was gaudy beyond belief but that’s what they do in churches here. 

Altar

Reliquary

Our next stop was that fabled palace complex, the Alhambra. There is tons of information on the internet about this place so I’ll just include a couple of snapshots of the walls, the gardens and the incredible Nasrid palaces. 

After touring the grounds, we took a taxi across town to Plaza de San Nicolás where one gazes back across the Darro Valley for iconic views of the Alhambra. We were even able to see mighty Mulhacén. Named after the penultimate Sultan of Granada, it rises over 11,000 feet making the highest mountain on the Iberian Peninsula. 

Mulhacén is the peak at the left

I’m not sure I’ll rush back, but the Alhambra is sort of like the Palace of Versailles; everyone should see it once before they die.

Grocery shopping in Málaga

Ted. Judy and I usually cook most of our meals wherever we live. We like to eat out once or twice a week but that’s more expensive (and less healthy). It's not as exotic as a trip to Marrakesh but I thought it might be interesting to hear what a typical shopping day is like.

It's about a four block walk to our local grocery which is part of a chain called Mercadona. Ours doesn't have a parking lot since it caters to those who walk or use public transportation. There are bigger stores on the outskirts of town that have parking lots and a larger selection but one needs a car to get there. 

The same man can be found standing out front every morning. He’s sort of a greeter/panhandler and always has a bright smile and kind words for folks coming and going. He holds a tip jar in his hand and seems well pleased when someone drops a coin in it. If a lady comes out and has to carry her bags to a car up the street, he helps her and is usually rewarded. He’s a part of the neighborhood so I give him one euro every Wednesday. As the Steve McQueen character was told repeatedly in the film, The Sand Pebbles, “It’s his rice bowl!” 

On entering the store, folks park their trolleys on the right (used for the walk home) and get an in store shopping cart. 

The selection is limited but quality and freshness are good.

Cereals

Some milk & drinks are refrigerated, most are preserved (fridges are tiny)

Eggs (they're only refrigerated in the US)

One of 3 produce aisles. Carts are parked in the center

They love their jamon here!

Only Spanish wines, $2.00 - $8.00/750 ml bottle

Just 1/2 of the fresh seafood counter!

One of 2 meat aisles. Note the fresh rabbit! Steak is about $10/lb

So, what did our bag of groceries cost today? This is what we bought. I converted the unit prices to US dollars and standard US weight or volume so you can compare with your local prices. Also, tax is included (even on alcohol). 

1 liter, milk ($4.25/gal)                     $ 1.00 

1 baguette:                                                0.65 

1 liter, yogurt ($1.25/qt)                      1.30 

1/2 liter fresh soup ($2.25/pt            2.30 

500g, granola ($2,25/lb)                      2.50 

250g, deli ham ($5.40/lb)                    3.00 

250g, Manchego cheese ($3.70/lb)   2.00 

1 liter, fresh gazpacho ($3.00/qt)      3.10 

250g, fresh ravioli ($4.35/lb)             2.40 

250g, butter ($3.70/lb)                        2.00 

1 head of romaine lettuce                    1.25 

6 eggs ($3.40/dozen)                            1.70 

1 green pepper ($1.20/lb)                   0.30 

6 bananas ($0.65/lb)                             1.30 

                                      Total cost  $US 24.80

Return to Marakkesh--or Marrakech, if you're French

 Judy. When last we were in Morocco (see archived blogposts November 13, 2018), I became friends with our riad owners, Sam and Youness. Over the years, Samara and I have texted and called and developed our friendship, so when she asked me to come back for a visit, I hopped on Ryan Air with my overnight bag and headed back to Riad Romance.

Sam and me

Arrival in Marrakech is a good test of patience. Again, I waited in the passport line (but this time for only 45 minutes!), put my little bag on the customs x-ray, and headed out to find my driver, who'd been waiting, maybe not so patiently.

I'd forgotten how beautiful the roads are in the new part of the city--palm trees lit up, flashing lights along the lanes--it almost made up for the insanity of the traffic! I have utmost respect for anyone who drives in that town, and even more as they turn into the gates of the medina, careening down narrow streets and dodging motorbikes, bicycles, pedestrians, and other cars. I felt like I was in a bumper-car ride at the fair! But we finally pulled into the alley, ducked through the doorway into the walkway and rang the doorbell at Riad Romance.

Courtyard and breakfast room at Riad Romance

And then it felt like home.  Sam was unable to be there to welcome me, so she'd had Latifa make a lemon chicken tagine for my dinner, after which the young Youness showed me to my room. Tired, full, and comfortable, I went right to sleep.

Breakfast for one!

After a huge breakfast, Sam arrived, took care of some business, and took me for a walk through the souk to Jemma el F'na, the main square. 

The square was still crazy, but not as crowded as it had been five years ago. The pandemic and earthquake have taken a bit of a toll on the tourism here, but I was assured that it's coming back. There were only two snake charmers, and no bands or twirling hats. It was clean and beautiful, though, and we walked around, catching up until lunchtime. 

Entrance to the souk from Jemma el F'na

Pastries at a shop

Part of the souk

Bringing supplies to repair earthquake damage

Youness, Sam's business partner at the riad, also is part owner of a restaurant, Terrasse la Medersa. Fabulous food for a ridiculously low price--chicken couscous with vegetables for about $5, and I couldn't eat it all. Afterwards we sat and talked to Youness and his restaurant partner Achmed. After berating me for not bringing Ted, Youness bought our lunch. 

Youness (L) and his restaurant partner, Achmed

By this time it was hot, so we headed back to the riad for a rest and for Sam to take care of some business. That evening she took me to the New City for dinner at a traditional restaurant. The food was delicious, and the juices we drank were even better. I picked up the bill for the two of us: 120 MAD, about $12. And I still couldn't eat all my food!

The next morning Sam wasn't feeling well, so I was on my own. I needed to use the ATM, but was not comfortable as a lone female going alone, so Neil and Marnie, an Australian couple, offered to walk with me.

Passing some earthquake damage 

Neil and Marnie, lifesavers!

Are you kidding me???

Boy, did we get lost. I think we passed the same pottery stand four times, and laughed harder each time we did. At one point I saw a sign "RIAD ESCAPE ROOM" Shoot! We were in our own escape room just trying to get out of the medina!

When we finally found our way, Neil and Marnie stayed with me while I took out some dirhams, then offered to buy me something cold to drink. Since alcohol is hard to find here, Moroccans make incredible juices and smoothies, perfect for the heat there. From there we ducked back to the Terrasse for lunch, and then crashed for siesta.

In the past few years, a 16th century madrassa, or school, has been restored. It was quite a famous school, and the restoration is absolutely stunning. I spent an hour or so just wandering through its cool rooms, marveling at the pools, student dorms, study rooms, and prayer rooms.

Courtyard

"Dorm rooms"

Sam felt better, so she, Neil, Marnie, and I headed back to the Terrasse for dinner. (Yes, the restaurant is that good.) We sat on the roof, enjoying the cool breeze. My lamb skewers and vegetables and eggplant salad were excellent. I'll miss that place.

The next morning was my last. I took one last walk into the souks, and as I stepped alone into the first narrow street on the way, a woman my age, dressed with headscarf and a veil over her face, came toward me. I wished her "Bonjour", and she stopped, placed her hands in prayer and bowed to me. I repeated her gesture and smiled. She reached out her hand to me, and I took it in both of mine and our eyes met. She pulled back her hand and blew me a kiss, then walked on. With all the conflict in the world,  nothing could have moved me more than that brief moment of human contact. That, my friends, is why we travel.

We left a little early for the airport so we could stop for a coffee and catch up on the way, then headed on. Sam asked about American singers I like, and I introduced her to Paul Simon. We rocked our drive to "Diamonds on the Soles of Her Shoes."

Heading to the airport

I feel so honored to have met so many beautiful people around the world. How blessed am I that a visit to a riad five years ago would bring about a strong friendship for two people with lives so very different, yet beliefs so much the same. 

Marrakech and Samara. Great combo.

San Sebastián

Ted. After a beautiful, yet tiring drive, it was good to arrive at our hotel on the outskirts of famous San Sebastián (Donostia in Euskara, the language of the Basque people). We stayed at a lovely place that had been owned by the same family for nearly 100 years. "Leku Eder" means "beautiful place" in Euskara.

Right on the northern route of the Camino de Santiago

You can just make out our hotel in the gap on the left

Though half the size of Bilbao, San Sebastián is certainly the most well known city in the Basque Country. It doesn’t have as much documented history as many other towns in Spain; no Roman ruins for instance. Seized by Napoleon in 1808 it was burnt to the ground by the Brits in 1813. So, what exists today largely dates back to 1863 when the Spanish royals began to visit on summer retreats and encouraged its development as Spain’s answer to Biarritz, the iconic Belle Époque resort in the French Basque Country.

The attraction has always been its splendid, curved beach. Largely enclosed, it had virtually no surf so was ideal for people who were exploring the new fad of sea bathing.

"La Concha" (the Seashell)

Today, it still seems to be a popular destination for well to do young people. Walking around the beach on the sidewalk we heard as much American English as we typically hear in Barcelona. 

A high point for us was the fascinating San Telmo Museum which focuses on Basque culture and history. We learned a lot about this obscure people. After our visit, we had a delightful lunch at the attached Zazpi Cafe. 

Museum on the left, cafe on the right - perfect!

The museum repurposed an old convent

Funeral stella adopted by the local Christians

Local wine is the reward for learning so much

On our last day, we drove to Hondarribia (Fuenterrabia in Spanish). Built on the west bank of the Bidasoa River where it empties into the Bay of Biscay, one can look right across the river at Hendaye, a Basque city in France. Due to its strategic location, Hondarribia has always been fortified, fought over, and wealthy. We found it to be a delightful last stop before driving back to Bilbao airport for our return to Málaga. 

What will I remember from our brief foray to the Basque Country? Green hills, rugged coast, warm smiles and that “tx” in Euskara is pronounced as a “ch.” For example, consider those lovely delicacies - pintxos.

Remember, it's pronounced "pinchos!"