As he’s done before, Ted found us a gorgeous and comfortable hotel on the last stop of the metro line. With so many festivals in the city, a stay in Laval (with a 25-minute ride in) was less expensive and quieter. Hôtel St-Martin was charming, with a yummy breakfast spread and lovely outdoor seating.
Our first day we walked to a nearby coffee shop to meet Dan and Alison, acquaintances from our hikes in Oaxaca, Mexico. They were heading to their mountain cabin, and we made arrangements to meet later in the week.
From there we took the metro into the city for a warm reunion with Sylvie and Gilles. We got to know them on our first transatlantic cruise, and had met up again in Chile when a cruise took them to La Serena. They took us on a tour first of Vieux Montréal, around the port, past the Cathedral, to several art galleries, and to Place Jacques-Cartier, where we had lunch and caught up. Then Gilles insisted we see “underground Montréal,” the series of passages that weave around the business area of the city. One could walk for miles and never get out in the heat or the cold.
The next day we drove to St-Eustache for—wait for it—a famous flea market! Since we have a truck, we were able to buy a couple of things we wanted for the apartment, at much lower prices. And we had a heckuva good time!
The Musée de Beaux Artes was next, and a lovely surprise. Of course we looked for, and found, a couple of Emily Carr paintings, as well as a plethora of Indigenous People’s artworks.
Finally, we went to a Richard Avedon exhibit of portraits on aging, which was absolutely stunning.
We saved the Archeological Museum for the following day. What an encyclopedia that was! It encompasses three buildings, and begins on the spot Montreal was founded. Ruins of early houses, models and videos about the establishment and growth of the city, and even a walk through an old sewer to an exhibit honoring the original French habitants, gave a clear sense of its importance.
Montréal is hosting its famous jazz festival this month, and the lineup is a who’s who of important musicians, some of whom I’d love to stay and see. We did catch a lovely street performance of a young group of students, Couleurs Cazz, which we enjoyed before heading to meet Dan and Alison for dinner and more conversation.
It was a great visit, but the Laurentian Mountains were calling, so we bid a fond adieu to a lovely (still warm, but not as hot as our last visit), exciting city.











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