Journeys with Jos and Mia

Ted. Let me begin by explaining about Servas one more time since some folks who read this may not understand my reference. In 1982, Judy and I joined Servas (see servas.org) which is an international home stay organization. Their slogan is “World peace, one conversation at a time.” The concept is that Servas travelers can enjoy a visit of up to two nights in the home of Servas hosts at no cost. Safety is assured because all members are vetted by Servas interviewers. Why do people join? Simply to meet others and exchange ideas about the world. It is incredible the number of misconceptions we all have about each other and simple chats can be very enlightening. 

Originally, we were both hosts and travelers but for the past eight years we have been only travelers. Occasionally we enjoy meeting members for a second or third time as is the case with our Swedish friend, Mikaela. 

Jos and Mia are a wonderful Belgian couple who visited Judy and me in Georgia more than 25 years ago. Having kept in touch all of this time, we always hoped to have a reunion in Belgium. Well, that day finally arrived and they were excited to show us a bit of Flanders, the Dutch speaking part of Belgium that they know so well. 

For our first day trip, we met up at the old university town of Leuven, a 30 minute train ride from Brussels. After picking us up in their car, we headed out to the small town of Heverlee. For lunch, we visited one of their favorite restaurants. I enjoyed witloof (Belgian endive) which had been wrapped in ham and baked in a cheese sauce. We then visited the Heverlee’s Sacred Heart Institute, a Catholic school serving 7,000 students from kindergarten through 12th grade. Built in 1930 it is famous for The Message Chapel. I took a couple of snapshots but you can follow this link if you are curious: https://www.flemishmastersinsitu.com/en/locaties/boodschapkapel-heverlee. 

Presence candle

A week later, we took another train to rendezvous with Jos and Mia at the famous seaside resort of Ostend. We hopped in their car again and were driven to a wonderful seafood restaurant on the beach. 

More mussels - a typical serving is one kilogram!

From there, we drove inland to the small town of Vladslo to learn about a bit of Flemish history. As you may know, a great deal of fighting took place in Belgium during WWII and especially WWI. Vladslo is home to a German military cemetery containing the remains of over 25,000 WWI soldiers, including the son of a famous German artist named Käthe Kollwitz. 

Each marker has 20 names

In remembrance, Kollwitz created two statues representing the parents of all the sons lying there. 

This was not the end of our remembrance journey. We then visited Ypres, a city that was absolutely flattened during WWI but has been fully restored. 

We stopped for a refreshment in town and I had a beer thought by Jos, and many others to be one of the best in the world. It was rather tasty. 

St Bernardus Abt 12

Two major engagements were fought in and around Ypres and some historians include three more nearby battles. Between the five, the total casualties from both sides exceeds one million men and many cemeteries are scattered around the countryside. 

As the sun started to set, we gathered, with many others, at the Menin Gate. This large archway lists the 95,000 British Commonwealth soldiers who died but for whom no remains were ever found. Since 1927 (except during German occupation), the local folks have held a ceremony during which buglers play “Last Post,” a British end of day call. 

This was a fitting end to our exploration of Flanders and the four of us were very quiet during the ride back to Brussels and an end to our journeys with our friends. 

In 1915, John McCrae, a Canadian physician and soldier wrote a poem that could describe battlefields the world over. To this day, many citizens of the Commonwealth nations wear poppies on Armistice Day, lest they forget. 

In Flanders Fields

In Flanders fields the poppies grow 

Between the crosses, row on row, 

That mark our place; and in the sky

The larks, still bravely singing, fly

Scarce heard amid the guns below. 

We are the Dead. Short days ago

We lived, felt dawn, saw sunset glow,

Loved and were loved, and now we lie,

In Flanders fields. 

Take up our quarrel with the foe:

To you from failing hands we throw

The torch: be yours to hold it high. 

If ye break faith with us who die 

We shall not sleep, though poppies grow 

In Flanders fields.