Judy on Istanbul

 

Judy. Ted’s mom had a great saying when we disagreed about something: “Well, that’s why there’s chocolate and vanilla!” 

So Ted and I are a bit chocolate and vanilla about Istanbul. I loved it. My only issue was the 1-hour drive from the airport into the city. Not my favorite part of the trip. But I would go back in a heartbeat! 

Our friend Ben told us we needed at least a week to see it, and I think he was right, but to Ted’s point, it was hot and crowded, so we caught the high points, which absolutely wowed me. 

To begin with, Ramezan, the aide at our hotel, treated us like his treasured parents, and really pushed me to speak Turkish. I could answer in one or two words, but he’d push me to say the whole sentence. (He even referred to us as "Mamo & Bobo".)

with Ramezan

 Our hotel itself was reasonable, including a delicious breakfast, as well as tea or coffee in the afternoon in the garden or the salon. At breakfast we marveled at the Blue Mosque and enjoyed watching the mama seagull and her baby on the roof across the street. Whenever you left or returned, there was a bottle of a lemon cologne to refresh yourselves. Actually, they were in shops and restaurants, too!

The other half--across the Bosporus

Green parks

The history of the city and the views of the Bosporus and the Sea of Marmara (shades of performing in Medea and hearing those terms over and over) really gave me a sense of why it’s the crossroads of the world. I was blown away by the Hagia Sophia, its history, and the deep respect of those who are now the guardians. Hidden in corners and behind sheets are ancient Christian murals, although it is now a mosque. 

Hagia Sophia at night

Christian mural at the entrance, and Jesus mural behind a sheet

Christian and Muslim iconography

Walking through the Hippodrome and seeing sculptures still standing gave me a sense of awe. Even the constant hawking by vendors became a background noise or a chance to pull out old improvisation skills. The closest I’ve come to feeling this way about a city was when I was in Jerusalem. 

We missed seeing the Whirling Dervishes, but one afternoon we saw one in the street!

Gentle reminder

Most of all, I loved watching the people, particularly the women. We saw bridal couples posing in front of Hagia Sophia. There were women in shorts, in full burkas, and everywhere in between. How could they not sweat their eyeballs out in that heat? But they were cool as cucumbers. For the first few evenings, I’d just walk up to the plaza to see them. Nobody hassled anybody. Everyone just enjoyed. 

 On our last day we sat in the park by the Topkapi Palace for awhile. Two young women from the high school came up to us and timidly asked, “May we ask you some questions?” Ah! English class! We had a great chat, and then they asked if we could have a selfie—a word that translates in any language. 

A lovely English lesson

It was the perfect end to a short, challenging, and really beautiful stay.