Wednesday, September 23, 2020

Gates of the Mountains

Ted. On July 19, 1805 the Lewis & Clark expedition entered a spectacular stretch of the Missouri River about 25 miles north of present day Helena, where we currently reside. At days end, Meriwether Lewis made the following entry in his journal, “...those rocks put in close to the river on both sides, are perpendicular and about 1200 feet high, this place has so singular an appearance that I call it the gates of the rocky mountains.” 



This part of the Helena-Lewis and Clark National Forest is now called the Gates of the Mountains Wilderness area and is still only accessible by boat. For the last 125 years, tour boats have taken visitors along this famous stretch of river. On a day that we deemed too smoky to hike, Judy and I decided to take the 2-hour tour. Our boat had a capacity of around 100 people, which allowed the 35 or so passengers to have plenty of social distancing. I have to admit that riding in a boat is certainly easier than hiking through a canyon. 

Our guide, Tim, began by identifying several species of waterfowl including the first loon that we had ever seen. A hush came over the crowd as we approached those formidable cliffs. 



Much of the rock in the Helena area is ancient basalt but the cliffs in this canyon are limestone; much younger, lighter colored and full of fossils.  While we couldn't see those from our boat, we did see some pictographs on one cliff. Scientists believe that people painted the figures using red ochre about 1,500 years ago. We also saw a fair amount of wildlife along the way.

One of 3 bald eagles we spotted


Young bighorn sheep at a salt lick



Last year, while touring the Missoula Smokejumper Visitor Center, we learned about of the Mann Gulch Fire. In 1949, 15 smokejumpers parachuted into Mann Gulch to put out a fire but only 3 of them made it out alive. The tragedy was the basis for Norman Maclean’s book, Young Men and Fire as well as the 1952 film Red Skies of Montana. Well, unbeknownst to us, Mann Gulch is in Gates of the Mountains and we passed right by the spot where those brave young men lost their lives. 




With so much history and beauty in a small area this proved to be another gem of the Treasure State.



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