Helena

Judy. When we found out that we couldn’t stay in Missoula for a second month, we began a search for where we COULD stay. We’d visited several towns on the way to Missoula, but none really captured our attention. So one day we drove to Helena--and decided to come here. 

 For one thing, it’s charming. The neighborhood we were looking at is beautiful and, although hilly, walkable. A block from the Airbnb are several paths up Mt. Helena.

  

 Last Chance Gulch, the downtown area, is within walking distance, and has both a Bridge Pizza and Big Dipper Ice Cream, both of which we enjoyed in Missoula. The day we left Spokane, the smoke followed us almost as far as Missoula, and by the time we arrived in Helena, was gone. Hurrah! Hiking on the horizon! 

 But two days later, the smoke had caught up with us, where it sat for the next week. Time to look for some alternatives. The first day, we walked down to Last Chance Gulch, a mostly pedestrian mall with shops, restaurants, and craft breweries. (Montana supposedly has more craft breweries than any other state). Ted bought a beer at Ten Mile Brewery and sat on a bench sipping it while I explored. There’s lots of artwork along the mall, and the buildings have mostly been saved and restored. As you look up the hill to your left, you can see the magnificent St. Helena Catholic Cathedral, modeled after one in Austria. Many houses in the area are Victorian and magnificent—this town meant money! 

Gold money!

        

Old Governor's Mansion

 Of course it did. In the 1860’s, gold was discovered by the “Four “Georgians” (search that phrase on Wikipedia for the full story), and the town of Last Chance took shape, although the name was changed in a few months to Helena—Last Chance being far too crass a name. By 1888, it was the richest city in the world, and the homes show it. Helena, which is the state capitol, is fairly small: In the 2010 census, it had almost 29,000 residents, as opposed to Missoula’s approximately 74,500. Walking up Mt. Helena, you can see the entire township laid out before you. It’s a comfortable place to be, and a great hub from which to explore. So we did, trying to work around the good, moderate, and unhealthy days due to the smoke. 

From Mt. Helena on a smoky day

   

From Mr. Helena on a clear day

 Ted already told you about Gates of the Mountains, an experience we’ll not soon forget. Another day we drove north to Great Falls, which was a disappointment, and on up to Ft. Benton, which we enjoyed. While Stevensville claims to be the first settlement in Montana, Ft. Benton calls itself the first town, since it’s on the Missouri River, and was the port from which goods were taken along a myriad of trails to other parts of the territory. It’s also another “Lewis and Clark” stop. We ducked into a museum and saw Chief Joseph’s Winchester he used for his surrender. 

On a day when the air was moderate, we hiked the couple of miles up Mt. Helena. It’s a short distance, but there were no switchbacks, and the path straight up was tough! Still, it was great to see what view we could, with smoke still lingering. A week later, after it cleared, we climbed partway up—the difference was stunning. On Saturday it rained and we visited the Montana Historical Society Museum. What a delightful surprise. Cost is a minimal $5, and we spent hours exploring the state’s history from the earliest native peoples to present day. “Whiskey’s for drinking; water’s for fighting”—a story told all over the West. 

 Across the hall is a gallery of Charles Russell’s art. I knew of his Western works, but some of the best works were of his watercolors painted on letters to friends. 

Russell Christmas Card

 Of course, the best part is meeting people. Remember our dear friends Carolyn and Doug, who have lent us their house on many occasions? Carolyn contacted their nephew Stephen and his wife Allison who live here, and they met us in a park on a 48-degree morning with coffee and bagels and wonderful conversation about their lives here. Both work for Montana Fish, Wildlife and Parks, Allison with birds, Stephen, with fish and water. That’s where I learned how complicated water rights are. We could have talked to them all day, had they not had to go to work. Those are some folks I truly hope to meet again. 

Allison and Stephen, two of the coolest folks you'll meet

 Helena is just over the MacDonald Pass, where the Continental Divide runs. There is an unfinished trail, Mexico to Canada, called the Continental Divide Trail, and we decided to hike part of it. It was beautiful, although marred by trees killed by the Pine Bark Beetle, fallen, as a friend put it, like pickup sticks. The trail is easy, running across a ridge, but enough trees were still growing to keep us from any views. 

Beetle kill on Continental Divide Trail

Our last hike was to Refrigerator Canyon. It was an hour’s drive there, much of it on gravel roads through “towns” like Jimtown, Nelson, and York (which hosts a bar). The trailhead was hidden between two limestone mountains, and you had to walk up the stream through the notch between them. Once you came out the other side, you felt as though you had entered a secret garden! The trail took you gradually up switchbacks till you reached the top of the mountain with heart-stopping views down into the valley. We met no one on the trail until we were leaving through the notch. It’s one of our favorite hikes of all time. 

Entrance to Refrigerator Canyon

View from the top

 So—if we came back, where would we stay, Missoula or Helena? They are as different as apples and peaches. For day-to-day life and walkability to groceries, farmer’s markets, and quick hikes, Missoula, hands down. For history and rugged canyons, Helena. For a month, probably Missoula. For a couple of weeks, Helena. Good to know that both are here!