Arles--Romans and Vincent

Judy.  My daughter Leslie and I—along with much of the rest of the world--share a love of Vincent Van Gogh. So when Ted and I discovered that the city of Arles, where he painted so many of his works, was only an hour-and-a-half bus ride away, we plunked down our 1.5 euros and headed for a day in the city.

Arles actually has several claims to fame: home of Vincent, home of several remaining Roman structures, and part of a Roman Route for the Camino Santiago de Compostela, among others.

It’s fascinating to me that a town that thought so little of Van Gogh during his tortured lifetime should make a fortune off his memory. I guess that’s the way of artists unappreciated in their lifetimes. There are none of his paintings there, but there are “easels” with reproductions at various locations where he painted, and it’s fun to see what still exists, even if a limestone building that he saw as yellow in the evening light has now been painted yellow so you can’t miss it, or that a bridge has been reconstructed for tourists. I guess that sounds cynical, but actually I really enjoyed it, especially the view from a hill pointing out distant locations where he walked for

Garden of Hotel Dieu

inspiration. Another favorite spot was the garden of the hospital where he spent time. The colors of the garden are vibrantly obvious in the reproduction, and incredibly touching when you acknowledge his illness and the fear of the townspeople who demanded he be kept under lock and key. (The authorities finally allowed him to go off and paint in the daytime, and return to his hospital room at night.)

The city itself is charming, with old, winding streets and ivy-twined houses. It’s easy to see how he’d be inspired at every turn. On a sunny spring afternoon, you can see through his eyes to vibrant colors he loved.

There’s more, however, to this ancient town--as with so many here, it’s a Roman settlement, nestled on the Rhone River. Did we mention that the very name Provence came from the Romans? It was the first province outside Rome, and it still carries the name.

Part of what makes Arles different from other Roman settlements here is the preservation of a couple of its ancient buildings. The arena has been shored up and cleaned up, with metal risers inside, and it now hosts bullgames.  These, unlike the Spanish fights, involved pulling a ribbon from the horns of the bull. Every time the bull cleverly outwits the razeteur, the band plays the March of the Toreadors from Carmen.

Roman Arena

The ancient Roman Theatre is not as well preserved as the arena, but is one of the better examples I’ve seen, with the stage, seating, skenos, and voms clearly visible. (My former students will, I hope, forgive my not using all the proper terms.) It’s in a huge park, so the size is clearly visible, and in a nearby park you can see the ornate entrance.

View of the theatre

Entrance to the Theatre

Forum Square, home to the governmental body of the Romans here, did not fare as well. All that’s left now is two columns and a sea of café tables, including Café de la Nuit, of Van Gogh fame. It’s the one now painted yellow.

Café  de la Nuit

On our way to the Rhone, we noticed a sign for the Camino, here called the Chemin de Compostelle, and noticed several of the symbols as we wandered the town. It seems to be part of the same route that goes through Ventabren, and, we discovered, through Aix as well! 

Place de la République

St. Trophime

At the main square, the Place de la République, there is a huge obelisk that served as the center of the Roman Circus. It’s surrounded by lions, the symbol of Arles, I guess since Roman times. The square is dominated by the Mairie (City Hall—and we saw a wedding headed that way) and St. Trophime Church. The church has a magnificent main entrance and one of those interiors that makes you feel you’re in a deep forest. There is a reliquary chapel jam-packed with bones of saints, and Roman sarcophogii carved with Bible stories. This is one of those churches that spans centuries of building, and pilgrims on the Camino have been stopping there for over 800 years. A newer addition is a bulletin board with information for the pilgrims.

Pilgrim's info

A walk back to the river brought us in contact with a lovely mother and daughter, Jennifer and Gwen, from New Jersey. After our  experience with American tourists in

Gwen & Jennifer

Marseille, it was a real joy to talk to them and share travel stories. Jennifer was most insistent we visit Romania—good to hear, since it’s on our list! Wish we’d had more time with them.

Back to town for lunch at Les Filles du 16, (delicious but definitely at tourist prices) and a stop at Place de

Les Filles du 16

République for ice cream—violette for me. (Yes, the flower. Delicate flavor, and something I’ve never tried.) Then we plunked ourselves at an Irish pub by the bus stop and sipped wine and a Guinness till our return bus arrived.

Arles is well worth the visit. Given more time, I’d have wandered streets and alleys longer—there always seemed to be a surprise around the corner. There were several tour and school groups, but we were able to wander without interrupting them, or vice versa. An afternoon walk by the Rhone was delightful, and the site of the old Roman bridge really brought its age and importance into focus. There were several riverboat cruise ships docked by the river, so if you take a Rhone River cruise, it’s an easy step into town.