Saturday, April 28, 2018

Tucson and the Sonora Desert


Judy. We’ve been taking our 15-year-old grandson Parker traveling with us every other year since he was six years old. It has been eye opening for all three of us, and Ted and I love seeing the world through his eyes. So when five-year-old Cade began talking about his desire to see the Sonora Desert in Arizona, taking him there was a no-brainer.
Blooming cactus

To be honest, Cade’s interest stemmed from a YouTube video Ted showed him last year about jumping cholla, a cactus that, if you brush against it, even slightly, sticks to you. He was convinced that the plant could see you coming and send chunks of spiny cactus into you, and he really wanted to see that.

To say that he was excited is an understatement. The boy was obsessed, and so were we about taking him. We flew from London to Atlanta on a Monday, spent the night at an airport hotel, and the next day Leslie met us at the airport with Cade and his suitcase.

We arrived in Tucson at night, and Cade, who had slept most of the way, was ready. As we stepped outside the airport, he spotted several cacti lining the sidewalk and immediately began naming them. He was very clear we should avoid the jumping cholla.

Some background here:  We lived in Tucson, Arizona, for a couple of years in the early eighties. We truly loved the city, and were both working in jobs we enjoyed. The kids quickly learned about living in the desert, making sure to kick a rock before picking it up (to avoid scorpions), and when to get back into the house to avoid midday sun or sudden lightning strikes. We left to be near my family in the south, but were sure we’d return. This trip was a bit for us as well, even though Cade’s dreams were high priority this time.

Time zones and jet lag woke us each morning about five—just as well, since temps were already in the nineties in April!

On our first morning, after an hour or so of exploring the desert behind our hotel, we rented a car and drove to the Sonora Desert Museum, a great orientation to the life present here. If you EVER come near Tucson, it is a must. Our kids loved it in the eighties and it’s even better now. Well-trained docents are everywhere, some holding
Blooming palo verde
birds or snakes and talking about them, others poised near exhibits to explain desert plants and survival. There are animals from bobcats to river otters to stingrays, as the Sonora Desert encompasses a vast territory in southern Arizona, Baja California, and well into Mexico. Cacti, succulents, and desert trees have their own exhibits. You can
Boy and blooms
stay on close trails that lead to exhibits, or take a longer trail through a small portion of the desert. However much you do, you’ll know and respect more about the desert than you did when you arrived.

Next stop was Aqui Con el Nene (Here With the Baby), a funky and delicious restaurant on the south side of town, known for their Sonora hot dog. Seems that Tucson has been named a UNESCO World City of Gastronomy (first in the country) and one of the recognized foods is the Sonora hot dog, a hot dog wrapped in bacon, on a bolillo with beans, tomatoes, melted cheese, and who knows what else. Not a thing that’s good for you, but absolutely delicious. Ted ate two. Cade stuck with cheese quesadillas.

After all that, it was time for the pool and a nap. And that was the end of day one.

The second day we left early for the Saguaro National Park, and were able to get in a short walk around a “discovery trail” and a very brief hike up the Hugh Norris Trail, where Cade experimented with jumping cholla (no 5-year-olds OR cacti were hurt in this experiment), we explored rocks and saguaro, and I spotted a scorpion. We also
Beautiful desert lizard
heard absolutely beautiful bird songs as well as the buzzing of thousands of bees in the blooms of the desert. It’s a true gift to be here in the spring when the cacti and trees are blooming. Saguaro blossoms are only open for 24 hours, during which time birds and bats feed on the blossoms and digest the seeds. There are few places as lovely as a desert in the spring.

On the way back, we stopped by my favorite place in Tucson, the Mission of San Xavier de Bac, known as the “White Dove of the Desert”. This mission was built for the Todono O’odham tribe in 1783, and is the oldest structure still standing in
San Xavier
Arizona. The beautiful Moorish-style building can be seen from miles away, and truly sits like a white bird in the brown desert. The interior is a fascinating combination of styles, and the statue of Mary is dressed in clothing reminiscent of the Todono O’odham styles, embroidered with the “Man in the Maze” symbol. This deeply spiritual Native American symbol, known world wide, was first discovered here.
Todono O'odham Virgin

In the plaza in front of the church are food stalls and a more permanent crafts market. No visit would be complete without Indian Fry Bread. Cade was not sure at all about that, but we ordered one with honey and one with powdered sugar. One bite. That’s all it took. He announced, “You didn’t tell me it had powdered sugar,” as he devoured his.
Fry bread

Back at the hotel, we took in an Arizona sunset. There is nothing in the world like it. The sky turns the most amazing vivid colors, then settles into a pink and lavender afterglow. We laughed at the Arizona flag when we first moved here thirty-some-odd years ago, till we saw our first sunset. Now it’s absolutely my favorite state flag.

On our final day, we rose early again, and headed to Sabino Canyon, a lush cut through the desert in the Coronado National Forest. At 8:30 AM, it was already hot, so we chose to ride the tram up the canyon and stop at one of the pools of water to play. When we arrived, there was no one else there, so Cade chased fish and we clambered over the rocks to find the hidden
Sabino Canyon
waterfall. This time of year there’s not much water in the canyon, just the leftover runoff from the snowmelt, but after the monsoon season, there will be a rushing river there. As the crowds arrived, we decided we were ready to move on and left for lunch.

Trip Advisor calls Baja Café the number one restaurant in Tucson. There are several of them now, all located in funky locations in strip malls. The one we visited was between a carpet store and a barbershop. It specializes in breakfast foods, especially the “benedicts”. My favorite on the menu is the “Welcome Home Benedict”, a huge breakfast that’s $15.99, unless you’re a returning soldier, in which case, it’s free.  I had the “Wyatt Earp” with a corn cake base, pulled pork and bacon, and a guacamole-type sauce over the poached eggs. Tasty, and too
Wyatt Earp
much. Ted had the “Anomaly 2.0”, whose base was a mac ‘n’ cheese waffle, with brisket and pulled pork, plus eggs. Cade stuck with the chocolate chip pancake, eggs and bacon. Because it’s our first visit, we were given a snickerdoodle pancake. As Cade said, “Oh, snap!”

One more spot remained to visit:  Mt. Lemmon. When we lived here years ago, Mt. Lemmon was our respite in the summer during monsoon season, when the heat was all but unbearable. At over 9,000 feet, it’s an oasis of pine trees and cool air, and the ride up affords views of hoodoos, rock formations, distant
Mountains and desert floor
mountains, and the desert floor. Once we arrived, Cade led us on a chase for adventures over dead trees, rocks and slippery pine straw. No surprise that he slept on the way home.

Mission accomplished. We returned to an area we really enjoyed, and Cade learned to love the Sonora Desert even more after he experienced it. On the day we went to Saguaro National Park, he said, “Guys, this is the best day!” He also announced he's moving here when he's ten.

They say you can’t go home again. In our drive past our old house and Ted’s plant, not much was recognizable. It all looked great, but different. Then again, it’s been a long time, and it is exciting to see this city, which we loved so much, grow, expand, and be recognized for its contribution to our country. No, it’s not the same, but it’s truly wonderful.






Thursday, April 26, 2018

Tiverton


Ted. Judy and I traveled to Europe this time via London because we had dreamed of visiting a little town in southwest England for many years.

Devonshire
Devon, famous for it’s picturesque villages, beautiful coastline and lonely moors, served as the setting for many famous literary works (The Hound of the Baskervilles and Sense and Sensibility to name two). 

Wild ponies on Dartmoor
Rugglestone Inn, Widecombe


St Pancras, Widecombe












St Peter's, Tiverton


Tiverton is a quaint old Devonshire market town, known for St. Peter’s Church, some charming pubs and an old canal with a horse drawn barge. It is also the current residence of some good friends of ours. Bill and Mary used to live near us in Georgia but several years ago, they retired and moved back to the land of Mary’s birth. We have always wanted to visit them in their new home so made a point of it on this trip.


Mary and Bill

Bill and Mary quite obviously love their new lives. Bill relishes his role as the town Yank and has become a prominent citizen serving his church and community in many ways. Mary has developed a passion for competitive long distance running. Their lovely daughter Kelley has married a fine young man named Joe and settled down nearby.

Our luck with the weather in Bristol continued as our hosts showed us around their magnificent corner of Devon. While London is one of the great cities of the world, one could make a strong case that small towns and villages constitute the “real England."

Tiverton horse drawn barge

Even though we had not seen them for years, Bill and Mary's warmth and hospitality reminded us that it is important to maintain those special relationships we have formed along life's journey. 



Bill with Ruby





Tuesday, April 24, 2018

Bristol fashion

Ted. We left Aix-en-Provence with a tear in our eyes on April 18. We loved the area, had made a lot of new acquaintances and had the nicest apartment that we had ever rented. But, it was time to lean into our journey once more. This time we were bound for England with sails firmly set. Our first stop was Bristol. Why you ask? Well, we wanted to experience a town that we knew nothing about. Lonely Planet raved about the place so we said, “Pourquoi pas?”

We were very lucky in that the first Servas hosts that we contacted, Tim and Roisin were available and interested in hosting us.
A rose between two thorns!
They were a wonderful couple and we learned a lot about their garden allotment, shared orchard and their community. We also compared notes on travel, the transition to retirement and grandchildren.
One of many garden plots at the allotments 










They led us on walking and driving tours of Bristol and nearby Clifton. The phrase “shipshape and Bristol fashion” dates back to the 18th century when this was the second busiest port in the UK. The town has a fascinating history so check it out on the internet if you like that sort of thing.

Floating Harbour

Replica of the Matthew that John Cabot sailed to Newfoundland in 1497













Bristol was where the engineer Isambard Kingdom Brunel hung his famous hat for many years. His designs are everywhere and include the Clifton Suspension Bridge. Trained as a mechanical engineer myself, the intact locks, swing bridges, steam cranes and wooden boats dating back to the Industrial Revolution got my heart racing like Judy at a textile museum!

Clifton Suspension Bridge (opened 1864)

Lock with Clifton Bridge in background













We loved how the city had worked so hard to repurpose old buildings and there were lots of cafes and shops in walkable neighborhoods. It was a fun town to explore.

Ferry


Famous graffiti by local artist Banksy

Restored steam boat












Kayaker

Lonely Planet was right! It didn’t hurt that we had beautiful spring weather but we will not soon forget our brief but wonderful stay with a great couple. When we left our new friends, we used another French phrase, “Jusqu’á la prochaine fois!” but mostly because I didn’t know if they would recognize my version of “Happy Trails!”