Things I love about Cádiz, and some things I could do without

Judy. This is our first real extended stay in Europe. After two months, here are things I really like in Cádiz:

1) Underground parking. Under buildings, under parks, under whatever. Maybe 

it's because cars came along so late in its history, but I LOVE that the beauty is not destroyed for parked cars.

2) All kinds of people walking. Old people with walkers or canes, teens with earphones, lovers entwined, parents or grandparents with strollers or prams, in all kinds of weather. Not a day goes by that I don’t see an adult child pushing a parent in a wheelchair or holding an arm.

3) How pedestrian-friendly it is here. When cars do go down a narrow street where folks are walking, they go slow. And most really DO stop for pedestrian walkways on major streets.

4) The Mercado. Oh, my goodness. Our favorite baker has bread to die for. And the fish! “Yes, cut me about a half kilo of that fresh swordfish, please.” Oh, and of course the fruit and vegetables. It’s asparagus season, so I’m wallowing in it. The strawberries are the best I’ve ever tasted. If one guy’s produce doesn’t look up to snuff, there are plenty of others, and everyone is pleasant to buy from. They all add up the bill on calculators and show it to you, so there are no misunderstandings. Best of all? It’s a block from our apartment.

 5) The beggars. I know that sounds bad, and I really don’t mean all of them, but so many of these old men have great faces and voices. We have our own “buddy”—one Euro every Monday. For the rest of the week, he greets us and says, “Lunes! (Monday).” The guy who demands twenty cents flips us off every time we say no. How the two guys who camp out in the post office doorway can understand each other over the alcoholic speech is beyond me, but they seem happy to chat.

6) FAMILIES!!! It is such a pleasure to see extended families enjoying each other in cafes or in the park.

7) The parks and squares.

Plaza Espana

They pop up out of nowhere with a surprise of green, benches, and outdoor cafes with umbrellas. In Parque Genovese, there are sculptures of artists, poets, and dancers—and a spectacular view of the bay.

8) The ocean. We have water on three sides, so watching the waves and tides is easy. There are walls and benches where you can sit to watch. If you get lost in the narrow streets, just keep going. Eventually you’ll hit water. We walk along the seawall every

chance we get—almost every day.

9) The history. The fact that when Julius Caesar arrived, it was already a thousand years old says a lot. And legend has it that Hercules founded it after his labors. Christopher Columbus (whatever you think of him) set out on his second voyage from here. They obviously cherish their history here, as seen by museums and restored buildings, not to mention the art.

10) When people walk their dogs (and there are TONS of dogs here), most of them not only pick up after them, but also carry bottles of soapy water which they squirt on

See the bottle in his hand?

places where the dogs pee. It really cuts down on the urine smell. I’ve never seen that anywhere else.

I haven't even touched on the wine, tapas, Flamenco, or the fact that many businesses really DO take a break in the middle of the day and stay open late. I think that's great.

And, of course, there are things I could do without.

1) People stop in the middle of a crowded street or sidewalk for whatever reason, and seem completely unaware of the ensuing pedestrian traffic jam. While it’s good to see groups leisurely take their time, they just don’t seem aware that anyone else is

Note the folks walking in the biking lane on the right

there. I suppose there’s a lesson for me in that, but I don’t get it. People also walk out of shops into crowded streets without looking to see if anyone is coming their way. They come out of nowhere, and you have to slam on the brakes or try to duck around. Everybody does it, though, so it must be me.

2) Smokers. Look, lots of people I love smoke, but the ones I know are respectful of non-smokers.  People here light up in crowds and I’m constantly inhaling their smoke and dodging lighted cigarettes. I know, different culture. But I don’t like it.

3) The fact that most people don’t greet you on the street. Yeah, I know, but I’m a Southern woman, and I love hearing and saying, “Morning!” to people I pass. It’s not a slight here, it’s just the way they are.

4) Cruise ships. Sorry, all my cruising friends. I, too, have followed the crowd off the ship and into the streets, and will do it again next December, but being on the other end is weird. Actually, it’s not awful, except on days like today when two huge ships hit town the same day and the tours following the guy with the umbrella and microphone pack the streets so you can’t move. On the other hand, the businesses were thrilled, as they should be. And it was a lovely German cruiser who showed me how to operate the produce scale in Carrefour. Still…

5) Lack of heat in the buildings. Maybe it's because it doesn't typically get so cold here. We have a tiny space heater for our apartment and bought another, but it's designed to stay cool in hot weather.

Our apartment's heater

 Even when we go to a cafe, our choice is usually to sit outside or be cold inside. This may be a climate change thing...

Next week we head for Aix-en-Provence, France, and I ‘ll be interested to see what my reactions are based on what I saw here. But ten positives and five not-so-greats (most of which are part of my personal preferences) is not bad at all. I recommend this city.