Wednesday, September 11, 2024

Adventures with friends

Judy. A week before we went to Stockholm to visit Malou, Björn, and Mikaela, they called to find out what we wanted to see and do while staying there. We explained no excursions were necessary; we just enjoy talking, eating, and exploring good wines. All three are a given, as we never run out of subjects to talk about, and food and wine are important to all of us.

Of course they made plans. And plans about food. During the day we tried fabulous restaurants, and at night, Björn and Malou worked magic in their kitchen, matching each meal with lovely wines.

On our first full day, we visited Drottningholm, a garden estate where the king and family often reside. (He was home that day, but we weren't invited in!) The beauty of this spot is that, with the exception of areas marked off for the royal family, it is open to the public, and on this gorgeous Sunday, many families were strolling the grounds, taking in the sun. In a part of the forest, there is the "Chinese Pavilion", built in the mid-eighteenth century, and now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  Much like the Petit Trianon at Versailles, it was a playhouse for the royals. The attention to detail is stunning, with each room decorated in a different color palate. We were lucky enough to find a guide who pointed out all kinds of interesting quirks--like that the "Chinese" figurines were mostly European copies, since the real Asian figurines were far too expensive!

The immaculate, but much loved and used Drottningholm grounds

The green room in the Chinese Pavilion

The lovely Chinese Pavilion


Björn captured the four of us enjoying the sunshine

There are over 260,000 islands in Sweden - who knew? So one day we took a ferry to explore the largest group which is called the Stockholm Archipelago. Our journey ended at the island of Vaxholm, a fishing village that at one time held an important military fort that protected Stockholm. We wandered the village, ate a traditional Swedish meal, then headed back. Much to our delight, the ferry home was an old steamship from 1908, refurbished and now listed as a National Treasure.


Map of our ferry journey

Lovely homes nestled on the island

The fortress still stands

Yum!



Our steam ferry home

Relaxing with Malou in a salon of the ferry

Björn enjoying the ride


Our last big outing was to the university town of Uppsala--actually where Mikaela attended university. We started at Gamla Uppsala, or "Ancient Uppsala", residence and burial place of kings of the Yngling Dynasty in the 3rd century, and later the location of the "Thing of All Swedes", or the General Assembly. Don't let the simple, grass-covered mounds fool you. This is a beautiful and important historical area. And, of course, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Mounds said even to house Odin!


We drove into the city, where Mikaela showed us the student quarter, her old stomping grounds. After a short walk along the river, we ate riverside from the fanciest food hall I've ever visited! Before heading home, we ducked into the Cathedral of St. Lars. As tall and massive as other European cathedrals, it surprises with its light colors and paintings. We were enthralled with its simplicity and elegance. Coming around a corner, I was stopped by a sculpture called "Maria Returns", by artist Anders Widoff. His vision was of the return of Mary in modern times, and how she might see the world. Quite moving.

The lightness of the Cathedral is uplifting

The baptistry

Return of Maria

Ted and Malou were particularly excited to find the grave of Carl Linnaeus, 18th century physician and scientist who gave us the way of naming all living species. You no doubt learned his system in biology class. A physician as well, he used his own body as the type specimen for homo sapiens

Tomb of Linnaeus



Malou and Mikaela pose with an ancient stone outside the Cathedral

On our last day, Mikaela took Ted and me for a walk in the woods outside her apartment. What a surprise to find ourselves so quickly in a quiet forest! It's just another example of how important the outdoors is to the Swedish people.

10 minutes from the apartment



Would we have seen all this or learned all these things without our dear friends who love and are so proud of their country? Maybe, probably not. Even if we had, we'd not have understood how precious and important all these aspects of this beautiful country are. We'd not have known about the delicious authentic Swedish foods. And I'm not sure we'd ever have tried all the wines Björn pulled from his collection. We'd not have laughed so much, and deepened an already strong friendship. 

Malou, Björn, Mikaela, thank you. When can we come back?




Sunday, September 8, 2024

Our Swedish friends

Ted. It just takes five hours to travel from from Copenhagen to Stockholm by train and, after two great weeks in Denmark that is just what we did. Once again, we were drawn by the beauty of this Scandinavian country but mostly by a very special family. 

Back in 2016, Judy and I were living in a downtown Atlanta condo when we received a visit request from a young Swedish Servas traveler named Mikaela. We enjoyed our time together and vowed to meet up again one day. 

The result has been a true Servas miracle and we have since developed lasting friendships with this amazing young woman, her charming sister, Petra and their incredible parents, Björn and Malou. We have crossed paths with one, or all of them on numerous occasions since that time.

Judy & Mikaela with Maori guide - Waipoua, New Zealand, 2017

With Björn & Malou - Nice, France 2018


By 2021, we finally decided to visit Stockholm.






At the country house

Sisters - Petra & Mikaela

And there have been more rendezvous!

London, 2018

New Zealand, 2023

Monaco, 2023

So, you see, it's little wonder that we ended up back in Stockholm where more adventures awaited...

Friday, September 6, 2024

Remembering Copenhagen

Ted. I guess I was a bit surprised just how much I enjoyed Copenhagen as we hadn’t done much research on the place. I saw good flight connections from Reykjavík to Copenhagen and then recalled that it was my Mom’s favorite city in Europe. Once the decision was made, I told my Dad, who was pleased for us as he had fond memories of drinking beer in Tivoli Gardens. 

One sunny day we toured downtown with a gracious Servas host named Mona who had lived all her life in the heart of the city. She showed us the major spots and paid for our admission to the Design Museum where we had a lovely lunch.

Judy & Mona

Amalienborg Palace & Frederiks Kirke

Royal Opera House

Nyhavn

Hans Christian Anderson

Another mandatory stop was Tivoli. 



Toasting my parents at Tivoli

Will we ever return? Who knows. Would we recommend a visit there? You bet!



Monday, September 2, 2024

A Weekend in the Country (with apologies to Stephen Sondheim)

 Judy. Copenhagen is a magnificent city, with a well-deserved reputation, and we love being here, but we also love visiting smaller towns, especially with a Servas stay, so we contacted a family in the southern area of Zeeland for a two-day visit.

We arrived by train in Næstved, a lovely town near the coast, and were met at the train by Pernille and her daughter Michaela (14), who took us directly to their beautiful home, where Tristan, 11, immediately grabbed us both for big hugs. Jim, Pernille's husband, travels in his work, and is presently in Romania. 

Tristan, Pernille, & Michaela

Sitting in the bright sunroom, we began learning about Pernille's job with a very popular children's theatre in that part of the country. Ten small schools prepare the kids for a major production--always the same script, but with each school performing on subsequent nights, using the same costumes and set. It's a brilliant idea, and dozens, if not hundreds, of children get to participate. They finished THE ADAMS FAMILY in June, then immediately set up summer camps. Unbelievable.

After dinner, the five of us walked to the bay and saw remnants as well as present-day equipment of the fishermen in the area. It was a gorgeous evening.

Sunset at the bay near their house

Fisherman's nets drying

Ted and Tristan battle with lightsabers

After taking Tristan to "Free School", an alternative school they attend, Pernille, Michaela, and we headed for a tour of this city, founded in the 12th century. 

City museum in 17th century building

Modern fountain depicting a local witch


A sweet hidden garden

Many old buildings have been repurposed, and the library, in a brand-new building, is one of the most innovative I've ever seen, with easily accessible books for little ones, English books for adolescents to practice reading, and video games for teens who might not have access otherwise. We also met "Nessie", the town dragon mascot, painted by the schoolchildren.

Nessie, the town mascot

Places for teens to play video games in the library








Book display for young children

We climbed the highest point in town for a view, and saw the statue of the Troll who accidentally dropped the sand that made this out-of-place hill. Pernille introduced us to Danish hot dogs and took us for a walk in the woods by a river just steps from downtown. 

Michaela explains the troll legend

The furious troll of the story








Danish hot dogs for four, please







Yum










When we picked up Tristan from school, we drove to to the coast for wild winds and surf in the town of Karrebæksminde, where the kids plunged right into the waves and sand, followed by some of the best ice cream ever! 

Michaela and Tristan at the Grasshopper bridge at the shore

Over a pasta dinner, we learned about the summer theatre camp, and after dinner, Michaela and Tristan put on a show of some of the dances they learned. These kids were not shy.

You can tell their sense of humor

Maybe I won't visit the Ministry










Despite Tristan's request that we move there and become his other grandparents, we had to catch the train back to Copenhagen while the kids went to school.  Pernille headed to work, with a short detour to show us the storage for all the props and costumes for the theatre company.

It was a delightful peek into small-town Denmark.