Málaga

Judy. I have to admit that when we left France, I wasn’t quite ready. I was becoming familiar with Vincennes and how to get around on the Metro, my French was getting better, and we were enjoying working with the Sandwich Ministry at the American Cathedral. HOWEVER, it was turning cool—the day we left it was rainy and in the fifties. 

When we arrived in Málaga, a car picked us up at the airport and drove us right to our front door on a pedestrian mall, and the weather was in the eighties. This was just fine! Our apartment, although right in the middle of the touristy Old Town, is in the center of the building, so, just as in Vincennes, the noise stops as you get inside. There are lots of windows opening to the two courtyards below, and marble floors keep it cool. 

Our living room

Many of you have told me that you visited Málaga either to stay or on a cruise stop, so you know how beautiful it is. We have found ourselves really settling in and just living in this beautiful place, since we almost wore ourselves out with all our little side trips in France. We have explored the city, though. 

Málaga is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, having been established as a port by the Phoenicians in about 770 BC. They called it Malaka, but when the Romans invaded in 218 BC, they called it Malaca. When the Moors invaded, they called it Mālaqua for the next 800 years, when Castille took over and named it Málaga. So the spelling has changed but the name remained the same. 

First-Century Roman Theater

A short walk from our apartment in the center of the old town are the remains of the first-century Roman Theatre. This is butted up against the well-maintained ruins of the Alcazaba, the Moorish palace next to the Castle of Gibrafaro, their fort, built in the eleventh century. It’s also a great place to get an overview of the city and the harbor. 

View of the Alcazaba 

From the Mirador, looking down

Patio at the Alcazaba

Across from our apartment is the massive Catedral de la Encarnación, with construction begun in the sixteenth century. Unfortunately, the money dried up, and the second tower was never finished, so she has gained the nickname “The One-Armed Lady”. 

We attend church at St. George’s Anglican Church, in the middle of the Anglican Cemetery, established in 1831. 

Ted at St. George

The beaches here really became popular in the 1950’s, and Torremolinos, a nearby town, opened the first gay bar in 1964. 

The cruise stops have really put it on the map in this century, and it remains a vibrant community, as it has through the centuries. 

The streets are narrow and crooked, just as they are in Cádiz, and fun to explore, unless you’re Ted trying to follow the blue dot on GPS. 

Street sculpture

We were here for the National Day of Spain

Restaurants and bodegas are plentiful and good, and across from one of our favorite tapas places is the Picasso Museum. Since he was born here, you can also visit the Picasso Birthplace Museum. 

Walk through the park to the beach

Quiet morning at the beach

Beaches are fifteen minutes away, as is the church. A five-minute walk in the other direction takes you to the enormous Mercado, where fresh fruits, vegetables, meats, cheese, and fish are on display at a reasonable price. 

We spend lots of time there. Ten minutes further takes you to El Corte Inglés, a department store that carries anything (including food) that you could possibly want, and a few blocks past that is the Renfe train station, that can take us to visit our family in Seville. 

Speaking of which, they drove the two hours to see us last week. We were supposed to have a reunion last year, but we all know how that went. There were lots and lots of hugs. 

Inmita, Lucia, Alex & Alex. Fishbug Fans! (That's our grandson's band.)

Have we done all the traveling we’d intended? Nah. But do we like it here? Just booked an apartment further down the beach for next spring.

More jewels of France

Ted. Judy and I have been in Spain for two weeks now and I have been transferring the last few photos of France onto our laptop. Reliving some moments, I concluded that I still have a few comments to make about that country that we love so much. 

Rouen 

My folks first visited Europe around 1965. My Dad had a business trip to France and my Mom was able to go along. There is no doubt that the stories of their first trip out of the US kindled my curiosity about the world. Several of those stories were set in the ancient Norman capital of Rouen. Rather than dropping by on our driving tour of Normandy, Judy and I waited and took a full day trip there by train. The town did not disappoint. The cathedral, so beautifully captured by Monet, the 1,200 wooden buildings and the entangled histories of France and England left quite an impression. 

Cathedral

Great clock

Old street with no tourists

Cidre & gallette (buckwheat crepe)

Old house

Richard the Lion Heart

Rollo, Viking and first Norman ruler

Sainte-Chapelle 

Judy had visited Louis IX’s jewel box on a couple of occasions but I never wanted to fight the crowds to see another church. One benefit of traveling during a pandemic is the absence of tourists. I was spellbound. 

Notre Dame de Paris 

The old girl took quite a blow two years ago when the roof caught on fire. I was never a big fan but have to admit that seeing the effort being made to bring her back, better than ever did my heart good.

Reims

Ted. While chatting with my father one day he asked whether Judy and I had ever visited the city of Reims in the Champagne region of northern France. He had just finished reading a novel by Kristen Harmel called The Winemaker’s Wife which was set there and said that the town sounded interesting. 

We had visited many wineries over the years but never one using the famous “méthode champenoise.” I also new that Reims Cathedral played an important role in French history. So, I got online and  booked train tickets and a tour at G.H. Mumm. 

On leaving the train station in Reims, we were immediately struck by the age and importance of the city. 

Porte de Mars Roman Gate

Founded by the Remi, a Gaulish tribe, it was quickly conquered by Julius Caesar who made it a regional capital. Lots of stuff happened there in the ensuing years, Christians came, Attila (yeah, that Hun) torched it. Clovis, first king of the Franks was baptized there and it became a tradition for French kings to be christened in the Reims Cathedral. Notable among these was Charles VII who christening was made possible by a feisty young woman named Joan. 

WWI was tough on the city and the cathedral was nearly destroyed. The city library was rebuilt with donations from a philanthropic American.

Carnegie Library

WWII was no picnic either. However Eisenhower established his headquarters there and the German generals surrendered to him in Reims, ending that conflict. 

All of that brings us to Champagne wine, a relatively recent invention. The wine we now know and love was developed in the 19th century. Our tour was fun and informative. We walked along some of the 26 kilometers of tunnels carved out of the chalk that lies beneath the city. We saw some old equipment in the museum  and concluded with a glass of Mumm Cordon Rouge, our family’s favorite. 

At the end of our busy day, I noticed a simple plaque on the platform at the Reims train station honoring French railroad workers who died during WWII. I was immediately put in mind of the old Burt Lancaster film, The Train. I did chuckle a bit when I saw the two additional plaques added at the bottom. I guess not everyone replied by the deadline.

The importance of food in France

Ted. I started off writing some notes on the food of Normandy. Apple orchards and dairy farms are everywhere and one summarizes Norman cuisine using four “C’s”; cream, Camembert, cidre (hard apple cider) and Calvados (apple brandy). We also love the local oysters and fish. 

Food is really the glory of France and every part of the country is fiercely proud of their products and traditions. I would have to say that food may well be more important to people of France than about any country I’ve ever visited. Take a look at a chalkboard from a simple creperie in Rouen which lists where all of their ingredients come from; even the flour and eggs! 

Food and beverages are not just meant to satisfy one’s basic needs, they exemplify the culture of France and it’s various regions. Thus the French government has thousands of regulations regarding food. The most recognizable is the system called AOC (Appelation d’Origine Controlée). Translated as Controlled Designations of Origin, they regulate wines, spirits, cheeses and many other foods for which the location is key. Take Camembert, for instance. The AOC specifies exactly which villages can identify their cheese as AOC Camembert. The local “terroir” (soil, climate, etc) give them a distinctive flavor and the farmers want their brand to be protected. This also protects the folks in a supermarket who have an expectation about to what they are buying. Come to think of it, the state of Georgia does the same thing with their famous Vidalia onions.

Every Tuesday when we were in Paris, we volunteered at the American Cathedral where free lunches are distributed to 100 poor and homeless folks. Again, the food was important. Each bag lunch included a hot pasta dish or cold sandwich along with a number of other items like hard boiled egg, croissant, fruit and yogurt. I typically worked the drink table where we served water, tea and coffee. Our guests may have been down on their luck but were always very fussy about how much coffee, milk and sugar went into each cup. It had to be just right - because it was important.

Judy with Kim, the Cathedral Outreach chair 

French people, be they princes or paupers, linger over their food. Judy and I tend to eat more slowly when we are in France. By taking one's time, it is possible to enjoy one's food and drink using all five senses. 

So, after visiting France many times over the past  45 years, what’s my favorite French meal? I'll show you:

Things to love about France

Judy.  After spending six weeks in France—not nearly enough, by the way—I’ve come up with some things I love about France, and, in fact, most of Europe: 

1. Public transport. Wow. Both trains around the country and buses and Metro in the city.

Metro station across the street

For about two dollars, we can go almost anywhere in the city on the Metro. Trains are a bit more, but getting to Quivrechain, by the Belgian border, was a dream in two hours on the TGV. Chartres, Rouen, and Reims were easy to get to. And taking a Metro or RER train to the airport was a breeze. 

RER station 3 blocks away

           

2. Respect. Do not try to tell me that the French are rude. Almost every time I get on a crowded Metro, I’m offered a seat, and often, Ted is as well. People stopped when we were checking our GPS to see if we were lost, and if they could help. Others helped us pull our big suitcases up the stairs of the Metro. 

 3. Response to Covid. There’s a reason the numbers are lower here than the US. Mask mandates, proof of vaccination or a negative test the same day (there are pop-up test kiosks everywhere), and hand sanitizer are required for entry to restaurants and often to shops. Masks are required on the Metro, with a 130 euro fine if you’re caught without one. 

4. Street markets. Oh, my gosh, the beauty of those fresh veggies, the meats, the fish, the flowers! If you keep your eyes open you can find one almost every day, but the big ones are usually two or three days a week. Prices are reasonable, and quality good. And I love hearing the vendors shout. 

Early Friday morning in Vincennes

5. Supermarkets almost across the street, so you can buy what you can’t get at the market on a daily basis. I’m in love with the frozen pre-prepared quiches and tarts. 

6. Real cafes everywhere. No need for Starbucks here, though you can find those, too. And every inch of the sidewalk around is used. This was true pre-pandemic, as well. 

One of many in Vincennes

7. Windows. Those fabulous ones that either swing wide or open at the top so you can get fresh air. 

8. Rentrée. We call it “back to school,” but here, it’s more than that. People have returned from their month-long vacation and are ready to start work. School is starting. Fall is starting. And the slow emergence from the pandemic has made this year even more exciting! It truly is a re-entry. 

9. Well-behaved dogs. It’s also a joy to watch owners with new pups gently train them to behave in the cafés. Unlike scooters, they take up little room on the Metro. 

10. Green spaces. There are parks everywhere, and they are well used. Ted says that they’re the living rooms (along with cafés) of folks who live in tiny apartments. Maybe, but there are always people in them. 

Bois de Vincennes

Alice in Wonderland area in the Bois de Vincennes

11. Bio. Not just organic food, which is everywhere, but also a commitment to use less. Plastic is hard to find; my yogurt containers are paper which can be recycled. Bags for veggies in the stores are paper. 

12. Museums and public art. Enough said. 

Christo's installation on the Arc de Triompe

13. Inclusion and diversity. I understand France has had its issues with discrimination against minorities. Seems as though the same colonialism has lead, over generations, to acceptance of those who mainstream. I love seeing the diverse families. And this ad will forever be the favorite of this aging traveler! 

There are also things I can do without. 

1. Smoking. Seems like last time we were here, it was better. Of course we were in Aix-en-Provence, so maybe health is more important there. Or maybe the pandemic sent folks into a smoking frenzy again, but it’s awful. 

2. Scooters, both manual and electric. They seem to have replaced bikes, but people don’t know whether to use them on sidewalks or the street, so they’re everywhere, including on the crowded Metros. In the supermarket the other day, there were two kids running rampant with them, while mom blithely shopped. 

3. Dog poop on the street. While the dogs seem well behaved, the owners, not so much. Granted, it’s much better than it was when I came to Paris the first time, but some owners haven’t learned.