Reims

Ted. While chatting with my father one day he asked whether Judy and I had ever visited the city of Reims in the Champagne region of northern France. He had just finished reading a novel by Kristen Harmel called The Winemaker’s Wife which was set there and said that the town sounded interesting. 

We had visited many wineries over the years but never one using the famous “méthode champenoise.” I also new that Reims Cathedral played an important role in French history. So, I got online and  booked train tickets and a tour at G.H. Mumm. 

On leaving the train station in Reims, we were immediately struck by the age and importance of the city. 

Porte de Mars Roman Gate

Founded by the Remi, a Gaulish tribe, it was quickly conquered by Julius Caesar who made it a regional capital. Lots of stuff happened there in the ensuing years, Christians came, Attila (yeah, that Hun) torched it. Clovis, first king of the Franks was baptized there and it became a tradition for French kings to be christened in the Reims Cathedral. Notable among these was Charles VII who christening was made possible by a feisty young woman named Joan. 

WWI was tough on the city and the cathedral was nearly destroyed. The city library was rebuilt with donations from a philanthropic American.

Carnegie Library

WWII was no picnic either. However Eisenhower established his headquarters there and the German generals surrendered to him in Reims, ending that conflict. 

All of that brings us to Champagne wine, a relatively recent invention. The wine we now know and love was developed in the 19th century. Our tour was fun and informative. We walked along some of the 26 kilometers of tunnels carved out of the chalk that lies beneath the city. We saw some old equipment in the museum  and concluded with a glass of Mumm Cordon Rouge, our family’s favorite. 

At the end of our busy day, I noticed a simple plaque on the platform at the Reims train station honoring French railroad workers who died during WWII. I was immediately put in mind of the old Burt Lancaster film, The Train. I did chuckle a bit when I saw the two additional plaques added at the bottom. I guess not everyone replied by the deadline.