My Son Sanctuary

Ted. As we travel, Judy and I are constantly reminded of our ignorance of world civilizations. In 2017, while in Cambodia, we visited the temple complex called Ankor Wat in the ancient Khmer city of Ankor. We were stunned that such a vast power could have ever been defeated in battle.

Living in Hoi An, Vietnam, we are now in an area that was once part the kingdom of Champa, the power that had crushed the Khmer in 1177 and sacked their capital. 

Beginning in the 4th century, in a valley just 20 miles from modern day Hoi An, the Champa people were growing in power and began to erect temples and shrines to their Hindu gods as well as tombs for their godlike kings. 

Like the Khmer, the Champa were great traders. In addition to goods, they also imported ideas, technologies and religions from their neighbors in present day China and India. 

Just like all other empires, in the 15th century, the Champa kingdom slowly collapsed after losing a war with the Viet kingdom to the north. Their buildings were ultimately abandoned and reclaimed by the forest only to be rediscovered by French archaeologists in the late 19th century.

Now called My Son Sanctuary, this collection of over 70 structures is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

We were saddened to learn that these ancient structures suffered a lot of damage from bombs dropped during the war but restoration is underway, funded by grants from Poland, Italy and other countries. Surprisingly, the restorers have been unable to figure out the composition of the bricks that were used a thousand years ago. The old bricks have retained their reddish hue over the centuries but the new bricks quickly get covered mold, turning them black. 

Here are a few snapshots of buildings and carvings we saw at the sanctuary.

As usual, I refer you to the internet for further study. I will also suggest streaming “Ankor: Hidden Jungle Empire,” an episode of the PBS series called Nova. 

So, whatever happened to the Champa people? They are still around. In the extreme southern part of Vietnam, Cambodia and Malaysia one can find a distinct ethnic minority now called the Chams. They have retained elements of the original culture and language but are now practicing Muslims.