Château de Beynac

Ted. We don’t typically tour a lot of castles. For one thing, the sheer number of them is a bit daunting. There are literally thousands in France alone. Driving around Dordogne, it is nothing to see at least two or three from the road every day. Like churches, after a while they all sort of look alike. But we thought we should pick out one, pay the money and wander around. After a bit of deliberation, we settled on Beynac. Note that it is called a château which is a broad term in French, encompassing fortified castles, palaces and even big houses. 

Annoyingly, most castles are at the top of a hill. I suppose it made sense for defensive purposes back in the 14th century but it is a pain for 21st century tourists. So, we joined the folks wandering up the hill. Going on a weekday morning in September, we weren’t overwhelmed by the crowds so it was very pleasant. 

Some scenes from the film "Chocolat" were shot here

Finally - the front door!

Arriving at the top, it was easy to see how tough it would be to take this castle. During the 100 years war between France and England, the Dordogne River was a border between France and Aquitaine, the duchy controlled by England. From this castle, on the north shore of the river, it is easy to observe two castles on the opposite side. 

The "English" castles are in the upper left corner

Chapel and Dordogne Valley

Though there were frequent skirmishes between the opposing forces, Beynac never fell. Built in the 12th century and expanded over the years, it fell into disrepair in more recent times until it was purchased and restored by an Italian businessman in 1962. He decorated the rooms in styles from several centuries.

This was Richard the Lionheart's room in the 12th c

"Throne" room (toilet)

I am currently rereading Barbara Tuchman's A Distant Mirror in which I am reminded that for every majestic château or church in Europe, there were thousands of hovels. It sort of makes one wonder. Still, it is impressive.

An aerial view from the internet