The few people we know who have ever visited this tiny country said they really liked it. Here are a few reasons why we are now fans as well.
The people
We found the Maltese to be very friendly and proud of their country. Sadly, with a population of less than 600,000, their unique language is dying out. Immigrants, who are pouring in, comprise around a quarter of the population now and that is accelerating the switch to English - the second official language. We did meet a number of immigrants who seem happy to be able to live here.
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| With Aaliyah, 100% Maltese |
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| Ted with Milos, from Serbia |
One morning we visited the weekly car boot sale. It was like a flea market for the United Nations.
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| Car boot sale |
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| Bilingual signage |
The history
I will do a separate post on mesolithic Malta but the recorded history, stretching from the Phoenicians to the Knights Hospitaller, sieges by the Ottomans and the Germans is all fascinating.
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| Phoenician tomb, 700 BC |
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| Legendary cave of Calypso (from the Odyssey) |
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| La Guardiola of Fort St Michael, 16th century |
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| Saluting battery begun in the 16th c. (Senglea on the right) |
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| 18th century windmill |
Senglea
We chose to stay in this town. It’s one of the Three Cities - fortified towns across the Grand Harbour from the capital city of Valletta. It is really just a village and provides a peaceful respite from the hubbub.
Modern ferries run back and forth to the Valletta but it is also fun to take one of the traditional dgħajjes.
The Snop House
I can’t remember when we felt so pampered by a hotel. This tiny bed & breakfast is owned by a French couple who insist on buying local food and only hiring folks who were born and raised in Senglea. These employees taught us much of what we now know about the country. Oh it’s also cheaper than a Holiday Inn Express back home!
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| Evening wine (Maltese, of course) on the terrace |
Co-Cathedral of St. John’s
I’m not that crazy about visiting churches and this one was certainly gaudy. It does have two of my favorite Caravaggio paintings, though.
In addition, I loved the Chapel of Our Lady of Philermos. A guard only permitted admittance to those who wished to pray (or possibly just meditate) so it provided a tranquil retreat from the noisy throngs.
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| Baroque gone mad |
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| St Jerome Writing |
Gozo
Only about 5% of the population lives on Gozo, the second largest of the three inhabited islands that comprise the Republic of Malta. It is very rural and most of the country's food is grown here. It does have it’s own charms and is easily reached by an inexpensive 45 minute high speed ferry trip from Valletta. We explored the island on a hop-on hop-off bus but if we return, we would just travel from site to site by Uber as they are available everywhere.
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