Semana Santa, Oaxacan Style

 Judy. Having experienced Semana Santa (Holy Week) in the elaborate style of Andalucía in Spain, I was curious to see how Oaxacanians would honor this holy Catholic observance. Wow! While they have hints of each other, they are quite different.

In Oaxaca, joy and celebration seem to permeate everything everywhere.There was a Carnival parade before Lent, but nothing changed afterwards. Weddings (and this is a spot for destination weddings) held at Templo Santo Domingo call for bands, parades, Indigenous dancers, and mezcal. I thought during Lent, the forty days before Easter, we would see a slowdown, but nothing changed--there were still two or three weddings every Saturday. 

As Palm Sunday approached, a flyer appeared describing the events of the week. Pretty darned quiet. Around the churches, elaborate sculptures made of palms appeared, which were taken to the church to be blessed and, after Palm Sunday, kept at home.

Hotels and restaurants decorated

Elaborate weavings from palms

During the week, several concerts are held in different churches. Music pervades everything here.

"Stabat Mater Doloroso" performed at Basilica de Soledad

As in Spain, the two stars of Holy Week are the Christ figure and the Mary figure. And, as in Spain, Mary gets a great deal of attention. Also, as in Málaga, there are many churches in town.

When I first arrived here, I was surprised that I didn't see more of Nuestra Señora de Guadeloupe. She's definitely tucked in the corner of the dozens of churches, but, like the gold trim in these fancy worship centers, a more elegantly dressed Madonna is called for. You can really see Spanish influence here!

The most prominent, Nuestra Señora de la Soledad, is housed in the Basilica that is named for her. She is dressed in black, with gold embroidery attaching 600 diamonds, as well as pearls, to her robe. Her crown is made of four pounds of gold, and a large pearl dangles onto her forehead. This is the Queen of Oaxaca who is paraded through the streets on special holidays. Well, her body double is. Soledad and her diamonds and gold stay behind a window on the altar of the church. She reigns in Oaxaca city.

Nuestra Señora de Soledad (internet image)

Legends of her arrival vary, but basically the story is that in the seventeenth century (about the same time Guadaloupe appeared further north) an unattended burro showed up and keeled over dead. When the people unwrapped his burden, Soledad was there. By the end of the century, a cathedral, now a basilica, was built to house her.

On Holy Tuesday, a Procession of Banners marches from the Basilica to the Cathedral, and back again for an outdoor Mass. Unlike in Spain, the men carrying the banners and reliquaries of the Confraternity of Antequera (Oaxaca) Diocese are often teens, dressed in t-shirts. Several men carry a trono with the suffering Christ figure, and Soledad, His mother, waits for him at the church rather than be paraded with him. This is the first of two main processions of the week. Much simpler than southern Spain.

Altars along the route

Christ figure

Banners after arrival at the Basilica courtyard

Soledad (body double) awaits

To the southwest, in another pueblo of Oaxaca State, is another Madonna, Virgen de Juquila. While Soledad is life-sized, Juquila is much smaller, at 30 centimeters. She was brought from Spain, and the friar who carried her gave the figure to his servant, who set her up in his house, where she was venerated. She was given responsibility for so many miracles that the priest in Amialtepec thought she should be moved to a church. But the church caught on fire, and the only thing to survive was the tiny statue of the Virgen. The villagers tried to clean the burn from her, but she became, like them, and like Guadeloupe, a representation of their own dark skin. Then the priest decided she should be moved to Juquila. But she returned to her little village every time, and was finally allowed to stay. Many people walk a pilgrimage to see her and ask for miracles, and, I'm told, at Easter, the tiny town is packed. Near our apartment there are buses that take the pilgrims to see her. 

Virgen de Juquila (internet image)

Signpost on pilgrim way to Juquila

Buses take pilgrims unable to walk

Both of these Marys have their own feast days, but Easter is a very special time for them.

On Good Friday morning, there is a silent procession of pictures representing Christ's passion, carried from church to church in the Stations of the Cross, then left in the Cathedral.

Banners from different churches and confraternities reside in the Cathedral

Malága's Holy Week means procession after procession for the full week, with the confraternidades in their  costumes and masks, a tradition that goes back to the Middle Ages. 

Màlaga Confraternidad, one of dozens

Only costumed Confraternidad in Oaxaca procession

Here, there are touches of the tradition, but done with dignity in Oaxaca's own way. And there is only one major procession on Good Friday.

And unlike the elaborate tronos of southern Spain,the holy figures and banners here are carried by locals, including children. The Solemn Procession on Good Friday was silent, with only a drum beating. The crowd stood by; not a word was said. It was deeply moving.

Virgen de Los Dolores is carried from San Tomàs de Xochimilco

This young boy and his abuela took turns with this banner

Women from Familia Valera 

Penitentes carry crosses the whole way

As different as the two celebrations are, they speak to the parts of the countries they represent. Spain is in so many ways more formal, but much of its riches came from the silver and cochineal of this corner of Mexico. And in return, Spain has clearly left its mark on this Mexican state. Each, in its own way, honors a sacred event. I feel blessed to have experienced both of them. If you would like to read my post from Málaga, visit the blog archive for April, 2022 titled Semana Santa.