Nelson

Judy. A few years ago we made a decision to focus on "second tier cities," cities that aren't major hubs, and aren't little villages. We like walkable places, with a good airport nearby, and with interesting things to do. Let me be clear--I'll NEVER turn down Paris, though even in that city we chose to live in a suburb.

Wāitai River, mountains, and Nelson City Council building from the Riverwalk

Nelson, New Zealand, or Whakatū, Aotearoa (the Māori name), fits the bill just fine. The earliest settlements in the country were here, by the Māori, over 700 years ago. The English arrived in 1841, and found it just as agreeable. The weather is pleasant, the Tasman sea is lovely, and it's got mountains on the non-coastal side. The Wāitai River runs through it, and our sunny apartment is a block from that, right on the edge of the downtown area.

We never run out of things to do here: There's the Queen's Garden for a lovely shaded park, lots of shops (including "Op Shops," the second-hand shops I tend to haunt), and I don't recognize any of the store names, which I think is great. In many cities, you could easily be anywhere in the world, with Gap, H&M, etc. lining the streets. There are good bars and restaurants; a movie theatre; and a lively music scene, as well as art galleries. And the coffee! Pick your poison, it's everywhere.

Moongate in the Chinese Garden section of the Queen's Garden

You're also close to wineries and national parks for exploring. Yep, I fell in love.

Ted in the Brook Waimarama Wildlife Sanctuary-a grandpa with a grandpa tree

I am impressed by the care for the earth, expressed in the food and artisan markets, the recycling, and the absolute dearth of trash on the streets.

One night we attended "Opera in the Park," an annual music festival held on the local rugby pitch. Local acts opened, then the Christchurch Symphony Orchestra played, later accompanying Madeleine Pierard and Oliver Sewell, two New Zealand opera stars, as they sang duets and arias. Then came Annie Crummer and Stan Walker, pop singers from the country. The seven thousand attendees, who sat on the ground or on chairs they brought, drank their wine and ate their snacks, danced and sang along with the performers, then left with their trash, leaving the ground spotless. Now, how many places can you think of where that happens?

Stage on the left and big screen on the right

Wandering around one afternoon, I found the atelier of New Zealand designer Robyn Reynolds. She and her sister operate the shop, and I loved her clothing. I broke my Op Shop rule, and splurged on a pair of linen overalls. Mostly, I just enjoyed talking to Robyn.

Robyn and sister in her workshop/shop

Trafalgar Square, at the end of Trafalgar Street, is where a lot of the restaurants and bars are located. Ted watched the Super Bowl at a bar there with some other Americans and a few Kiwis, and on another night we had a dinner at Harry's Hawker House, which makes Singaporean Street food. Pretty darned fabulous. Across from the Square, and up a hill stands the Nelson Cathedral--quite imposing, with beautiful grounds, but we chose to attend All Saints Anglican, a friendly small but growing church. 

Trafalgar Square on a quiet morning

There are murals all around town. Some are lovely, and some have a sense of humor.

On Saturday there will be a "Sing Fest"--choirs from around the city will perform at the Market and in Trafalgar Square. 

We've had coffee with some Servas hosts and a couple from church, and are delighted when we run into one of them as we wander town. One night we were invited to the homes of Lizzy and Steve, whom we met at Opera in the Park.

With Lizzy and Steve at their beautiful home in Māpua

I know everyone has heard of how wonderful New Zealand is. It's true, it's true! Our experience on the South Island is in many ways different from that we had six years ago, when we stayed far south in Te Anau and just hiked for a week. We've done some walks in National Parks here, too, but are also happy living in this lovely city. I sure hate to leave.