Quote du Jour

“…the traveler who has once been from home is wiser than he who has never left his own doorstep…” 

                                         - Margaret Mead

Second week at sea

Ted. Judy and I have been back in Georgia for a couple of weeks but it has been a whirlwind of activity. To relax, I like to transport myself back to shipboard life. 

From Valencia, Spain our ship steamed through the Strait of Gibraltar. This is the first time that we have done it in daytime and I tried to imagine the feeling ancient mariners must have felt when they sailed out into the vast unknown beyond the Mediterranean, leaving behind the only world they knew.

Gibraltar

We were bound for the Azores and I was filled with anticipatory pleasure. We now had time for workouts in the gym and dolphin watching from our balcony (saw three!) and saw shows and listened to live music. Our ship was a sister ship to the one on which we sailed from Australia in the spring so we had some similar equipment. We loved the RipCord by I-Fly which is a skydiving type experience that is a blast. We also rode the North Star gondola 300 feet above the sea for great views of the ship and distant shores.

The end of another relaxing day

Every couple of days, we would meet up with a couple that we first met in Civitavecchia named Mark and Sandy. They live in Florida but had just purchased an apartment in Italy. We shared lots of travel adventures and tips. 

For this trip, Judy and I had splurged on a “junior suite. The larger room and amenities were nice but my favorite perk was access to a special dining room called the Coastal Kitchen. The food in the main dining has always been good but this small room served exquisite dishes. We had lots of lamb and veal options as well as special seafood like bronzini. Every night was special. 

Storms arose in the North Atlantic as we approached the Azores so our captain made a decision to divert to the Portuguese island of Madeira. Disappointed, we vowed to make the most of a very short stop there. From the ocean, the island looked beautiful and we both thought it warranted exploration on a future trip. I had heard of the wine so we headed straight to a winery tasting room. Their wines are fortified like port and sherry and we found them to be delicious. Even better was the fact that we were able to buy a lovely old vintage bottle that we will enjoy in the coming years.

Sunset in Funchal, Madeira

More sea days ensued as we proceeded westbound to our next destination - Bermuda. This island, about 900 miles east of Charleston, SC has always fascinated me. It’s not in the Caribbean, and it’s not in Europe. It turns out to be a lovely place. We took a ferry from our dock to the capital of Hamilton and then enjoyed a long bus ride through the countryside back to our ship. We found the scenery and the people to be charming and have added it to our list of places we might wish to explore at a later date. 

Rum swizzle & fish sandwich

Presbyterian church

After 15 days we finally docked at Ft Lauderdale and made our way to the nearby home of long time friends, Bill and Anne. We always enjoy time with them and it was a final treat before heading back to Athens, Georgia and the warm hugs of grandsons.

The Need for Plan B

Judy.  I've mentioned before that one of my favorite phrases of Ted's is "What does this make possible?" It's a great way to redirect our thinking when a plan falls through. It served us well during the pandemic, when we found a little house near our daughter, a house to which we now return when we go back to Georgia.

Last year, we were unable to go to the Basque Country when we were in Spain, so we went to Mallorca instead, and met up with our friend Monica--not a bad trade-off.

On this cruise, when the weather was bad in the Azores, which we'd really wanted to visit, the Captain's Plan B was to go to Madeira instead, where we were able to walk into town to a wine tasting, and return with a vintage bottle of Madeira wine.

What we're not good at is looking ahead for a Plan B. So far we've been lucky--no missed flights, no accidents, and illnesses that happened when we were in one spot for awhile. It's made us lazy, even when we've talked about the need to locate a doctor just in case, or when we wondered what we'd do if we tested positive for Covid the day before getting on a ship. 

However, back in Málaga, at 5 PM before we were to leave the next morning for Barcelona, I got hit with killer food poisoning, and was up all night with very unpleasant trips to the bathroom. In between, I kept thinking, "I've got to get over this! If we miss the flight, how will we make it to Rome to catch the ship on time?" Ted, trying to catch sleep in the living room, was agonizing over the same question. 

Luckily, I had my last bout at 5 AM. I took some medication, showered, got dressed, and sipped tea. And we made it to the airport on time.

So, after so much luck, we finally realized that Plan B needs to always be part of our repertoire. Locate a doctor or medical center. Check with airlines ahead of time to see what other options are available. Above all, don't count on luck. 

Sometimes lovely things are made possible, but not always. As my Eagle Scout son would remind me: "Be prepared."

  

Our first week at sea

Ted. After two wonderful months in Málaga, Judy and I flew out on the morning of October 25 to begin our long journey home. 

Our first stop was Barcelona where we spent the night, catching a flight to Rome the next morning. It’s a two hour journey from Rome airport to the seaport of Civitavecchia. We enjoyed a charming little hotel there and briefly explored the town before boarding Royal Caribbean’s Odyssey of the Seas for our cruise back to Ft Lauderdale. This was going to be a 15 night journey with lots of stops at the beginning. 

Checking out the balcony on a breezy arrival

Our first port of call was La Spezia, Italy, known primarily for its proximity to Pisa, Florence and the Cinque Terre. Being pretty well pooped, we just wandered the town itself. Judy shared on Facebook that we would visit Nice, France the next day. In one of those joyous coincidences we so often encounter, our Swedish friend Mikaela announced that she just happened to be in Nice. 

The next morning, the three of us met up on the pier in the lovely village of Villefranche-Sur-Mer (our ship being too large for the port in Nice). After a quick stroll through the charming town, we hopped on a local train to nearby Monaco and had a wonderful day exploring this tiny country.

Villefranche-Sur-Mer

Port of Monaco

Palace

Judy and Mikaela

The next day we stopped in Palma on the Spanish island of Mallorca. As we had just spent four days there last year and were still recharging our batteries, we didn’t feel the need to even leave the ship. 

Day 5 was spent in the town of Valencia, Spain. We did enjoy a brief walkabout and were most impressed by the beauty of La Lonja de Seda, the Silk Exchange. 

Valencia Cathedral

Central Market

Hall of Columns in La Lonja

After this non-stop action, we finally got two sea days which are frankly, our favorite times. There’s nothing to do but sip wine on our balcony, eat great food, take long walks, visit the gym, listen to live music and drift asleep to the gentle rocking of the ship. And look forward to the second week of our voyage…

Gibraltar

Granada

Ted. It’s hard to believe, but in all my trips to Spain, I had never visited Granada, one of the most famous cities in the country. Judy went there a number of years ago but I kept putting it off. A newly completed high speed train from Málaga took away my last excuse so off we went for a day trip to the home of the legendary Alhambra. 

View of Granada from the Alhambra

From the train station, we strolled just a short distance to the Basílica de San Juan de Dios, built to house the remains of Saint John of God. He was apparently a great person (thus the sainthood) who founded a hospital in Granada. It was Spanish Baroque which was gaudy beyond belief but that’s what they do in churches here. 

Altar

Reliquary

Our next stop was that fabled palace complex, the Alhambra. There is tons of information on the internet about this place so I’ll just include a couple of snapshots of the walls, the gardens and the incredible Nasrid palaces. 

After touring the grounds, we took a taxi across town to Plaza de San Nicolás where one gazes back across the Darro Valley for iconic views of the Alhambra. We were even able to see mighty Mulhacén. Named after the penultimate Sultan of Granada, it rises over 11,000 feet making the highest mountain on the Iberian Peninsula. 

Mulhacén is the peak at the left

I’m not sure I’ll rush back, but the Alhambra is sort of like the Palace of Versailles; everyone should see it once before they die.

Grocery shopping in Málaga

Ted. Judy and I usually cook most of our meals wherever we live. We like to eat out once or twice a week but that’s more expensive (and less healthy). It's not as exotic as a trip to Marrakesh but I thought it might be interesting to hear what a typical shopping day is like.

It's about a four block walk to our local grocery which is part of a chain called Mercadona. Ours doesn't have a parking lot since it caters to those who walk or use public transportation. There are bigger stores on the outskirts of town that have parking lots and a larger selection but one needs a car to get there. 

The same man can be found standing out front every morning. He’s sort of a greeter/panhandler and always has a bright smile and kind words for folks coming and going. He holds a tip jar in his hand and seems well pleased when someone drops a coin in it. If a lady comes out and has to carry her bags to a car up the street, he helps her and is usually rewarded. He’s a part of the neighborhood so I give him one euro every Wednesday. As the Steve McQueen character was told repeatedly in the film, The Sand Pebbles, “It’s his rice bowl!” 

On entering the store, folks park their trolleys on the right (used for the walk home) and get an in store shopping cart. 

The selection is limited but quality and freshness are good.

Cereals

Some milk & drinks are refrigerated, most are preserved (fridges are tiny)

Eggs (they're only refrigerated in the US)

One of 3 produce aisles. Carts are parked in the center

They love their jamon here!

Only Spanish wines, $2.00 - $8.00/750 ml bottle

Just 1/2 of the fresh seafood counter!

One of 2 meat aisles. Note the fresh rabbit! Steak is about $10/lb

So, what did our bag of groceries cost today? This is what we bought. I converted the unit prices to US dollars and standard US weight or volume so you can compare with your local prices. Also, tax is included (even on alcohol). 

1 liter, milk ($4.25/gal)                     $ 1.00 

1 baguette:                                                0.65 

1 liter, yogurt ($1.25/qt)                      1.30 

1/2 liter fresh soup ($2.25/pt            2.30 

500g, granola ($2,25/lb)                      2.50 

250g, deli ham ($5.40/lb)                    3.00 

250g, Manchego cheese ($3.70/lb)   2.00 

1 liter, fresh gazpacho ($3.00/qt)      3.10 

250g, fresh ravioli ($4.35/lb)             2.40 

250g, butter ($3.70/lb)                        2.00 

1 head of romaine lettuce                    1.25 

6 eggs ($3.40/dozen)                            1.70 

1 green pepper ($1.20/lb)                   0.30 

6 bananas ($0.65/lb)                             1.30 

                                      Total cost  $US 24.80

Return to Marakkesh--or Marrakech, if you're French

 Judy. When last we were in Morocco (see archived blogposts November 13, 2018), I became friends with our riad owners, Sam and Youness. Over the years, Samara and I have texted and called and developed our friendship, so when she asked me to come back for a visit, I hopped on Ryan Air with my overnight bag and headed back to Riad Romance.

Sam and me

Arrival in Marrakech is a good test of patience. Again, I waited in the passport line (but this time for only 45 minutes!), put my little bag on the customs x-ray, and headed out to find my driver, who'd been waiting, maybe not so patiently.

I'd forgotten how beautiful the roads are in the new part of the city--palm trees lit up, flashing lights along the lanes--it almost made up for the insanity of the traffic! I have utmost respect for anyone who drives in that town, and even more as they turn into the gates of the medina, careening down narrow streets and dodging motorbikes, bicycles, pedestrians, and other cars. I felt like I was in a bumper-car ride at the fair! But we finally pulled into the alley, ducked through the doorway into the walkway and rang the doorbell at Riad Romance.

Courtyard and breakfast room at Riad Romance

And then it felt like home.  Sam was unable to be there to welcome me, so she'd had Latifa make a lemon chicken tagine for my dinner, after which the young Youness showed me to my room. Tired, full, and comfortable, I went right to sleep.

Breakfast for one!

After a huge breakfast, Sam arrived, took care of some business, and took me for a walk through the souk to Jemma el F'na, the main square. 

The square was still crazy, but not as crowded as it had been five years ago. The pandemic and earthquake have taken a bit of a toll on the tourism here, but I was assured that it's coming back. There were only two snake charmers, and no bands or twirling hats. It was clean and beautiful, though, and we walked around, catching up until lunchtime. 

Entrance to the souk from Jemma el F'na

Pastries at a shop

Part of the souk

Bringing supplies to repair earthquake damage

Youness, Sam's business partner at the riad, also is part owner of a restaurant, Terrasse la Medersa. Fabulous food for a ridiculously low price--chicken couscous with vegetables for about $5, and I couldn't eat it all. Afterwards we sat and talked to Youness and his restaurant partner Achmed. After berating me for not bringing Ted, Youness bought our lunch. 

Youness (L) and his restaurant partner, Achmed

By this time it was hot, so we headed back to the riad for a rest and for Sam to take care of some business. That evening she took me to the New City for dinner at a traditional restaurant. The food was delicious, and the juices we drank were even better. I picked up the bill for the two of us: 120 MAD, about $12. And I still couldn't eat all my food!

The next morning Sam wasn't feeling well, so I was on my own. I needed to use the ATM, but was not comfortable as a lone female going alone, so Neil and Marnie, an Australian couple, offered to walk with me.

Passing some earthquake damage 

Neil and Marnie, lifesavers!

Are you kidding me???

Boy, did we get lost. I think we passed the same pottery stand four times, and laughed harder each time we did. At one point I saw a sign "RIAD ESCAPE ROOM" Shoot! We were in our own escape room just trying to get out of the medina!

When we finally found our way, Neil and Marnie stayed with me while I took out some dirhams, then offered to buy me something cold to drink. Since alcohol is hard to find here, Moroccans make incredible juices and smoothies, perfect for the heat there. From there we ducked back to the Terrasse for lunch, and then crashed for siesta.

In the past few years, a 16th century madrassa, or school, has been restored. It was quite a famous school, and the restoration is absolutely stunning. I spent an hour or so just wandering through its cool rooms, marveling at the pools, student dorms, study rooms, and prayer rooms.

Courtyard

"Dorm rooms"

Sam felt better, so she, Neil, Marnie, and I headed back to the Terrasse for dinner. (Yes, the restaurant is that good.) We sat on the roof, enjoying the cool breeze. My lamb skewers and vegetables and eggplant salad were excellent. I'll miss that place.

The next morning was my last. I took one last walk into the souks, and as I stepped alone into the first narrow street on the way, a woman my age, dressed with headscarf and a veil over her face, came toward me. I wished her "Bonjour", and she stopped, placed her hands in prayer and bowed to me. I repeated her gesture and smiled. She reached out her hand to me, and I took it in both of mine and our eyes met. She pulled back her hand and blew me a kiss, then walked on. With all the conflict in the world,  nothing could have moved me more than that brief moment of human contact. That, my friends, is why we travel.

We left a little early for the airport so we could stop for a coffee and catch up on the way, then headed on. Sam asked about American singers I like, and I introduced her to Paul Simon. We rocked our drive to "Diamonds on the Soles of Her Shoes."

Heading to the airport

I feel so honored to have met so many beautiful people around the world. How blessed am I that a visit to a riad five years ago would bring about a strong friendship for two people with lives so very different, yet beliefs so much the same. 

Marrakech and Samara. Great combo.