Semana Santa

Judy.  I’ve been wanting to see Semana Santa, or Holy Week, in Spain since our Spanish family first told us about it twenty-five years ago. They live in Seville, but Semana Santa is honored in many parts of the country, particularly in the south. So when Ted said we were spending Easter in Málaga, one of the cities where it’s celebrated, I was thrilled. 

One of many Marias

Semana Santa is not like anything I’ve seen before. For a week various cofradía, or religious brotherhoods, parade through the streets for hours with tronos (floats) of precious metals, candles, and religious statues, often carved centuries ago by famous woodcarvers. The tronos carry scenes of Holy Week—the ride into Jerusalem, the Last Supper, Jesus being beaten and taunted by Roman soldiers, Jesus on the cross, being taken down—and almost always, His suffering Mother, dressed in elaborate robes, surrounded by flowers and candles, with hands reaching out in blessing. Up to 250 “men of throne” carry the floats, which can weigh up to five tons. They are accompanied by one or two large bands playing religious music, or by drummers who beat slow, solemn dirges. There are also hundreds of penitentes, dressed in long robes and pointed hats that cover their faces. And, no, they have no association with the KKK. These processions have been going on for 500 years or more. 

Carrying the trono

 

Mary & John & the Crucifixion

                          

Note his bare feet. They walk for hours.

As Ted pointed out in Antequera we saw the Spanish Legion singing to and carrying a small trono of Christ. Here the soldiers arrive with pomp at the port, march several miles to the Meta Brotherhood, march around with a statue of Christ on the cross, called "The Good Death", then march through the streets escorting the float once the statue was placed on it.

"Il Cautivo" is one of the most beloved figures

I was a bit surprised by the atmosphere during the processions. While there was adoration, it was also something of a joyful street party, which was actually quite nice. Of course there were moments when the crowd went quiet, but most of us were dashing from one parade to another. There might be seven or eight processions in one afternoon and evening.

 

Trono being carried into the Cathedral 

Penitentes going into the Cathedral

There’s far too much to explain here, and I’m still learning. A prisoner is released on Holy Wednesday in the Bishop’s square. Children are often dressed as penitentes, and some adults who are dressed in the capriotes (cloak and hood) seem to be more like much-needed stage managers. I was surprised at the number of women, who were allowed to join the cofradías back in the ‘90’s. The streets are packed with people, especially since this is the first one in two years. It can be overwhelming. 

Children in the procession of Il Cautivo

I went most evenings, but Ted chose to watch most of them on television. If you want more information, go to Wikipedia and type in “Holy Week in Spain”. Or check out YouTube. It’s fascinating!

On Good Friday, there is a solemn procession of "Sepulcro"

"Sepulcro"

Semana Santa is an experience I won't soon forget. I found myself alternately thrilled, exhausted, charmed, and humbled. There is a mystery to it, as there is in so many religions. I don't really understand the depth of all of it, but I am blessed by those who choose to take part in one way or another. And I am so glad I was able to see it.