Exploring Mallorca

Ted. Judy and I met Monica last April in Costa Rica. She and her friend, Anna were celebrating their completion of medical school back home in Barcelona. On parting, we promised to meet again in Barcelona in October where we were to board a ship back to the US. Monica picked us up at our hotel there, along with our friends Terry and Sue and we had a wonderful evening together. 

Upon learning that we planned to visit Mallorca this month, Monica immediately made plans to travel there herself to spend a few days with a friend from medical school who was born and raised on the island. She informed us that Carme and she would pick us up at our hotel and give us a custom tour. Carme’s family has lived in the town of Manacor as far back as anyone can remember and they speak Mallorquin, the island variant of Catalan. The Nadal family is another old Manacor family and yes, tennis star Rafael still lives there. As a typical young Europeans, Monica and Carme speak excellent English. We learned a lot from the two women as they discussed politics, culture, medicine and careers. They are both very intelligent, well spoken and passionate. We had coffee in Valldemossa, drove the hills past Banyalbufar and enjoyed lunch in Estellencs before winding our way back to Palma. Here are a few of the snapshots capturing a day we will not soon forget.

Carme, Judy & Monica

Palma de Mallorca

Ted. Before Judy and I left Spain, we wanted to explore one more part of the country that we had never seen. During our last week, we flew to Palma on the island of Mallorca. This is the largest of the Balearic Islands, which lie in the western Mediterranean Sea about halfway between Barcelona and Algiers, Algeria. 

Once again, the history of these islands is pretty bloody. To the list of the usual suspects; Phoenicians, Romans, Byzantines, and Moslems, one can add Catalonians. With the “reconquest” by James I of Aragon in 1229, most traces of previous occupants were wiped out. 

James I of Aragon

Last remnant of the Moslem culture -the Arab Bathes

Most of the folks who settled on Mallorca after 1229 were, like James, Catalonians. Consequently, Catalan remains the main language here and I use Catalan spelling for places. Oh – I asked about the alternate spelling, replacing "ll" with a "j" and was informed that “Majorca” is only used by English people. So there!

On the site of a mosque in the capital of Palma, James I initiated construction of what would become the Catedral de Santa María de Mallorca. Rather plain from the outside, we were stunned by the colors that filled the vast interior. With one of the tallest naves in the world (144 feet), I had trouble fitting all three levels of windows in a single photo. 

The next king, James II was also a busy builder. In 1311 he initiated construction of the first circular castle in the world, Castell de Bellver on a hill overlooking Palma.

No - I didn't get a drone

There's an interesting connection to the USA here. We learned that the 18th century Franciscan missionary, Junípero Serra is from Mallorca. For those of you who have not been to California, he is famous (or infamous) for founding a string of missions along the Pacific coast.

Junípero Serra at Franciscan Basilica

We enjoyed Palma but were absolutely enchanted by the island once we got outside the city. Let's leave that story for another day.

View of Palma from the Castell de Bellver

Semana Santa

Judy.  I’ve been wanting to see Semana Santa, or Holy Week, in Spain since our Spanish family first told us about it twenty-five years ago. They live in Seville, but Semana Santa is honored in many parts of the country, particularly in the south. So when Ted said we were spending Easter in Málaga, one of the cities where it’s celebrated, I was thrilled. 

One of many Marias

Semana Santa is not like anything I’ve seen before. For a week various cofradía, or religious brotherhoods, parade through the streets for hours with tronos (floats) of precious metals, candles, and religious statues, often carved centuries ago by famous woodcarvers. The tronos carry scenes of Holy Week—the ride into Jerusalem, the Last Supper, Jesus being beaten and taunted by Roman soldiers, Jesus on the cross, being taken down—and almost always, His suffering Mother, dressed in elaborate robes, surrounded by flowers and candles, with hands reaching out in blessing. Up to 250 “men of throne” carry the floats, which can weigh up to five tons. They are accompanied by one or two large bands playing religious music, or by drummers who beat slow, solemn dirges. There are also hundreds of penitentes, dressed in long robes and pointed hats that cover their faces. And, no, they have no association with the KKK. These processions have been going on for 500 years or more. 

Carrying the trono

 

Mary & John & the Crucifixion

                          

Note his bare feet. They walk for hours.

As Ted pointed out in Antequera we saw the Spanish Legion singing to and carrying a small trono of Christ. Here the soldiers arrive with pomp at the port, march several miles to the Meta Brotherhood, march around with a statue of Christ on the cross, called "The Good Death", then march through the streets escorting the float once the statue was placed on it.

"Il Cautivo" is one of the most beloved figures

I was a bit surprised by the atmosphere during the processions. While there was adoration, it was also something of a joyful street party, which was actually quite nice. Of course there were moments when the crowd went quiet, but most of us were dashing from one parade to another. There might be seven or eight processions in one afternoon and evening.

 

Trono being carried into the Cathedral 

Penitentes going into the Cathedral

There’s far too much to explain here, and I’m still learning. A prisoner is released on Holy Wednesday in the Bishop’s square. Children are often dressed as penitentes, and some adults who are dressed in the capriotes (cloak and hood) seem to be more like much-needed stage managers. I was surprised at the number of women, who were allowed to join the cofradías back in the ‘90’s. The streets are packed with people, especially since this is the first one in two years. It can be overwhelming. 

Children in the procession of Il Cautivo

I went most evenings, but Ted chose to watch most of them on television. If you want more information, go to Wikipedia and type in “Holy Week in Spain”. Or check out YouTube. It’s fascinating!

On Good Friday, there is a solemn procession of "Sepulcro"

"Sepulcro"

Semana Santa is an experience I won't soon forget. I found myself alternately thrilled, exhausted, charmed, and humbled. There is a mystery to it, as there is in so many religions. I don't really understand the depth of all of it, but I am blessed by those who choose to take part in one way or another. And I am so glad I was able to see it.

Antequera

Ted. One day during Semana Santa (Holy Week), Judy and I decided to get away from the crowds in Málaga so we took a one-hour bus ride to the mountain town of Antequera.

 

Known as “The Heart of Andalusia” because of its central location, it has always been a strategic crossroads. Greeks, Romans, Visigoths and Moors fought over it. The Muslim Kingdom of Granada built a large alcazaba (fort) but it eventually fell to the Christian king Ferdinand 1 of Aragon in 1410. 

The Giant's Gate into the Alcazaba

St Martha defeating the seven headed monster

 In memory of Moslem refugees after the city fell

Quite unintentionally, while taking a beer break, we found ourselves in the middle of a Semana Santa procession. In several towns around Andalusia, one procession is traditionally led by troops of the Spanish Legion and this is what we saw. The soldiers guard Jesus and, accompanied by their drum & bugle corps, sing their hymn, "The Bridegrooms of Death." Love, death, blood and Christ - very Spanish.

The area has a number of Neolithic structures dating back roughly 6,000 years so the town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We explored two of them, which were right in town. Both are megalithic dolmens - stone structures with columns and a roof. The Dolmen of Menga is a burial chamber oriented so that the entrance is focused on a nearby hill called Peña de los Enamorados (The Lovers Rock). 

The Dolmen of Viera is a smaller tomb chamber oriented so that it receives the morning light on the summer solstice. 

After a day of exploration, we were happy to come across a café set up under a group of magnolias in a plaza. This proved to be the perfect place to relax with some lunch and a little wine before taking the bus back to Málaga.

Toledo

Ted. Judy and I recently took a train to explore the ancient imperial city of Toledo. 

We booked an old hotel just a block from the cathedral so we could take our time to explore the narrow streets and visit the many churches, plazas and museums to be found in this UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

Cathedral from our hotel roof

Cathedral at night with Ukrainian colors

Sitting on a rocky knoll and surrounded on three sides by the Tagus River, the town has always been prized as a natural fortress.

Ferdinand and Isabella captured Toledo from the Moors who captured it from the Visigoths who captured it from the Romans who captured it from the Celts who probably captured it from somebody else. Moslems, Jews, Adrianist (Visigothic) and Nicean (Roman) Christians often thrived side by side – when they weren’t killing each other. 

We visited buildings that had, over time, served many cultures and faiths. If you browse the Wikipedia page on Toledo, you can get a sense of the incredible history here. 

Latin and Arabic writing

We were deeply moved when we saw a memorial to the victims of Covid in Toledo. Sadly, it probably won't be the last we come across.

For a time, Toledo was home to Miguel Cervantes, the author of my favorite novel. 

Me and Miguel

It was also the final destination for one of my favorite painters; El Greco. Many of his most famous works can be found in Toledo. 

We visited the Convento de Santo Domingo as it was closing on day and were the only folks in the church. As we gazed at El Greco's wonderful alterpiece, just steps from his tomb, the cloistered nuns began to chant psalms in an adjacent room - a memory of Toledo that I'll never forget.