Oaxaca Redux

Judy. When we were in Oaxaca two years ago, a woman at our church there said, “Oh, you’ll be back.” We didn’t think so. After all, there are so many other places in Mexico and Latin America to see.

Yet here we are.

It was Ted’s idea, and I balked, but he reminded me that we’re familiar with the city, and have friends, and a church home.  Besides, we’d just rented the apartment in Missoula again for a month next summer, so we’d already made plans to return to a favorite place. So I caved, and I’m so glad.

Just before our arrival in 2017, the state of Oaxaca experienced a major earthquake. You may remember our comments and photos about the damage and the buildings we weren’t allowed to enter till they were checked for safety. What a difference two years makes!

Most of the damage has been or is being repaired. Sidewalks are more even, and several of our favorite cafes and restaurants have expanded. Our little hot chocolate shop is now a full café, and Nanixhe, the fabulous hole-in-the-wall bar and restaurant has expanded from three tables to a full two-room establishment. The theatres are open again, and Ted and I attended a free symphony concert in the historical Teatro Macedonia Alcalá. 

Beethoven concert at El Teatro Macedonio Alcalá

A Chinese/Japanese-themed wedding 

Traditional wedding parade

Saturdays in the plaza Santo Domingo are full of weddings and the parades, both traditional and unusual, and Sundays in the Zocalo there are free concerts.

Dancing to a youth band at the Zocalo

Dancers on 20 Nov. Day

This time we’re staying on a different side of the city in a cottage part of a compound. Our young hostess, Angela, lives on the premises, and, when she’s not working, she’s in the patio garden trimming trees, watering plants, and picking bananas.  

Our patio

We have a different mercado—Mercado IV Centurio. It’s not as big or as good as Merced was, but there’s a grocery store 10 minutes walk from us that fills in the gaps.

The teachers at Teotitlán

Ted is teaching at En Via again, in a different village, but I have chosen not to. Sometimes I help in the office, and I had hoped to work with the women who take out micro loans, but that didn't work out. Instead, I’m focusing on my Spanish, taking classes and attending intercambios. My Spanish teacher Sandra is sweet and patient. Once a week we spend an hour and a half in total immersion together, then Anash, from Chicago, joins us for an hour of Spanish conversation. I’m amazed that we can discuss music and clothing, our families and all kinds of things. Anash and I struggle, but eventually get things out. 

Maestra Sandra & Anash

On Fridays and Saturdays I do my best to chat with Spanish speakers, then listen to and correct their English. I’ve met some wonderful folks, both English and Spanish speakers. Diego wants to be a film director in Mexico, and Gregorio and I encouraged him during our exchange. Nancy is from Ottawa, and has joined us in several outings.  

Maybe I'll be in one of Diego's films

And, of course, there’s Javier, the owner of Nanixhe. He was our first visit after our arrival a few weeks ago. Now we have lunch most Mondays and we drop by the restaurant at least one day a week. 

Lunch with Javier

That’s where we met Emmanuel, his friend, and now ours. One night Javier planned to close because he had an opportunity to do a “Taste of Oaxaca,” event that would help him publicize the restaurant. Ted, Emmanuel, and I jumped in and volunteered to keep it open. Javier gave the guys a quick cooking lesson, and Olga, the main waitress, helped them if they had a question. I washed dishes, squeezed limes, ran food, and cleared tables. Fortunately, it was slow, and all the patrons cleaned their plates. Javier was pleased, we had fun, and now Ted knows how to make some great Isthmus comida! 

My boss, and mesera extraordinaria, Olga

Emmanuel and Ted show of their garnachas

Holy Trinity, the tiny Episcopal Church we attend (usually around a dozen folks) has been most welcoming again. We’ve been put to work, Ted by passing the collection plate and moving furniture and I by lay reading. A couple of

The altar in Advent

Sundays I sang with a trio. On Thanksgiving, Fr. Bruce took those of us who attended the service to a real Thanksgiving feast at a nearby restaurant. Ted had to teach, but I brought him some turkey, dressing, potatoes, and gravy.

The gang at Thanksgiving

I’ve returned to Prana Yoga, still led by Tonio, one of my favorite yoga teachers.

And this year

Two years ago with Tonio

We’ve gone back to old restaurants and discovered an amazing coffee shop, Cafebre. I love cold brew, and they make a special one with chocolate and almond flavoring. Ted says their in-house roasted coffee is the best.

Cafebre

The Oaxaca Lending Library, an English- and Spanish-language library, has set up hikes during the winter months. We went on several of those, as well as one we did with Ted’s co-teachers, with whom we’ve spent some time.

You never know what you'll see on a hike

Kathy, the accompanist at church, and I attended a free concert of the music of Álvaro Carrio, a famous Mexican composer (from Oaxaca), performed by some of Mexico’s most famous singers. It took place in the huge Auditorio Guelaguetza, the site of a famous dance festival in the summer.

The interior of the massive Auditorio Guelaguetza

One morning Ted and I walked an hour to the University to speak in English with a class of language majors. Our friend Tom from church teaches it, and we had a lovely hour and a half with young people, listening them talk about their lives and their dreams. 


The free music and art is everywhere, and the food is still delicious. Weather is warm during the day and cool at night. People are kind and living is inexpensive. We’ve made more friends and been reminded that simple living is best.

My guess is that we’ll be back.