Fes

Ted. I have always wanted to visit the ancient imperial Moroccan city of Fes (also written as Fez). Having checked off Judy's goal of seeing stars in the Sahara, we made plans to visit a place that was on my list. The train from Marrakech to Fes is inexpensive ($60US round trip, first class) but it takes 7-8 hours each way. As Judy pointed out previously, we did meet some nice people along the way, which helped pass the time. One thing we did not like was the presence of a tout on each train who posed as a traveler. They are paid to redirect you to their client riads (hotels) and, from our observation, are pretty good at it.  We had already booked a great riad in Fes (Dar Fes Medina) and they had warned us about this trick so we kindly blew them off.

From the 12^th to 14^th centuries, Fes was one of the great centers of learning in the world, dubbed "The Athens of Africa." The University of Al Quaraoiyine was founded there in 859, making it the oldest continually operating university in the world. The wealth of Fes led to the establishment of a large community of artisans that still exists today.

Entrance to Al Quaraoiyine University

See the storks guarding the gate?

Old town - a UNESCO world heritage site

Narrowest street in Fez

The woodworkers' well

What I did not know was that Fes, and the rest of Morocco, served as a sanctuary for Jews fleeing Spain in the 15th century. When the Christian kings, Ferdinand and Isabella conquered Andalusia (the south of Spain), Moslems and Jews could either convert, die or escape, often to Morocco. There had been Jewish Berbers since the time of the Romans and this influx added a wealthy and educated group to the community. Jews in Morocco often suffered, especially in the 20^th century and most have emigrated to Israel where they now constitute the second largest Jewish community. Morocco has worked hard to protect the tiny Jewish communities that remain and every year over 50,000 Jews of Moroccan descent return to visit their ancestral home.

Street in Jewish quarter

When one thinks of North Africa, two decorative arts may come to mind – mosaics and rugs.  These are still produced here in abundance. The city is also known for leatherwork, metalwork and, of course, the eponymous head gear, which is now only seen in souvenir shops. Due to the brevity of our visit and the size of the city, we chose to hire a guide for a day. We saw the historic sites but also visited cooperatives where artisans were trained and their finished works displayed for sale. The process to hand make mosaic tiles fascinated me. 

Hand cut mosaic pieces

One piece is the wrong color - can you spot it?

Before approaching the fabled tanneries, we were handed sprigs of mint to mask the stench of the process.

The leather tanneries; cow, sheep, goat & camel hides

We were also taken to a coop that hand weaves scarves from “agave silk.” It turns out that the brightly colored thread is not, in fact made from cactus fiber but is actually rayon. The scarves are beautiful so, frankly, this seems to be an unnecessary ruse. 

Dried agave showing fibers alleged to be used

Final result

We also visited a coop that makes hand knotted rugs. Judy got to lend a hand.

The Apprentice

Judy tied the four knots in the upper left hand corner

It was cold and rainy during our stay but a cozy riad and the interesting art and history made the long train journey worthwhile. We may not return to Fes anytime soon, but we are glad we went.