Oaxaca, Part 1

Judy. We’ve been in Oaxaca, Mexico for a little more than a week, and there’s already so much to talk about that it’s going to take several blog posts to talk about it!

Because of our early arrival, we spent the first week at a B&B around the corner from our Airbnb. Maria was our hostess there, and could not have been lovelier; we asked for small breakfasts of bread and coffee, but almost every day she had a new taste for us in addition—eggs with green beans and chilies, a tamale from the coast, and a boleto with cheese, beans, and tomatoes. It was a great way to introduce us to Oaxacan cuisine gradually. And of course there was always fresh fruit. The pastries we asked for were good, but Maria’s treats were fantastic. In addition, she patiently corrected our Spanish, answered questions, and told us about the area. It was a joy to wake in the morning and step into her colorful courtyard.

We decided to take our time exploring; limiting ourselves to one “adventure” per day. We found the Zocalo, or main square, where on Wednesday nights a tent is set up and a band plays Cuban-style music while people dance. A block away is a tent where opera is played on a giant screen and people come and go at will. (Someone we met told Ted that a rich man, after a very bad experience, decided to donate money to establish art around the city: music, public artworks, etc.) Around the Zocalo are vendors of every type, and some walk around selling souvenirs or candy—it reminds me a lot of Siem Reap, Cambodia.

Color is everywhere: beautifully painted buildings, murals, flowers, clothing.

Food is absolutely delicious, and we’ve discovered mole (at least seven types) and Mexican wines and beers, in addition to dishes that are more familiar. A smile and “Buenos dias!” is answered with a big smile and response. There is a ridiculous number of museums and churches, as well as a botanical garden and ancient ruins nearby. Bands—church, school, or from wherever else—practice in the many parks. Coffee and chocolate shops are on every corner.

Yes, there is a downside. Like other places we’ve visited, there is poverty, and some streets are really dirty, with potholes in the street as well as the sidewalks. Traffic can make it scary to cross the street, and some of the brass and drum bands make up for being off-key by playing louder. Rockets and firecrackers go off at any hour of the day, and up until about ten at night. We experienced a 6.1 earthquake and aftershocks. There’s police tape around some of the buildings damaged by the quake, and some look so fragile that we cross the street rather than walk by. Plus, it’s rained almost every day, and the clouds usually obscure the mountains that surround this green valley.

Yet, as with Siem Reap, most of it falls into “part of the charm.”

I located a yoga studio and signed up for classes. During my first class I met a young Irish couple, Gavin and Claire, who quit their jobs and are traveling the world for eight months. We met them for drinks that night and shared travel stories and tips. They’ve already had some crazy adventures and have their own blog: www.theonewheregavinandclairegotravelling.wordpress.com.

We will be teaching with En Via, a local charity that gives micro loans to women to start businesses, as well as teaching English to children in nearby villages. We took a tour of six of the businesses located in small pueblos—a restaurant (terrific lunch), bread baking supply house, grocery store, basket seller, and two weavers—and were impressed by the poise and confidence that these women have in discussing their work. Check them out at www.envia.org.  The weavings were really beautiful, and, although a

Josefina & family

woman gets the loan (and takes business classes), often the entire family gets involved.

One afternoon we wandered into a feria in honor of Our Lady of Merced. While we watched a band play Latino music, a woman my age motioned for me to come dance, so I did! Salsa, cumbia, rumba—what a joy!  She wore me out!

Another day Ted and I took on a Mercado to shop for basic food. We were overwhelmed, but still bought little bananas (they’re so SWEET), queso (Maria had to show us how to prepare this cheese), and peanuts. We also took a chance and had a mole and chicken lunch that went down just fine.

We were introduced to the Oaxaca Lending Library, with English and Spanish books, as well as an expat community. On Saturday we took part in a 2-hour intercambio—one hour speaking Spanish, the second hour speaking English in small groups of three or four. I was paired with three young Mexican men, who spoke English like US natives, while they corrected every sentence I spoke.  It was HARD!  But it was good for both of us. I’ve gotta learn somehow, right?

We’ve found a small church (about ten folks per Sunday), Holy Trinity Episcopal mission. When the priest isn’t there, someone runs services. I have to admit it’s a bit jarring, but the parishioners are kind and have been most helpful. Big surprise—Joe, one of the parishioners, is from the town next to our hometown!

 We’ve moved into our Airbnb now, owned by William and Nora. We have a smaller courtyard, but there’s a rooftop garden and we have our own

kitchen  (although food is so inexpensive that we usually eat out once a day). We sit at the kitchen table to write our lesson plans, and watch either US Netflix on the computer or Spanish television, to improve our language skills.

Yep, we’ve settled in for the long haul.