Tuesday, June 6, 2017

Ending with a bang? Or a whimper?

Judy. The last month has been a whirlwind of visits to people we love and places we wanted to see. We’ve actually been too busy to blog!

We returned to Budapest and took off with Chris, Dilyana, and Nicky for a few days in the Hungarian city of Eger—lovely little city in a wine country area. It was great fun walking the town and spending quality time with family.

On our return to Budapest, we celebrated our 40th wedding anniversary with a day visit with friends from home, Nancy and Mark and Sarah and Ralph, who had finished their river cruise there.  We met for lunch at a small Hungarian restaurant, where we surprised Ralph, who didn’t know we were there. After an afternoon of chatting, they invited us to their cruise boat for dinner. It was a super way to honor our anniversary. 



The next day we took a train to the town of Visegrad, on the Danube, and hiked the mountain to an ancient castle, then returned to the river and took a boat back to Budapest to share champagne and cake with family.

Then it was time to leave Hungary and head to Germany to meet our grandson Parker.

Our friends Bettina and Klaudius and their daughter Paula, who live in Backnang, hosted the three of us for a few days, taking us around the town, driving us for a gorgeous day on the Bodensee (Lake Constance), and hosting a barbecue with some of the Syrian refugees Betti has been helping resettle. That evening, they told us stories of leaving their home—some at age 15—to travel from the war to safety. It’s a visit we won’t soon forget. 









From Backnang, we rented a car and drove through Nuremberg, where we visited the Reichs Coliseum, which Hitler built to host his rallies. The museum explored his rise - a great lesson. Interestingly, when the museum was built on the site, a hallway was placed as a "stake through the heart of the coliseum." Pretty powerful. 




We lunched in the square of the beautiful city of Nuremberg, and headed out toward Budapest to drop Parker for a few days to spend time with cousins.

What were Ted and I to do for three days? We headed to Pecs, another Hungarian town near the Croatian border. 



We absolutely fell in love with this little city. In 2001, it was named a European Cultural Capital and so it has retained sculpture, music, art and history. Our hotel resembled The Grand Budapest Hotel and it was just off the plaza so we walked all over, including to see third century Christian gravesites and to the Zsolnay Cultural Center to see Zsolnay porcelains and tiles. It was terrific. 

Back to Budapest to pick up Parker (who, incidentally, had a fantastic time), and a drive through Brno and Prague in the Czech Republic before arriving in Oybin, Germany, where our old friends Heinz and Ulrike still live.

We first visited them as a family in 1984. Oybin was then in the DDR—East Germany. Heinz was a Lutheran pastor, and therefore, a dissident. They had so very little at the time, but shared all they had with our family. For years, a photo of two of their children and Leslie hung on Leslie’s bedroom wall. Heinz was so ill during our first visit; we found out later that he had chronic dysentery due to shots given him by his doctor, on orders from the Stasi (secret police).

 
When the Berlin Wall fell, he was one of the few people untouched by ties to the Stasi, and served for a while in politics in Saxony. Now he is retired and they still live in the beautiful mountain village where we first visited. We walked into areas once forbidden to us—they were on the border of what was then Czechoslovakia—and climbed to the ruins of the Oybin Kloster, which has now been restored, and sometimes used as a venue for concerts.  Once again, we were treated as royalty—they even drove us to see the Black Madonna of Rumberg in Czech! Their sons were able to visit with their families, although their daughters live too far away. It was an absolutely joyful time, and hard to leave.















BUT, it was time to head to Berlin, where our friend Robert, from Poland met us for the three days. He arrived with a Polish dinner - smoked meat, homemade pickles, beer and a potent alcoholic beverage! Great celebration in our tiny hotel room. Parker and Robert headed off on their own a couple of times. We hope Robert's son, Piotr, also 15, can visit Parker next summer. 







For me it was great to take a photo with Parker at the former Checkpoint Charlie, where in 1984, we crossed with Leslie and Stefan with so much fear. Now, it’s almost like Disneyland. We did quite a bit of walking and didn’t see nearly enough of the city, but there just wasn’t enough time. For Parker, the highlight was going to Just Music Flagship store (7000 square meters of musical instruments), and playing a 2500 euro bass for thirty minutes.

OK, I admit it.  We overbooked ourselves in Europe.

But there are friends we really wanted to see, and places we wanted to visit. I’m not sorry about any of the wonderful places or people who make my life fuller and more interesting, but we are exhausted.

Here in Europe, we are on somewhat familiar ground, and wanted to see everyone and do everything. I’ve loved every minute of being with friends and seeing new places, but the driving in unfamiliar territory has been rough on both of us.

So this whiney part of the blog is a reminder that you can do it all, but you’ll pay the price in one way or another. Note to folks who try this—find down time. Note to friends we’ve seen—hope we were not annoying. Note to family at home—we’ll need to sit a bit.

Still, it has been a dream come true.

And deep thanks to family: Chris, Didi, and Nicky for enveloping us in your arms and lovely apartment; to Bettina, Klaudius, and Paula for showing us beautiful parts of Baden-Wurtemburg and feeding us like good Germans. You guys gave us the quiet time we needed. And thanks for welcoming Parker and sweeping him into your lives for awhile.

To Heinz and Ulrike and their family, thank you for embracing us with so much love and care, for giving us quiet time, walks, amazing meals, and a German breakfast we’ll never forget.



And to Robert, who traveled by train for ten hours to be with us, you are family. Thank you for Polish gifts and food, and hours of walking and chatting.

Back to the US now, for much-needed hug time with family and a change of clothes before we take off again.  Next post from the USA.

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