Sunday, April 23, 2017

Cape Town

Ted. Whenever we told someone that we were going to South Africa, they invariably asked; “Are you going to Cape Town?” It has a reputation as one of the great cities of the world so we decided to spend a full week there.



We rented an apartment from Heather and Niel via Airbnb and the location, amenities and their hospitality were great. Located up one side of the “city bowl,” we had a great view of nearby Table Mountain and could look down on the city below.  








We walked to many shops cafes and restaurants but Uber took us everywhere else where we wanted to go. 


Cape Town is an amazing mix of ethnic groups and cultures with immigrants and expats from all over the world. One day we joined a free walking tour of the Bo-Kaap neighborhood where we learned about the Muslim roots of many locals. 


On Easter Sunday, we worshipped at St George's Anglican Cathedral where Desmond Tutu once served as archbishop. Judy was pleased to see that there is a large labyrinth on the grounds so we were able to take a meditative walk. And naturally, we rode the cableway to the top of Table Mountain to enjoy the incredible views.



Juanita, a Servas day host of Afrikaner heritage gave us further insights into the town and its history. She devoted one full day to driving us around the many neighborhoods and beaches and took us to the wonderful botanical garden called Kirstenbosch. On another day, she drove us around the beautiful wine country surrounding the communities of Stellenbosch and Franschhoek. 













On another day, Judy and I took the ferry out to Robben Island to visit the infamous former prison and had an unforgetable tour. At one point, our guide was a man who had been incarcerated there for five years. He recounted some of his experiences and then took us to the cell that Nelson Mandela inhabited for 18 of his 27 years as a prisoner.

I could write many pages about the wonders of the city but Lonely Planet and other websites do that so much better. Suffice it to say that Cape Town was one of the highlights of our trip so far and we are determined to return one day.

Friday, April 14, 2017

Chobe

Ted. While in Africa, we wanted to visit at least one national park to see the animals. Once we decided to visit Victoria Falls, the choice was easy because one entrance to world famous Chobe National Park is in Kasane, Botswana, just 50 miles from Vic Falls. As Judy has mentioned, that decision led us to meet some very interesting people. But now I am going to talk about the animals.



Chobe National Park covers 4,500 square miles making it about a third larger than Yellowstone and nearly as big as Connecticut. Virtually every African animal you can name is found here but the park is known for having the largest concentration of elephants on the continent. We were not prepared to take one of the lengthy (and expensive) safaris so chose a couple of mini tours. One evening we took a “sunset cruise” on the Chobe River and one morning we rode around in the back of a truck on a “game drive.”




We saw a wide range of critters including crocodiles, hippos, monitor lizards, Cape buffalo, warthogs, baboons, several varieties of eagles and three types of antelope; impalas, kudus and pukus. 









We didn’t see any cats (although they probably saw us) but we did see a number of elephants up close and personal. It was thrilling and our guides made sure nothing was missed. The animals seemed to ignore the boats and trucks filled with tourists and it was surprising how close we could get. Now – getting out of a truck might initiate a different reaction but I didn’t see anyone trying that! We can only imagine how wonderful a lengthy safari might be but will need to save that adventure for another time.


Making connections

Judy. I am constantly amazed at how God opens possibility after possibility for us. Probably the most obvious to us is the people connection.

I originally became interested in Botswana—yes, I admit it—because I read Alexander McCall Smith’s The No. 1 Ladies’ Detective Agency series. Precious Ramotswe’s love for her country just made it sound way too cool. Then my friend Morgan joined the Peace Corps and was sent to Botswana, so we made plans on this trip to go to her village. Unfortunately, Morgan became ill and had to leave. Still, we had already made plans to go to Kasane and Chobe National Park, so the die was cast. The day before we left, I messaged Morgan that we’d be in Kasane (she’d also told me about how much she liked it there). Immediately she asked if I’d like to meet another Peace Corps Volunteer, and virtually introduced me to Linda.

Linda (are you still following?) offered to meet us in Kasane and asked if we’d be interested in a river cruise and game drive, as she had a friend Christine at Iswiza Travel Agency who had the best prices. Why not? And we plunged ahead.

We arrived in Kasane from Victoria Falls (after a close call with three water buffalo on the road, for which our driver stopped and waited) at noon, and the receptionist at our B&B said, “I understand you’ve scheduled a river cruise at three this afternoon and a game drive in the morning?” Moments later Christine called to say her husband, “Uncle George” would pick us up at the B&B. I asked about the price (MUCH less than what we had found online), and told her we’d not had time to get pula, the local currency. “Don’t worry about that; we’ll take care of that tomorrow. I’ll take you to an ATM.” Moments after we hung up, Uncle George arrived to introduce himself and assure us he’d be there to drive us to the jetty.

Ted will tell you all about our experiences on the cruise and drive. That’s another story.



Uncle George was there as promised, and filled us in on local lore. After our game drive the next morning, Christine stopped by to meet us and ask if all went well.  Then she took Ted to a bank and helped him calculate how much money he’d need till we left.

Christine is married to Uncle George, and they have been establishing their tourist business since she was let go from a large tourist company. It’s thriving, which is well deserved, as their customer service and the tours are outstanding. They are applying for micro loans and grants to buy their own vehicles, which will increase their income considerably.

One of our guides had asked, “How do you know Christine?” I answered, “I don’t.  She was introduced to me by Linda, whom I also don’t know, who was introduced to me by Morgan, whom I know.

That afternoon, Linda came to meet us.  


Sometimes you meet someone you immediately know will shake up everything you think and open your eyes to a world you can’t imagine.

We sat down to lunch about one o’clock. At four, she suggested we walk around the “town”. At six, we went back to the B&B and ordered drinks. At eight thirty, Ted and I finally had to go to bed. The afternoon and evening had flown by as we shared stories and ideas and learned about her family, about her choice to join the Peace Corps, about frustrations and joys, about the HIV/AIDS work that is a part of every volunteer’s work, about the kids she works with, and about the day-to-day attitude of many of the Botswanans. She’s working with youth to look toward a future, something their parents don’t do. We learned about the schools, and that many of the teachers are students who failed the exams and had no other university options, about the English exams that even she couldn’t follow.

We walked through the town and saw entrepreneurs who were not Botswanan, but from Zimbabwe, we saw empty shops that citizens couldn’t afford to rent, a favela-type slum that will be torn down to build more tourist attractions and offices. We saw baboons and wart hogs wandering the streets, and government offices and housing. And suddenly we heard her name called. Three beautiful young girls dashed up to hug her—part of her teen club. When she introduced me, they hugged me immediately and posed for a photo.


We went back to the B&B to talk more, and she asked us to help her think about her next step when her two years are up. She said, “I can’t go back to Manhattan and makeup and boots and the world I left eighteen months ago. I’ve seen too much to return to first-world problems.”

I get it.


Uncle George came to pick her up in his taxi, and promised me he’d be there to take us to the airport the following day. Linda and I hugged and said we’d see each other again—somewhere. I need to make that happen.

Thursday, April 13, 2017

Quote du Jour

“To travel is to discover that everyone is wrong about other countries.”

- Aldous Huxley