Hiroshima

Judy. Visiting Hiroshima has long been on my list. Visiting now, with a new war started, and the resulting death of citizens made it a pilgrimage. 

Friends who’ve been here have told me how peaceful it is, and I would agree. Even the art museum is a quiet, meditative place, and the artwork chosen exudes tranquility and joy. Each of the monuments in the Peace Park speak to its past horror and hope for the future. No one was a winner here, but here you feel hope, despite it all.

Shukkeien Garden, dating to the 16th century

Monument in Shukkiein Garden with ashes of victims of the Hiroshima bomb 

Two trees that survived the bombing, despite being close to the epicenter

Even the artwork in the museum speaks to peace

The bomb exploded above this science building, incinerating all inside. The shrine is in front of it.

Monument to the students who died. They had been pulled from school to work in factories for the army. The Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama had to work in a parachute factory, and has used her art to deal with her resulting mental problems.

Children's Memorial Park

Eternal flame, with prayers that it may never happen again.

Osaka

 Ted. Mention Osaka to most Westerners and they would think of the castle. And that's not wrong. It's awesome.

Mention the city to someone who has been there and they think of food - especially in the neighborhood called Dotombori. We visited the city on a quick day trip from Kyoto and spent most of our time in this crazy place.

This is around 1:00 on a Wednesday!!

The restaurants all have wild signs designed to draw in diners.

It's not cool to walk around eating

Golf ball size dumplings filled with octopus

Seafood pancakes

1,000 yen is about $6! Not bad

Ask a Japanese person what Osaka is know for, and they'll say their sense of humor. Here's an example; "In Kyoto, the locals go bankrupt buying kimonos. In Osaka, the locals go broke buying food." Gotta love it!

 

Gion, a Piece of Japanese Heaven

Judy. Kyoto is so big and has so much going on that I really can’t speak to much about the city, especially since out of our six days there, we took a few side trips to other towns. What we did see was pretty busy (not just with tourists), but once you crossed the river to our little area of Gion, the world suddenly became quiet and welcoming. Oh, I liked Kyoto just fine—it’s just that Gion was—maybe older, more authentic. And light years from modern, crazy, busy Tokyo.

A canal marks the boundary of the Gion neighborhood

Peaceful entrance to our hotel

Our hotel was small, charming, and just "Japanese" enough to make us feel like we were really experiencing the country.  While breakfast in our hotel was western-style, it only took a 2-minute walk to get to the sister hotel for a Japanese meal: smoked fish, miso soup, tofu, vegetables, rice, and pickles. Yum! 

Our room

Shoes and slippers for the room are stored in this cabinet outside the room

Gion is one of the places Geisho and Maiko (Geishas in training) live and work. Although we often saw young women we thought were Maiko, we only saw a Geisho once, but we didn’t take a photo. That’s just not cool. 

Maiko and her chaperone in the train station

What we did see is many locals dressed in traditional clothing, much like we saw in Vietnam. Only here, the men often dressed up as well. Among these old, wooden houses, it just looked right, though we often saw young people on the subways, dressed to the nines. 

A lovely canal separates Gion Hotel from the most historic part of town, with an ancient shrine just over the bridge. The most traditional part of the area is, as you could expect, filled with tourists. There are signs reminding us not to take pictures on streets where residents live, and a policeman who makes  sure that what little traffic there is keeps moving. Surprisingly, it wasn’t as busy as I expected. 

Shrine to the deity for performing arts, including Maiko & Geiko

Area where most of the Geiko perform, very old part of the city

Like the rest of the city, Gion is squeaky clean. What trash there is is placed in small plastic bags for the garbage man to pick up One morning I saw that a hotel placed netting over its small pile of refuse so the wind wouldn’t blow it away. 

Trash awaiting pickup

There’s a deep respect for this city. Tradition certainly rules Gion, although four blocks away cars and crowds rule the day. It was such a pleasure to return to our little refuge at the end of every busy day!

Quiet entrance to a restaurant

Large shrine

Plum tree in bloom

Kyoto

Ted. From Tokyo we traveled to the much more laid back city of Kyoto for a six night stay. This beautiful city had been the imperial capital of Japan for over a thousand years!

Our grandchildren love something called manga. To learn more about it, one of the first places we visited was the Kyoto International Manga Museum. 

Apparently, in Western countries, manga is considered to mean Japanese comics. However, the Japanese, seem to take a broader view and consider manga to be comic books and cartoons produced anywhere in the world. So, I guess they might think Batman comics and Snoopy cartoon strips are just American manga. 

We learned that the roots of Japanese manga lie in simple cartoon strips which were found in newspapers in the early 20th century. They were usually funny and were often political satire. 

Paper was expensive and books were rare so manga enthusiasts collected their favorite comic strips in simple scrapbooks. These now comprise an important part of the archives at this museum. 

We saw artists at work, children learning how to to the drawings and even an area where artists would create manga style caricatures of museum visitors. 

The most important aspect of the museum appeared to be the huge library of classic manga books which lined the walls of several reading rooms. Folks just pulled books off the shelves from their favorite series, plopped down into one of the dozens of the chairs and started reading. It was all very cool. 

On another day, we visited a famous Shinto shrine called Fushimi Inari Taisha. Built to honor a god called Inari, the shrine is know for the Senbon Torii, a path up a mountain created by a thousand traditional gates. We walked much of the way but the crowds were daunting. 

One torii

Many torii

On our last day in Kyoto we attended a tea ceremony for which the attendees dressed in kimonos - definitely a first for me! 

I found the process fascinating and worth the effort to dress the part.

Our teacher

Properly frothed macha

Someone had WAY too much fun!

Tokyo

Ted. After just three nights, we are about to leave our very nice hotel in Tokyo so it is time to jot down some thoughts on the brief glimpse we have had of one of the world’s great cities. 

Judy and I covered a lot of ground in the two full days we had here but barely scratched the surface. We explored a Buddhist temple, a Shinto shrine and a national garden. We saw the vastness of the city from the top of one of it’s tallest buildings (by day and by night) and watched pedestrians navigate a huge intersection. We even figured out how to use the metro and regional trains and order at little restaurants. 

Senso-ji

Judy got a good fortune from the shaker

I got good snacks from this shop

The "married" camphor trees at Meiji Jingu

Taiwan Pavilion at Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden

Shibuya Crossing - organized and quiet!

First impressions? Paper walls! The traditional houses here were very small and had paper walls so folks lived in close proximity and could hear everything their neighbors said. The culture today reflects that fact. The Japanese people are obsessed with politeness and respect for each other, especially older people. They stand patiently at stoplights until the “walk” light comes on. Cars always yield to pedestrians. Nobody speaks above a quiet conversational tone. Everyone bows to each other and says thank you - all the time. That extends to the environment as well. There is no need for public trash cans because everyone packs their own trash home. Tokyo's metro population is over 37 million but, because of these cultural differences, it feels more like a cluster of thousands of small villages.

For me, the highpoint here was the time we spent with a very nice Servas day host named Wakaba. Referred to us by Joy Seng (with whom we visited in Singapore) she was able to meet up with us twice. We also met her son, and 91 year old mother. 

Wakaba has lived in the US and speaks excellent English. Enjoying tea in her home and eating out on two occasions, she taught us a lot about the lives of typical Japanese. We will never forget her generosity. 

As usual, the best way to experience a place is by meeting people. Thank you, Wakaba!