Oslo

Judy. When one flies from Edinburgh, Scotland, to Vilnius, Lithuania, one has to change planes in Oslo, Norway. So, it seemed only logical to spend a couple of days in the capital city of a country that we found beautiful and fascinating. Rumor on the street is that it's outrageously expensive, but we decided to give it a go anyway, and were surprised to find it no more expensive that London or Paris.

Our son Stefan had a Norwegian friend in high school, Christian, who now works for Norwegian tourism. We contacted him before we left and he kindly gave us a huge list of places to visit, and he and his charming wife Lene, agreed to meet us for lunch one day.

Christian's best suggestion--and we highly recommend it to anyone going--is to buy an Oslo Pass. As seniors, this cost us the equivalent of $75 each for three days, and was an all-access pass to city travel (including the train from the airport into town) and entry fees to all the museums. (The cost of the Munch Museum alone was $22.)

The massive Munch

An early version of "The Scream"

We arrived in the late afternoon, and after checking into our hotel, hopped a city bus to the Munch. As you can see, the museum is massive, and is absolutely dedicated to the prolific works of Edvard Munch, Norway's most famous painter. We explored two of the four galleries, one of which included three of his earlier versions of "The Scream." Then we headed up to the twelfth floor for wine, snacks, and an incredible view of the harbor. A couple of glasses and terrific charcuterie board later, we walked along the harbor front and back to our hotel in a drizzling rain.

Loved this ship sculpture in the harbor

The next morning was much brighter, so after a great breakfast at our hotel, we walked to the Akerhus, the fort and castle of Oslo. Inside the fort is the Resistance Museum, which tells the story of their resistance during the Nazi occupation of WWII. Both of us were deeply moved at the courage of the people there (Christian's grandfather was imprisoned on the grounds as a member of the Resistance.)  It's a story of true courage.

The castle inside the Akerhus

A street plaque--a reminder of the Nazi occupation

Afterwards, we lightened the mood a bit and took a tram to the Ibsen Museum and Apartment. As an actor, I've always been a fan of his work--very much ahead of his time. An Enemy of the People could be true anywhere today. I hadn't realized, though, that Ibsen also was a favorite son of Norway.

Gotta admire those iconic mutton chops

Ibsen's study

His name is still on the mailbox. Yes, I'm a fangirl.

A quick stop for sushi, and on to the National Museum, which houses the art collection. I was intrigued by an installation by a Sami artist of 400 reindeer skulls with the bullet holes visible. This is a protest piece by the artist of the government's demand that her brother cull his herd.  Another area that interested me was in textile and design.

400 reindeer skulls 

A Norwegian design

Theatre nerd that I am, I convinced Ted to go with me to the Oslo Theatre Museum, which has been moved to a large park housing other historical items. It was tricky to find--down one set of stairs, up another, across the museum, up another set of stairs... There was a very small but complete exhibit of posters, set designs, and costumes from the Opera and the National Theatre.

Costumes from a performance of Anne of a Thousand Days

Outside that park was a cafe where we took a break before heading next door to the Vigeland Installation in Frogner Park. Gustof Vigeland was an  artist who sculpted 212  human figures of all ages in all manner of emotions. There is a bridge along which is lined bronze statues, and the wide pathway leads up to a granite installation. It's the most visited place in Norway. By the way, Vigeland designed the Nobel Peace Prize Medal.

Worn out, we headed back to the hotel, but I had one more visit to make. While Ted went to the room, I wandered back to the Opera House, to climb the sloped roof to the top--along with about a hundred other tourists. But it was glorious.

An easy climb with great views

On Saturday morning, we took the ferry across the Oslo Fjord to see two maritime museums--the Fram and the Kon-tiki.

A surprise awaited us onshore, an Inukshuk from Canada. We're where we're meant to be!

Neither of us knew anything about the Fram, a Norwegian ship specially designed to withstand ice packs in the Arctic . The hull was rounded so that the ice wouldn't crush it. Three voyages were made:  to Greenland, to the Arctic, and to Antarctica. The coolest part is that we could walk all over the ship and see how the men lived on it. The room was even dark with videos of what the weather would have been like. 

When I was in high school--maybe you, too-- we read Kon-tiki, Thor Heyerdahl's remarkable story of building and sailing a balsa raft from South America to the Polynesian Islands. To see the actual raft was mind-blowing. Furthermore, I had no idea he later built the Ra II of papyrus reed to sail from the west coast of Africa to Barbados. That raft, too, is on display.

I love this quote!

The real Kon-tiki

Then it was time to head back to the city to meet Christian and Lene for conversation and a real Norwegian meal!

Lene and Christian

We'd not seen each other in years, but any awkwardness of the opening talk quickly gave way to stories of their lives. Lene is a special ed teacher, and I loved hearing about her students and how her school operates. Both love Oslo, and were glad we'd enjoyed it so much.  To our pleasant surprise, when lunch was over, they offered to show us around a bit more. 

Phone booths have become Little Free Libraries

Parliament

The king said, "THIS is where Oslo will be!"

After our fish lunch, they took us for coffee and treats at a pastry shop, then to a memorial honoring those killed by a monster who first set off a bomb near government buildings, then, dressed as a policeman, went to an island where teenagers were at a camp and mowed them down. I remember when that happened, but the horror of it hit us again. The killers name is never mentioned, and he remains in prison.

A moving monument

The monument is deeply moving--a glass wall with the names of the victims. Instead of mulch or grass around the trees, there is glass from the buildings that were blown up.

Eventually it was time to send them home, and for us to take a train to the airport hotel, as we had an 8 AM flight to Vilnius. Being with Lene and Christian really made the trip complete, and I don't think I can thank them enough for advice, and for spending so much time with us.

We didn't even scratch the surface of Oslo. It is a beautiful city with a fascinating history. I believe I could willingly return!

Oslo has a great sense of humor. These are public toilets! Gotta love it.

Quote du Jour

 "Borders? I have never seen one. But I have heard they exist in the minds of some people."

                                                                                        _ Thor Heyerdahl

More adventures in Scotland

Ted. For the final post on our visit to Scotland, I thought I should tell a bit about some other cool things we experienced. 

We attended a show at Glasgow’s Sharmanka Kinetic Theatre (you can watch a video at sharmanka.com). This sound and light spectacular featured animated sculptures created over the past 50 years by a Russian émigré. The Rube Goldberg like structures had this old engineer mesmerized. 

We also spent a day at the Bridge of Allan Highland Games. There was quite a contrast with the games we attended in Glenfinnan back in 1977. This event was much bigger, with thousands of tourists. I saw very few Scots in kilts. Also, woman now compete in all of the events. 

Tossing the caber

A gutsy wee lassie entered the drum major competition

As a long time reader of Ian Rankin novels, I finally got to try an Irn Bru (pronounced "iron brew"). Scotland loves this beverage so much that this is the only country in the world where Coke is the 2nd most popular soft drink! And now, like my hero, Inspector Rebus, I love it. 

Once again, recreating a bit of our honeymoon, we visited the Edinburgh Fringe Festival, now the world’s largest performing arts festival. This time, we saw a performance by some of Judy’s “grand students.” Over the last 48 years, this festival has become enormous and the streets were packed but we were able to find a peaceful retreat - Makars’ Court. 

There we found the Writer’s Museum and learned more about the great Scottish writers Scott, Burns and Stevenson - I’m not sure why Rankin wasn’t included ;). In the tiny bathroom of a nearby café, I also saw the coolest toilet ever! 

I was thrilled to see my first ever Spitfire at the Kelingrove Art Gallery and Museum in Glasgow. This one had actually been flown in the Battle of Britain!

And then there was our time at Strathblane Falconry (see strathblanefalconry.co.uk). First of all, I should explain that I love watching raptors and my favorites are falcons. In the US, it is possible to watch falconers handle raptors in a show, but it is not legal for untrained folks to handle them. There are no such restrictions in the UK so we were able to book a private session with Graeme and his birds at his facility just 4 miles from Milngavie. We got to hold 4 different birds and "fly" a barn owl and harris hawk.

Judy with a gyrfalcon

I am sure that we will have many more adventures before leaving Europe in October but, for me, this time with the birds was definitely a high point of our three weeks in Scotland!

 

Scots--and Americans

Judy. We have been overwhelmed by the friendliness of the people we have met in Scotland. As Ted says, if Google Maps says a walk will take us an hour, in reality it takes us an hour and a half, because people stop to talk to us, welcome us, and suggest things we MUST see. Most of these folks we'll never see again:  the gentleman at the table next to us at a local cafe, or  the four walkers (and three dogs) we met on our first outing on the West Highland Way, but some have really stood out.

Ciara has a big smile and a warm heart

The night we flew from London to Glasgow, our flight was two hours late, so we parked ourselves in a restaurant to wait it out. Eventually, the woman next to us introduced herself, and said she was on the same flight. Ciara had just returned from two months in South Africa, working on a documentary she's producing, and had basically been up for well over 24 hours. But she was cheerful, interesting (small world--she was an au pair in the town near where we lived in Georgia!), and kind. We exchanged contact info, and, when Ted said he was concerned that we'd not get to the car rental place before they closed, said, "Well, you can stay at my place in Glasgow and I'll drive you to the airport tomorrow." WHO DOES THAT??? We got there in time, and later, when we met up for dinner in Glasgow, she gave us two pages of information about places to see. She is definitely someone I'll keep up with. 

Elaine and Gerry, hosts with the most!

Elaine and Gerry are our Airbnb hosts and have gone above and beyond, leaving us coffee, tea, wine, a dram of whisky, sweet treats, eggs, and more food upon our arrival. They've brought fresh linens every week so we don't have to wash our sheets and towels. A couple of days before we left they stopped by again--with more wine and whisky, and with wishes for safe travels.

John in his natural habitat

John is our downstairs neighbor who keeps the yards and cuts the grass (edging by hand with clippers!). When he sees us, he checks up to see if we need anything.

Duncan the karaoke star!

We've taken the train several times. Sometimes Pat is the ticket agent, but the one we've dealt with most is Duncan, an absolute joy to talk to. He wants us to know he's five months short of retiring, and has invited us to hear him sing karaoke--an invitation we've yet to accept. When I asked to take his photo, he ran out and stood on the train and took his glasses off. What a hoot!

Robin isn't smiling here, but he usually does!

We've only been able to attend St. Andrew's Scottish Episcopal Church twice, but the parishioners have been so welcoming! Tim has great stories about hiking and WWII. Robin makes sure we understand various traditions, and shares great jokes.

Ann--big smile, big heart

When we went to the Highland Games, we had a Servas visit with Ann, who has a ready smile and a big heart. We had a marvelous walk around the city of Dunblane, where she told us some of its history.

Olena and her son Roman

When refugees began arriving from Ukraine, Ann took in Olena. As she put it, "I was just rattling around in this big house." She gives Olena space and encouragement, and welcomes visits from Olena's son, Roman, who lives a few towns away. The two of them went with us to the Bridge of Allan Highland Games, and, with the help of Roman and Google translate, Olena explained some of the finer points of the tossing of the caber! Her English is not bad, but like many immigrants, she's embarrassed. I can't imagine learning English in my 60's! And yes, I know she doesn't look 60+!

Not only does Máiri have a beautiful name; she's beautiful as well!

Next door to our apartment building is the Lillie Art Gallery. A week or so ago we popped in to see their temporary exhibit of Alistair Strathern's collages, created during Covid lockdown in Glasgow. We were moved by his work, and spent some time talking to Máiri, whose friendly smile and demeanor welcome you to the gallery. I was also intrigued by some of the youth exhibits and some of the artwork for sale. She took lots of time talking both about Strathern's work and the local artists who show their work there. Like so many others we've met, she takes great pride in her part of this Scottish world.

Graeme and his Harris Hawk

One afternoon we took a "Taste of Falconry" class at Strathblane Falconry. We got to interact with owls, a falcon, and a hawk. Graeme was professional and a good teacher, reminding us several times about the proper stance so the magnificent birds felt safe landing on our arms. 

Debbie (L) and Haley

I signed up for several yoga classes at Yoga Jo's, and was delighted with the instruction from Debbie and Haley, very caring teachers. If I struggled to understand their charming brogues, it wasn't their fault. They always seemed to have time afterwards to say a few words to me and check up on how I felt.

My talented friend Brad

It wasn't just the friendly Scots, though. I found out through Facebook that a former student, Brad, was bringing his college students to the Edinburgh Fringe to perform a show he wrote! So we hopped a train to the big city, caught his creative show, and had some time to talk. I was as proud as you can imagine.

Alizay (L) & Saamia

On one of our John Muir Way walks, we met two young women, Alizay and Saamia, pre-med students at Baylor who are in England for their semester abroad. (Alizay was born in the town where we used to live in Georgia!) They had taken a day trip to see Loch Lomond and take the bus a bit further to see the Highland Cattle. The bus never showed, but, being parents and grandparents, and hating to see them miss part of their one day, we drove them up to Luss. We're not that cool--it was only fifteen minutes.

There are others, and I'm sure there'll be more in our last few days, but once again, these people will stay with us for years to come.

Walking in Scotland

Ted. St. Augustine said, “It is solved by walking.” Judy and I find that whatever ails us, be it physical, mental or spiritual, we can help the situation by taking a walk.

Scotland has thousands of walking trails. 1980 saw the opening of the first official long distance walk. Dubbed the West Highland Way, it stretched 90 miles from Milngavie to Fort William. There are now more than 30 long walks scattered across the country. 

Back in 2014, Judy and I learned that a new one, the John Muir Way had opened. 130 miles long, it takes one clear across Scotland from Helensburgh to Dunbar (Muir’s birthplace). We immediately began discussing the possibility of a doing a walk across Scotland.

Since that time, we have talked ourselves out of one long continuous walk but decided that day hiking would be an important part of our visit to Scotland. Thus, it is not a coincidence that our Scottish home base is Milngavie. At the southern terminus of the West Highland Way, the John Muir Way passes within 4 miles of here.

The WHW starts 2 blocks from our apartment

The Campsie Fells from the JMW, 5 miles from Milngavie

Plus, there are dozens of other lovely small walks nearby. Roughly every other day now, we head out to a nearby town and do a 6 - 8 mile roundtrip walk into the countryside.

A bit of the Roman Antonine Wall (142 AD)

Forth & Clyde Canal

A beach on Loch Lomond

We often walk the West Highland Way or John Muir Way but sometimes simply walk in a nearby forest. 

Mugdock Reservoir

Mugdock Castle

 We like to end our walk with a tea and scone!

There are lots of castles, museums and other sights in this country but we find country walks to be one of the best ways to spend a day. And whatever worries us, gets resolved - at least for a moment.

Loch Lomond from Conic Hill