Riga, Latvia

Ted. While our primary focus this month is on Lithuania, we decided to spend three days in nearby Latvia just to get a sense of the differences and similarities between these two Baltic nations. In recent months, good train service has begun to link Poland and the three Baltic countries so it was a simple matter to take a four hour train ride to the capital city of Riga. 

One of the immediate differences one notices on crossing the border is the language. Latvian is somewhat similar to Lithuanian but I have read that is like saying that English is similar to Dutch. Both are Baltic languages but there are many differences. In addition, one hears a LOT of Russian in Latvia which is definitely not the case in Lithuania. 

One of the consequences of the takeover by the Soviet Union in 1944 is that many Russians moved to the Baltic countries. They seemed to really like Latvia because today only 66% of the population speaks Lithuanian as a first language while 24% speak Russian (and it’s just 5% in Lithuania). To counter this cultural conflict, the government has made Latvian the only official language so all government matters and education take place in Latvian. Now, the shoe is on the other foot and Russian speakers have to learn Latvian to survive. That must really irritate the folks who grew up in the USSR. 

One day we toured the former headquarters of the KGB, known to locals as The Corner House. That explained a lot. 

The Corner House

Another big difference from Lithuania is religion. Latvia was dominated by the Teutonic Knights during their crusades against the Baltic pagans. They invited German traders and Riga soon became a Hanseatic city/state. With the Reformation, the German speakers became Protestants and Latvia has been a predominately Lutheran country ever since. While the churches are a mix of Catholic, Lutheran and Orthodox, most are Lutheran. Notably absent are synagogues. As in most of Europe, the large Jewish population was virtually wiped out by the Germans. We will do another post on this topic later. 

St Peter's Lutheran Church

Orthodox church

During our three days, we explored the old town and the new town. I thought it was better preserved than Vilnius (less war damage) and there are lots of charming cobblestone streets and old buildings. 

One evening, we dropped into the Legs or Tears Wine Bar for a drink and a snack. Business was slow so we were able to have a long conversation with the bartender, Christina, who taught us a lot. As a proud Latvian, she has little sympathy for the Russians who arrived in her country uninvited. 

Christina

If you look at a map, you will see that Russia, the Russian enclave of Kaliningrad and Russia’s satellite, Belarus virtually surround little Latvia and Lithuania. Roughly 1/3 of the population in both countries has emigrated since the death of the Soviet Union but those who remain, as well as the many who have returned, feel confident about the future. Their attitude toward their aggressive neighbor reminds me of the defiant mouse in the old cartoon. May God bless them all!

Vilnius

Ted. Judy had visited Moscow twice back in the mid 1990's but this was my first trip to a part of the former Soviet Union. When our Polish friends offered to take us to visit Vilnius, the capital of Lithuania, I was curious to see how much looked liked the rest of Europe and how much looked like my imagined vision of the old USSR. 

On our way to Vilnius, Robert said that we had to make on stop first. Trakai, the 14th century capital of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania, is famous for its beautiful island castle.

No, I don't own a drone. This photo is from the internet

During his reign, Grand Duke Vytautas invited a number of Karaite families to move from Crimea to Trakai and their presence is still felt. 

Kariate houses have three windows across the front

This fascinating sect has their own language and practices a form of Judaism that dates back to 8th century Mesopotamia. We had lunch at a Karaite restaurant and enjoyed their stuffed pastries called kibinai. We finished with their “national drink,” a glass of krupnik. This is a sweet, spiced flavored vodka that my Polish grandpa used to make at Christmas. 

After this pleasant stop, we arrived in Vilnius, a city that has been a very important to Poles since 1569 when Poland and Lithuania were united. Even today, the first language of 6% of the population of Lithuania is Polish. Many historic markers in Vilnius are written in Lithuanian and Polish. I was surprised to find that, in spite of the cultural ties, there are virtually no similarities between Polish (a West Slavic language) and Lithuanian (an East Baltic language). 

Vilnius was founded in 1323 by Grand Duke Gedminas who moved his capital here.

A drunken Grand Duke being nudged home?

The castle tower which bears his name is still an important symbol of the city. 

In 1989, over two million people joined hands to create The Baltic Way, a human chain from Tallinn, Estonia, through Riga, Latvia, to the Gedminas Tower in Vilnius; a peaceful protest of the occupation by the Soviet Union of these three little countries. This brave action by approximately 1/4 of the total population led to independence for all three countries within the next two years. 

Roman Catholicism is the primary religion in both Poland and Lithuania so the two peoples share many shrines. Interestingly, Poland became officially Christian in 966 AD but Lithuania was the last European pagan country and didn’t become officially Christian until 1387. Vilnius is known as The City of 1,000 Churches and we visited a bunch of them. The Gate of Dawn is a major pilgrimage site for Catholics from around the world. 

The shrine is above a gate to the city

Independent thinker Judy loved strolling through Užpis, a quirky little neighborhood that, like Christiania in Copenhagen, declared itself a republic in 1997. Allegedly, they wrote their constitution in about three hours. 

Robert made sure we got to visit the central market where I drooled at all of the smoked meat stalls. 

After that, we were all starving so Robert guided us a nearby kosher restaurant which is about all that is left of a once thriving Jewish neighborhood (more about that in another post). 

Judy, Ania, Robert and I saw lots of beautiful buildings and cozy neighborhoods in our three day visit. There was still lots of Stalinist architecture to be found but the Lithuanians are creating a bold forward looking capital of which they can be proud.

The New Town

Sugihara House

Judy. Ok, I’m going to post out of sequence here, because a couple of days ago Ted and I experienced something profound. 

Sugihara House in Kaunas

One of the “musts” listed on several Kaunas travel sites is the Sugihara House, the home and Consul office of Chiune Sugihara, Japanese diplomat (and spy) sent in the 1930’s to Kaunas, to keep an eye on the Nazis and Soviets. Both countries were sending troops toward Lithuania, and Japan wanted to know what was going on. Poles, both Christian and Jewish, were pouring into the country, fearing reprisals by both groups. When the Soviets moved into Lithuania in 1940, the refugees panicked, knowing they had to find a way to leave. 

Sign inside the front door

But where to? Palestine was controlled by the British, and they had closed borders, and the US, too, refused to accept war immigrants. Somehow, groups of them wound up in front of the Consul, begging for visas. Chiune, his wife Yukiko, and even their oldest son realized they had a moral obligation to help. But, how? 

Sugihara, his family and his secretary, Wolfgang Gudze

It’s all very complicated, but the Dutch colony, Curaçao, could be reached without a visa, and from there, it would be easier to immigrate—to Japan, Palestine, the US, Shanghai, etc. Sugihara received permission to write a certain number of transit visas to Curaçao. When those were gone, he asked his government’s permission to write more. Told no, he did it anyway. 

In just six days, he wrote over 2,000 transit visas. Because some of them were for families, it’s estimated he saved over 6,000 lives. Even as he and his family were forced to leave, he was handing out transit visas. 

Transit visa

There’s a lot to the story, and I suggest you look for more info—there are documentaries, fictional accounts (Night Angels), and a 2015 movie, “Persona Non Grata.” 

BUT—that’s not the only reason I’m telling you this. Ted and I visited the Sugihara House, knowing only that he had saved many people from the Nazis and the Soviets. Ramūnas, the director, suggested we watch a short film about Sugihara’s work. Then he showed us around the ground-floor living quarters. All through the museum there are tiny hand signs that signal that a exhibit is interactive. We read about how his father wanted him to be a doctor, and kicked him out when he refused. We learned that he was a Samurai through his mother’s lineage. We “met” his second wife, Kikuyo, a poet in her own right. 

The living room. Each of the framed photos opened to offer more information.

Next door was the “war room’’ with videos and recordings of what was leading up to the war. 

As we walked down the stairs to the Consul offices, we saw actual photos of some of those he helped, and heard their names. 

Some of those saved

In a side room, we read stories of Lithuanians who tried to help Jews. In Sugihara’s office, we saw what a transit visa looked like, and across the hall, we could have our photo put on one. 

My photo on a facsimile transit visa

Ted at Sugihara's desk

Along a second stairwell we saw photos of descendants of those he saved, and heard recordings of them saying their own names and the names of their ancestors saved. 

Descendants of the survivors

All this, because in a most un-Japanese manner, Chiune Sugihara broke the rules—the LAW—and did the humane thing. We all know about Schindler, but the name Sugihara has not been as widely acclaimed. 

This is a story of courage, of doing the right thing, no matter the consequences. And I applaud this small group of four who make sure we know about it: Ramūnas; and Jurgita, the CEO; Rokas, the museum curator; and Jenny, who has designed an audio tour leading the way from the hotel to the Consul, so you can learn what the refugees felt. They’re designing programs for school children to learn about this remarkable man and the time in history, doing all they can to keep this story and this museum alive. And they all made us feel welcome and at home. 

With Jurgita and Ramūnas

I am in awe of Chiune and Kikuyo Sugihara. And I’m also in awe of Ramūnas, Jurgita, Rokas, and Jenny. You can learn more on Facebook and Instagram. The Sugihara House.

A plaque at the Kaunas train station

The Sugiharas in later years

Kaunas, Lithuania

Ted. After our long weekend in Oslo, it was time to move on to our next extended stay destination. Judy and I have never been to the three Baltic countries so we decided to devote this part of 2025 to exploring a bit of Lithuania and Latvia. We also wanted to make a short trip to see our friends in Białystok, Poland. 

Kaunas, the second largest city in Lithuania, proved to be the ideal base. There is a lot of history here and the buildings are beautiful. It is also strategically located with easy connections via highway and railway to the other destinations we had in mind. 

After taking a short flight from Oslo to Vilnius, the capital of Lithuania, we rented a car and made the 1-1/4 hour drive to Kaunas. Our home for four weeks now is a very nice Airbnb that is within walking distance of most local sites. We still have a car for more distant exploration. 

The day after we arrived, our long time Polish friends, Robert and Ania made the drive to Kaunas to spend a few days with us. 

Borders in this part of the world are notoriously fluid. Five hundred years ago, Poland and Lithuania were united into a single country. Incorporating parts of modern day Germany, Russia, Belarus, Ukraine and the Baltic countries, it was one of the largest kingdoms in Europe. By 1795, though, Poland and Lithuania had ceased to exist. The twentieth century saw them reappear but the borders moved repeatedly. However, the culture, food, language and traditions of the region have remained stubbornly in place over the years. It was fun to have Robert as our tour guide, explaining the fascinating history of Kaunas. I won’t go into any detail but Wikipedia has a nice summary. Judy and I look forward to more adventures in this small country with a bright future.

Flag of Lithuania

Oslo

Judy. When one flies from Edinburgh, Scotland, to Vilnius, Lithuania, one has to change planes in Oslo, Norway. So, it seemed only logical to spend a couple of days in the capital city of a country that we found beautiful and fascinating. Rumor on the street is that it's outrageously expensive, but we decided to give it a go anyway, and were surprised to find it no more expensive that London or Paris.

Our son Stefan had a Norwegian friend in high school, Christian, who now works for Norwegian tourism. We contacted him before we left and he kindly gave us a huge list of places to visit, and he and his charming wife Lene, agreed to meet us for lunch one day.

Christian's best suggestion--and we highly recommend it to anyone going--is to buy an Oslo Pass. As seniors, this cost us the equivalent of $75 each for three days, and was an all-access pass to city travel (including the train from the airport into town) and entry fees to all the museums. (The cost of the Munch Museum alone was $22.)

The massive Munch

An early version of "The Scream"

We arrived in the late afternoon, and after checking into our hotel, hopped a city bus to the Munch. As you can see, the museum is massive, and is absolutely dedicated to the prolific works of Edvard Munch, Norway's most famous painter. We explored two of the four galleries, one of which included three of his earlier versions of "The Scream." Then we headed up to the twelfth floor for wine, snacks, and an incredible view of the harbor. A couple of glasses and terrific charcuterie board later, we walked along the harbor front and back to our hotel in a drizzling rain.

Loved this ship sculpture in the harbor

The next morning was much brighter, so after a great breakfast at our hotel, we walked to the Akerhus, the fort and castle of Oslo. Inside the fort is the Resistance Museum, which tells the story of their resistance during the Nazi occupation of WWII. Both of us were deeply moved at the courage of the people there (Christian's grandfather was imprisoned on the grounds as a member of the Resistance.)  It's a story of true courage.

The castle inside the Akerhus

A street plaque--a reminder of the Nazi occupation

Afterwards, we lightened the mood a bit and took a tram to the Ibsen Museum and Apartment. As an actor, I've always been a fan of his work--very much ahead of his time. An Enemy of the People could be true anywhere today. I hadn't realized, though, that Ibsen also was a favorite son of Norway.

Gotta admire those iconic mutton chops

Ibsen's study

His name is still on the mailbox. Yes, I'm a fangirl.

A quick stop for sushi, and on to the National Museum, which houses the art collection. I was intrigued by an installation by a Sami artist of 400 reindeer skulls with the bullet holes visible. This is a protest piece by the artist of the government's demand that her brother cull his herd.  Another area that interested me was in textile and design.

400 reindeer skulls 

A Norwegian design

Theatre nerd that I am, I convinced Ted to go with me to the Oslo Theatre Museum, which has been moved to a large park housing other historical items. It was tricky to find--down one set of stairs, up another, across the museum, up another set of stairs... There was a very small but complete exhibit of posters, set designs, and costumes from the Opera and the National Theatre.

Costumes from a performance of Anne of a Thousand Days

Outside that park was a cafe where we took a break before heading next door to the Vigeland Installation in Frogner Park. Gustof Vigeland was an  artist who sculpted 212  human figures of all ages in all manner of emotions. There is a bridge along which is lined bronze statues, and the wide pathway leads up to a granite installation. It's the most visited place in Norway. By the way, Vigeland designed the Nobel Peace Prize Medal.

Worn out, we headed back to the hotel, but I had one more visit to make. While Ted went to the room, I wandered back to the Opera House, to climb the sloped roof to the top--along with about a hundred other tourists. But it was glorious.

An easy climb with great views

On Saturday morning, we took the ferry across the Oslo Fjord to see two maritime museums--the Fram and the Kon-tiki.

A surprise awaited us onshore, an Inukshuk from Canada. We're where we're meant to be!

Neither of us knew anything about the Fram, a Norwegian ship specially designed to withstand ice packs in the Arctic . The hull was rounded so that the ice wouldn't crush it. Three voyages were made:  to Greenland, to the Arctic, and to Antarctica. The coolest part is that we could walk all over the ship and see how the men lived on it. The room was even dark with videos of what the weather would have been like. 

When I was in high school--maybe you, too-- we read Kon-tiki, Thor Heyerdahl's remarkable story of building and sailing a balsa raft from South America to the Polynesian Islands. To see the actual raft was mind-blowing. Furthermore, I had no idea he later built the Ra II of papyrus reed to sail from the west coast of Africa to Barbados. That raft, too, is on display.

I love this quote!

The real Kon-tiki

Then it was time to head back to the city to meet Christian and Lene for conversation and a real Norwegian meal!

Lene and Christian

We'd not seen each other in years, but any awkwardness of the opening talk quickly gave way to stories of their lives. Lene is a special ed teacher, and I loved hearing about her students and how her school operates. Both love Oslo, and were glad we'd enjoyed it so much.  To our pleasant surprise, when lunch was over, they offered to show us around a bit more. 

Phone booths have become Little Free Libraries

Parliament

The king said, "THIS is where Oslo will be!"

After our fish lunch, they took us for coffee and treats at a pastry shop, then to a memorial honoring those killed by a monster who first set off a bomb near government buildings, then, dressed as a policeman, went to an island where teenagers were at a camp and mowed them down. I remember when that happened, but the horror of it hit us again. The killers name is never mentioned, and he remains in prison.

A moving monument

The monument is deeply moving--a glass wall with the names of the victims. Instead of mulch or grass around the trees, there is glass from the buildings that were blown up.

Eventually it was time to send them home, and for us to take a train to the airport hotel, as we had an 8 AM flight to Vilnius. Being with Lene and Christian really made the trip complete, and I don't think I can thank them enough for advice, and for spending so much time with us.

We didn't even scratch the surface of Oslo. It is a beautiful city with a fascinating history. I believe I could willingly return!

Oslo has a great sense of humor. These are public toilets! Gotta love it.