Turning Japanese

Judy. When we started this journey nine and a half years ago, I decided to study languages. Since I was no longer learning lines, it would not only be useful for our travels, but keep my brain sharp as well. Duolingo, despite its flaws, was a good choice for me, since it was easy to use on my iPad. 

It has worked out well. I’m pretty darned conversational in Spanish and French. So last summer, knowing we’d be coming to Japan, I started learning Japanese. 

WHOA! As you’ve probably already guessed, Japanese is a whole different ball game. Nine months in, I’m borderline useless. I remember some words, and have made connections by telling restaurant personnel that their food is delicious (one chef came out to meet us and bowed us all the way to the door!), and have struggled to speak with Miyo, the delightful lady who owns the Korean restaurant we have frequented. We’ve spent some time with our dear Servas friend, Wakaba, and her mother, Jitsuko, a 91-year-old ball of fire. Wakaba corrected some of my attempts, which was great. She’s offered to chat with me on the web, and I may take her up on that after I take a break.

 

Wakaba and Jitsuko-san work on our proper requests at a tempura restaurant

Somehow Miyo and I managed to converse!

Those times are where I’ve made my best advances. In Spanish-speaking countries, the intercambios, where one speaks for a period in Spanish, then English, have helped tremendously. But I’ve not had that opportunity with Japanese. And it IS difficult. Quite honestly, the hardest part is reading it. 

Japanese has three writing systems: hiragana, katakana, and kanji. These three symbols can appear in the same sentence, or even the same word. Hiragana and katakana each have  46 letters, but kanji is the rogue brother who came over from China and added thousands of symbols that make no sense whatsoever unless you were born here. 

This town's name is written in English, katakana & kanji combined, and in hiranga

Restaurant is spelled out in katakana

One thing that helps is that katakana is used mostly with foreign words and scientific terms, like dress or toast, or even the word for computer which is not borrowed from the English. After six months, I'm okay with hiragana and katakana, but very few kanji symbols stick with me. 

And, just for fun, sometimes western letters are tucked in as in the word for medium size

Furthermore, the words are not separated, butrunonlikearunonsentence. Plus, old-school Japanese is written vertically, although now much is written horizontally. And of course, books are backwards to the western way of thinking.

Old school vertical sign

Hard to see, but this commuter is reading vertically, and "back to front"

Still, despite the difficulty, I’m glad I’m trying. The few words I’ve spoken have elicited smiles and bows and responses. And the language itself is an insight into Japanese culture. Respect is a key word here in Japan, and it’s reflected in the language as well. Despite the yelling in Samurai films, people here speak fairly gently, and certainly respectfully. 

So, despite my flubs, I’m glad I try, because the smiles and help have eased my way. Not everyone here speaks English—something that scared us when we started. But smiles, “Japenlish” and Google Translate have helped us really enjoy this appealing culture. 

And, as I remind myself, “What do you call someone with a foreign accent? Brave.” I’m trying to be brave.

Matsumoto...and more

Ted. From Kyoto we journeyed northeast to explore a bit of an area known as the Japanese Alps. 

The city of Matsumoto lies on a plain, pretty much surrounded by mountains. With good rail service, we parked ourselves at a nice hotel near the station for six days so were able to explore the town and take easy day trips, one of which I briefly mentioned in my previous post. 

With a population of only about 250,000, Matsumoto is not a big town but it is known for a couple of things. 

It has one of Japan’s great castles. We were pleased to find that local volunteers provide free tours so we learned a lot about its history. 

I got busted by security but talked my way out!

With Hiro, our 84 year old guide

View from the top

The artist, Yayoi Kusama is from here and the local art museum has a large exhibit devoted to her works. We saw an installation of hers at the Guggenheim Museum in Bilboa, Spain several years ago and were blown away. By the way - she’s 97 and still working! 

One day, Judy and I ventured to nearby Narai-juku, a famous town on Nakasendo which was one of the five roads connecting Kyoto with Edo (modern day Tokyo) centuries ago. I loved the local lacquerware and admired the trays every restaurant used so we visited a craftsman’s shop and picked up a couple. 

A bit of the old road

My Google Translate camera told me this was a soba shop

Our noodles, served on lacquerware trays

On another time, we took trains to Suwa and Nagano. The first was a small town on a legendary lake of the same name. 

Suwa Lakeside Park

Lakeside foot bath, ahhhh!

Nagano's claim to fame is that it hosted the 1998 Winter Olympic games. We were getting tired at that point so didn’t linger. 

My best memories of Matsumoto? There were virtually no tourists. Also, the hotel had an onsen (public bath) so I was able to learn about - and savor this important aspect of Japanese culture. Lastly, we got to meet Miyo, the Japanese-Korean owner of a Korean restaurant we stumbled into one night. Since her lifelong partner passed away a few years ago, she has operated this place by herself, greeting guests, cooking, waiting tables and cleaning everything up at the end of the night. All at the age of 63! She and Judy really connected and we had lots of chats using Google translate. After our last meal there, through hugs and tears she asked us to please come back one day. We’ll see…

Japanese trains

 Ted. At the suggestion of a Servas member we know in Athens named Melora, we splurged and bought 21 day Japan Rail Passes. I was’t sure we would use them enough to justify the $650 per person cost. However, they are turning out to be a great investment. They allow us to hop on any train at the last minute and go wherever we want. 

Judy and I had planned a day journey to Hiroshima but we have taken several more day trips as you can see. One day, we just wanted a better view of the mountains so we took a 55 minute train to a nearby town where we got up close and personal with the Hida Mountains. On the trip home, we ate our bento box lunch while enjoying the views. 

View from our train in Omachi

On many trains, we can reserve seats at no cost which ensures we have good seats waiting for us. On other trains, there is a light system over each seat. A red light means that seat is available, green means it is reserved so don’t sit there. 

There are super fast luxurious trains, rapid intercity trains and local trains. One thing they have in common is that they all run on time, making your trip easy to plan. Google maps does a good job helping to figure out which trains to take (even telling you which platform to head to). 

Shinkansens travel up to 200 mph

We enjoyed these superplush seats on one train

More typical express train seats 

Local trains are still clean and neat

All have clean bathrooms with heated toilet seats

The urinals are rarely in use and never stink!

Towels are never provided at Japanese sinks

We do get confused at times but the railroad staff and locals are quite helpful. Every train is neat, tidy and quiet - a real pleasure to ride. The trains, subways and buses, always announce the stops in Japanese and English which really helps. 

We have ridden on many good public transportation systems over the years and I have always thought that the Spanish trains are the best, but I have to say that the Japanese may be even better!

Hiroshima

Judy. Visiting Hiroshima has long been on my list. Visiting now, with a new war started, and the resulting death of citizens made it a pilgrimage. 

Friends who’ve been here have told me how peaceful it is, and I would agree. Even the art museum is a quiet, meditative place, and the artwork chosen exudes tranquility and joy. Each of the monuments in the Peace Park speak to its past horror and hope for the future. No one was a winner here, but here you feel hope, despite it all.

Shukkeien Garden, dating to the 16th century

Monument in Shukkiein Garden with ashes of victims of the Hiroshima bomb 

Two trees that survived the bombing, despite being close to the epicenter

Even the artwork in the museum speaks to peace

The bomb exploded above this science building, incinerating all inside. The shrine is in front of it.

Monument to the students who died. They had been pulled from school to work in factories for the army. The Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama had to work in a parachute factory, and has used her art to deal with her resulting mental problems.

Children's Memorial Park

Eternal flame, with prayers that it may never happen again.

Osaka

 Ted. Mention Osaka to most Westerners and they would think of the castle. And that's not wrong. It's awesome.

Mention the city to someone who has been there and they think of food - especially in the neighborhood called Dotombori. We visited the city on a quick day trip from Kyoto and spent most of our time in this crazy place.

This is around 1:00 on a Wednesday!!

The restaurants all have wild signs designed to draw in diners.

It's not cool to walk around eating

Golf ball size dumplings filled with octopus

Seafood pancakes

1,000 yen is about $6! Not bad

Ask a Japanese person what Osaka is know for, and they'll say their sense of humor. Here's an example; "In Kyoto, the locals go bankrupt buying kimonos. In Osaka, the locals go broke buying food." Gotta love it!