The road west

Ted. Judy and I knew we’d get itchy feet after a few weeks back in the US so we decided to take a road trip west to visit with friends and family and, once again, marvel at how beautiful our own country truly is. 

Early Wednesday morning, May 14, we piled our stuff into Raymond, our beloved 2004 Toyota Tundra pickup truck, and hit the road. On the way to our first destination, we enjoyed one of our favorite road trip activities - eating like locals. You can’t get any more local than Gus’s Hot Dogs in Adamsville, Alabama. Based in Birmingham, they are a local legend. 

Arriving that evening in Memphis, we met up with Judy’s older brother Billy and nephew Marty for dinner at a Moroccan restaurant and I had my first couscous in a while. After lots of catchup conversation and hugs it was off to bed. 

The next morning found us back on the road and we stopped at the Sugar Shack in West Fork, Arkansas for lunch. They featured a very limited menu and were not taking credit cards that day because “It’s over 100 degrees in the shack and the machine don’t work when it’s this darned hot!” Still - the food was good. 

One of Judy’s good friends lives near Wichita, Kansas so we ended our day with a home cooked meal at Terry’s. 

In the morning, I left Judy to visit for a couple more days and drove solo to Colorado, stopping for tacos at a food truck in the town of Burlington. Again, it was cash only so I forked over my remaining $7 and was handed two tacos. 

Over the next couple days, I visited with my two sisters and their husbands and also met long time friend Rick for ribs and beer. 

Ted & Cindy (I forgot to get a photo with Kathy)

On Sunday afternoon, I drove to the Denver airport, meeting Judy who flew from Wichita. We flew together to Seattle to spend a few days with good friends Terry & Sue. One day we explored the Nisqually National Wildlife Refuge. 

Wednesday morning we bid farewell and flew back to Denver, where Raymond the truck waited patiently. The next morning we met for breakfast with Rick and Margot before heading east to Kansas.

Lunch was at a Mexican mom and pop in Colby with a name that translates as “Like at home” and then it was on to Topeka.

 Our wedding anniversary dinner consisted of deli sandwiches and wine in the lobby of our hotel where we chatted with the assistant manager, Jahy.

The next day was another long drive, crossing the Missouri, Mississippi and Ohio Rivers before ending up at our hotel in Ft Campbell, Kentucky where we enjoyed a Vietnamese dinner.

Our last stop was at our son Stefan’s house on the west side of Atlanta. After a fun night playing with his two boys we made the final push to Athens on Sunday, May 25. 

As we relaxed over a celebratory glass of vintage Madeira wine, we concluded that the 11 day journey was well worthwhile but also exhausting. No more expeditions are planned till we leave for Europe on July 8!

Packing

Judy.  In March when I visited my friend Emma in Valencia, she reminded me that she'd asked us several times if we'd write a blog on how we pack. She was impressed that for my 3-day stay with her I'd come with only a daypack. Truth is, Ryanair charges more if you use an overhead bin, and even more if you check a bag. Over the years, we've learned to be frugal in our clothing.

For a long weekend, it's easy enough. I wore a pair of hiking slacks, and packed three shirts, underwear, a t-shirt to sleep in, my iPad, and toiletries. I also wore my trusty raincoat/windbreaker, and a scarf, a trick I learned from Europeans. There was no one to impress--Emma's a dear friend. Comfort was the name of the game--that, and keeping it small. Keeping an eye on the weather helped me know how little I could get away with. The pack measures 10"x 18".

My little day pack...

...and what was in it

For longer trips, like to Malta, Ted and I share a small rollaboard, and he takes the small daypack for incidentals. For those trips, it's worth it to pay Ryanair for the overhead space. With no place (besides the sink) to do quick laundry, I take a bit more. Sometimes there are souvenirs to bring back, and I can use the space. That little case measures 15" x21", and it can expand if need be.

My side of the rollaboard

For our 3-4 month trips, we each take a large suitcase. Mine measures 19"x25" and can expand. (We also take the rollaboard with a change of clothes in case our luggage gets lost.)

The cloth bins fit nicely

A zippered compartment for dresses

I am a huge fan of cloth packable bins to keep organized, and I have four: one for shirts, one for pants and skirts, one for swimsuits and exercise clothing, and one for underwear. (Ted uses one as our "junk drawer," with first-aid supplies, wine opener, wine stoppers, etc.) They fit neatly in the case, and odds and ends, like my makeup bag, fit in between them. I also usually carry watercolors and colored pencils and paper to play with at our destination. In my bag there's a lovely zippered section where my dresses can fit.

We're always aware of the 50 pound weight limit, and have a portable luggage scale to keep us from paying excess baggage fees. It has saved us from previous anxious moments when we were juggling items from one case to another.

My big suitcase and the rollaboard

Eight years ago, when this started, I actually had a smaller suitcase and took less. Then I got in a bad habit of thinking, "Oh, but I LOVE this. Maybe I'll get a chance to wear it!" This resulted in leaving clothes in the second hand shops as we picked up souvenirs. Now I'm much better, packing a slightly larger version of my clothes for Valencia. And there are always second-hand shops. In Australia, it was hotter than I thought it would be, so I bought two sundresses for less than $10 American. When we got ready to leave, back they went to charity shops. 

Sometimes it's tricky, like this summer when we'll be in Norway, Scotland, Lithuania, and Bordeaux, France, and there will be different weather patterns. But we layer when need be, and buy used when we need to.  

I still have too much stuff. I'm still working on simplicity. But carrying just enough to get me through is a good life lesson.

 

Festivals and processions, Spanish style

Judy. As you can probably tell from previous posts about Carnaval and Semana Santa, the Spanish people seem to love their festivals and their processions. On this visit, I experienced two more: Fallas, in Valencia, and Jesús ante Anás in El Palo.

Well, I didn't actually experience Fallas; I was there a few days late, but my good friend Emma made sure I learned as much as I could.

With Emma in the beautiful city of Valencia

Emma was my neighbor when we lived in Atlanta. Born in Puerto Rico, she often traveled to Spain, mostly to Catalonia, to do family research. About a year ago, she decided to move to Valencia, and after much paperwork and much downsizing, she arrived, and, typical of Emma, jumped right in, joining groups and reading up on her new city. While we were in Málaga, she invited me over for the weekend.

I had just missed Fallas, a celebration of St. Joseph's Day (which is also Father's Day in Spain, as he's the patron saint of dads), and occurs from 15-19 March, with fireworks all around those dates. This is one of UNESCO's "intangible cultural heritages," and looks to be incredible. The whole city parties in native clothing. Each neighborhood spends the year raising money and building a float or falla, which is topped with ninots, or human carved figures in some sort of satirical jab based on a theme. These fallas are toured through the city and taken to a huge representation of the Virgin  (Our Lady of the Forsaken), covered in flowers. Then all but one are burned (fallas means "torches"). The ninots from the one saved are then placed in the Fallas Museum. And that's what I got to see, along with the Virgin minus her flowers. But these guys were well worth the museum visit!

Virgin Mary in the Main Square, minus her flowers

One of the posters now in the museum

In some of these, it's easier to see what's being said: the sweeping away of knowledge, balancing through life under Franco, a hungry grandmother holding her hungry grandchild. Others seem to celebrate a simpler time.

Back in El Palo (a suburb of Málaga), I'd seen posters for Jesús Ante Anás to be held March 29, but assumed it was to be in the little church there. That evening, though, we heard a band and immediately recognized it as a procession, so we dashed down the street in time to catch the solemn parade of the trono of Jesus before Annas, the father-in-law of the high priest Caiaphas, the first step in Jesus's movement to the cross. 

As you can see, it has many of the elements of the Semana Santa processions, on a much smaller scale. Still, the Hermanidad gave it every bit as much importance in this little village/suburb, and the citizens turned out in droves to see the men and women carry that trono up the steep hill. In some of the photos you can see the pain on their faces.

It's these surprising cultural events that really round out our time in other countries. Sometimes it's a surprise, and sometimes it's planned, but it always gives us a better understanding of another way of life.

Megalithic Malta

Ted. Judy and I were astounded by the age and magnificence of old temples that are scattered across the two main islands of Malta. I won’t bore you with technical definitions like Megalithic and Neolithic but this stuff is old - damned old. We visited three sites plus the National Museum of Archaeology. Obviously, there is tons of information on the internet in case you would like more details but here's a little snapshot.

Ġgantija Temples

It is believed that construction began on this complex on the island of Gozo over 5,500 years ago! That is before Stonehenge or the pyramids of Egypt. Yeah, everything is kind of tumbled down but one can get a sense of the effort involved. Who built these and why? Wouldn’t we all like to know!

Ħal Tarxien Complex

Perhaps a tiny bit newer than Ġgantija, these ruins have been a little bit reconstructed and covered with a large tent.

Ħal Saflieni Hypogeum 

Hypogeum is a Greek word meaning “underground." All of these structures were carved below ground from solid limestone. The earliest rooms which are just below the surface are about as old as the other temples found on the island but more rooms were added in the following centuries further underground. The climate is carefully controlled and only 80 visitors are permitted each day so this is the hottest ticket in Malta. No photography is permitted but Judy snatched one image from a poster in the lobby. 

For Judy and me, glimpses of the ancient world, wherever we may  wander, serve to remind us of what a truly amazing planet it is that we all share.

"The Sleeping Lady" is cherished by all Maltese

6 things to love about Malta

Ted. Málaga is a great transportation hub so Judy and I love to take little side trips by train (Córdoba two weeks ago) or by plane. Last week we made our first visit to the island republic of Malta. 

The few people we know who have ever visited this tiny country said they really liked it. Here are a few reasons why we are now fans as well. 

The people

We found the Maltese to be very friendly and proud of their country. Sadly, with a population of less than 600,000, their unique language is dying out. Immigrants, who are pouring in, comprise around a quarter of the population now and that is accelerating the switch to English - the second official language. We did meet a number of immigrants who seem happy to be able to live here.

With Aaliyah, 100% Maltese

Ted with Milos, from Serbia

One morning we visited the weekly car boot sale. It was like a flea market for the United Nations. 

Car boot sale

Bilingual signage

The history 

I will do a separate post on mesolithic Malta but the recorded history, stretching from the Phoenicians to the Knights Hospitaller, sieges by the Ottomans and the Germans is all fascinating. 

Phoenician tomb, 700 BC

Legendary cave of Calypso (from the Odyssey)

La Guardiola of Fort St Michael, 16th century

Saluting battery begun in the 16th c. (Senglea on the right)

18th century windmill

Senglea

We chose to stay in this town. It’s one of the Three Cities - fortified towns across the Grand Harbour from the capital city of Valletta. It is really just a village and provides a peaceful respite from the hubbub. Modern ferries run back and forth to the Valletta but it is also fun to take one of the traditional dgħajjes. 

The Snop House

I can’t remember when we felt so pampered by a hotel. This tiny bed & breakfast is owned by a French couple who insist on buying local food and only hiring folks who were born and raised in Senglea. These employees taught us much of what we now know about the country. Oh it’s also cheaper than a Holiday Inn Express back home!

Evening wine (Maltese, of course) on the terrace

Co-Cathedral of St. John’s

I’m not that crazy about visiting churches and this one was certainly gaudy. It does have two of my favorite Caravaggio paintings, though. In addition, I loved the Chapel of Our Lady of Philermos. A guard only permitted admittance to those who wished to pray (or possibly just meditate) so it provided a tranquil retreat from the noisy throngs.

Baroque gone mad

St Jerome Writing

Gozo

Only about 5% of the population lives on Gozo, the second largest of the three inhabited islands that comprise the Republic of Malta. It is very rural and most of the country's food is grown here. It does have it’s own charms and is easily reached by an inexpensive 45 minute high speed ferry trip from Valletta. We explored the island on a hop-on hop-off bus but if we return, we would just travel from site to site by Uber as they are available everywhere.