Losing Sight of the Shore
"One does not discover new lands without consenting to lose sight of the shore for a very long time."
- André Gide
Tuesday, October 15, 2024
Our road trip continues
Saturday, October 12, 2024
Road trip
Judy. A couple of days after we arrived in Montpellier, our good friend Ben arrived from Prague for a road trip we'd been planning to take together. For some reason, I was curious to see Andorra, and our friends Björn and Malou had recommended some beautiful French towns to visit along the way.
We rented a car easily at the airport and headed first to hike up to some of the Cathar castle ruins, destroyed during the Albegensian Crusades. The views were said to be spectacular. Unfortunately, a thick fog had settled over the mountains, so instead of seeing two castles, we decided to go for one, Château de Quéribus, possibly the last one to fall. We arrived to see this scene:
It's there--somewhere |
So. On to more adventures. Lunch seemed like a great option, and just might lift our spirits, and at the next little town we managed to find a mom-and-pop restaurant filled with locals. The food was fine, but watching the family of owners deal with their friends and customers was worth it all.
Ben and I felt better after lunch |
Ben, who is a tour guide and a great planner, had a surprise up his sleeve to make up for the castle disappointment, and drove us to the Gorge of Galamus for a gorgeous view of the river and mountains and an Ermitage tucked neatly into a the terrain.
A great place to be a monk |
The guys hiked down into the gorge and to the Hermitage, but I decided that I was better off enjoying the scenery. The fog hadn't quite left yet...
But it was beautiful! |
So off we drove again through the countryside and into the Pyrenees Mountains. The fog lifted and from Col du Chioula Pass we had a sweeping view of the mountains ahead, as well as the grazing cattle, whose cowbells seemed to ring in harmony. Ok, that was cheesy.
More cowbell! |
Steam rising from the hot water |
People soaking feet in this hot springs pool, dating from 1260. It was for lepers... |
The following morning we headed higher into the Pyrenees and over Envalira Pass, which is the highest paved road in these mountains, and into Andorra.
Envalira Pass |
I have to admit, our first impression was that the entire country was a string of ski resorts. Couldn't even find a cafe for a much-needed coffee! I was ready to turn back, but Ben said, "Let's just go a little further." We reached the center of this tiny country, and--voilà! We found a nice cafe in the town of Canillo. The coffee was inexpensive and delicious, and, since we had paid for parking, we decided to walk around the town a bit.
What a surprise! Its history goes back hundreds of years, and some of the buildings have been preserved--a mill, by a stream, and a lovely church, San Serni de Canillo. I don't know who San Serni was, but the church was simple, rebuilt in the eighteenth century over a medieval church.
San Serni |
This mostly bare stone church held a medieval baptismal font and three elaborate 18th century retable. Outside was the so-called "Boundary Cross of Charlemagne," defining two other towns. Oddly enough, there were strange symbols in the street, which we found out were old cattle brands, which matched up with the same brands on houses. You knew whose cattle were whose!
A salute to times past |
Saturday, October 5, 2024
On to Montpellier
Thursday, October 3, 2024
Fun with family and friends (old and new)
Ted. We have met a lot of new and interesting people this year. We really enjoyed getting to know our VRBO hosts in Brussels - Yolanda, who is Dutch and her husband Simon, who is Lebanese. The four of us enjoyed a fabulous meal together at their favorite Lebanese restaurant.
But it has also been nice to reconnect with long time friends.
Back in the 70's, I worked on an American Army base in Germany with another young American named Don. He eventually married a French woman named Catherine and they settled down in a small French town on the border with Belgium. We have visited them every few years for decades now.
Don & Catherine at Château Beloeil |
We love eating great food and catching up in their beautiful old home but Catherine also arranges for us to take interesting excursions in the area.
Roman Ruins at Bavay, France |
Bell tower at Mons, Belgium |
A visit to Europe just isn't complete without a visit with our American nephew, Chris. He has a somewhat similar story to Don. Chris's company transferred him to Germany over 10 years ago and that insisted that he learn German. Darned if he didn't end up marrying his German teacher, a beautiful young woman named Dilyana. After postings in Italy and Hungary they are now settled back in Germany. We like visiting Chris and his family at their home but this year, Chris announced that he, Dilyana, and their sons Nicky and Mike would drive to Brussels to hang out with us.
Frederic Blondeel Chocolate Factory |
Nicky's hot chocolate moustache |
Mike works out in the park |
After spending so much time traveling on our own and getting to know new folks, it has also been wonderful to be embraced by people that we already know and love.
Tuesday, October 1, 2024
More adventures in Brussels
MMI is in a classic Art Deco Building |
Formerly a department store, cases are repurposed |
Tibetan instruments |
A portrait by Rembrandt |
Census at Bethlehem by Bruegel the elder |
One of dozens of copies made by his son |
Saturday, September 28, 2024
Chocolate
Judy. It's hard for a chocoholic like me to admit, but I had completely forgotten that Belgium is famous for its chocolates! I guess I got so used to Mexican chocolate that it slipped my mind--till I got here. In Brussels, there's no escaping it.
Chocolate may have been discovered and cultured in Mexico by the Olmec peoples, but it was for centuries only a drink for the gods. Of course we can all enjoy drinking it now, as well as eating bars of chocolate, and even cooking with it. The Mexican version is typically grainy, especially the candy, as sugar is added to it.
Yes, I do still have Mexican chocolate |
But in the 17th century the Abbot of Baudeloo Abbey in Ghent (at least according to legend) bought some chocolate, which had been brought to Flanders from Mesoamerica (the area was under Spanish occupation). It was, at that time, a drink only used as a tonic. Obviously, it caught on.
By the late 19th century, a method of making it smooth and creamy and able to surround tasty fillings was developed. The story goes that the chocolatier Côte d'Or was the first to make the popular confection popular today. In the 20th century, four other great chocolate manufacturers followed: Leonidas, Chocolaterie Mary, Neuhaus, and Godiva. Of course there are more, but these remain the "Big Five."
Named for the Gold Coast, or Ghana, where the chocolate came from |
You can even find Leonidas shops in Metro stations |
The only Mary shop I found |
But they have cute boxes |
Lots of Neuhaus shops |
Nice Neuhaus selections, too |
The factory around the corner |
And a shop far too close to our place |
So what makes Belgian chocolate so good? The "Visit Flanders" website says it comes down to the quality of the beans, the high cocoa and cocoa butter content, and the fineness of the powder. Unlike Swiss chocolate (also pretty darned delicious) Belgian chocolates are dark chocolate. Swiss, which uses the same fine powder, uses less cocoa and more sugar to make milk chocolate.
Leonidas is arguably the best seller, followed by Godiva. Godiva is now owned by a Turkish conglomerate, and Côte d'Or, by Kraft. While all have to be made in the country to be called "Belgian" chocolates, Leonidas, Mary, and Neuhaus are still actually owned by Belgian companies.
I first met this candy through Felix, a dear friend who immigrated from Belgium to the US in the 60's, and became a major part of our lives in the 70's and 80's. He died in the 90's, but the legacy of the Godiva chocolates he used to give us lives on. It's been a special treat for our family for years. AND there's a Godiva factory and outlet store near our apartment!
Proof I did a taste test |
There are dozens of other chocolatiers around town, especially in tourist areas.
Even a Manneken Pis shop |
BUT--a few blocks away is a small chocolate factory called Blondeel (see Blondeel). Our VRBO hostess told us about it, so we wandered down there one day a few weeks ago, and now we are hooked! They not only roast and blend their own chocolates, but also make pralines (candy with fillings like ginger, tarragon, or raspberry with basalmic), truffles, and spreadable chocolate. They also make a killer hot chocolate and very tasty ice creams.
Paradise 6 blocks away |
Buy a coffee or chocolate chaud, and you're treated to a couple of the candies. Ice cream cones are dipped in chocolate and topped with a chocolate spear. The shop is family-friendly, and there's even a yard where children can play. It is my new favorite place.
Godiva will always hold a place in my heart, and I do frequent the shop across the street. I've not tried Neuhaus or Mary, and Côte d'Or is mostly found in grocery stores. Leonidas is delicious, too.
But Blondeel. Oh, my heart. Blondeel.