Kuala Lumpur Family

Judy. When our son Stefan was in college in Savannah studying animation, his best friend was a Malaysian guy named Adi, who was also in animation. We met Adi several times, and really liked him. He and his wife are both animators, and very talented. Nine years ago, when we started our pilgrimage journey, we visited him and his family in Kuala Lumpur. They immediately made us feel welcome. Over the years we’ve texted and emailed and WhatsApped, so when we decided to come to Asia, we knew we needed to visit them again. 

And what a visit! When we walked into Adi and Rina’s apartment, their boys, Bayu and Bumi, immediately called us Grandpa Ted and Grandma Judy, then grabbed Ted to tell him all about their video games while I caught up with their parents. 

Just like his American cousins, Bayu wants us to watch him play video games!

Hard not to jump across the table and hug Bumi and Bayu

The next day we all met Adi’s parents, Dani and Zamin, by the seaside for snacks, then for a fresh fish dinner at an open air restaurant. If we ever stopped talking, it was because we were eating. We so enjoyed being together and hearing about each others’ lives. We kept finding comparisons between their kids and Stefan and Sarah’s boys—they’re so much alike! 

Our whole gang--Adi, Oma Dani, Bumi, GrandpaTed, Bayu, Rina, me, and Aka Zamin!

Gangstas Ted and Bumi 

Good conversation and fresh fish--who could ask for more?

Rina, Bayu, Bumi, and Adi

With our Malaysian grandsons at the Wishing Tree

On our final day, Adi took us to an artisan’s co-op, where we met his good friend Allan, a charming, positive entrepreneur with a furniture workshop he runs with his wife. I did some shopping for handmade goods, we enjoyed a mango lassi with Allen, then headed back to the apartment to spend time with Rina and the boys, as well as with Dani, who drove over to say goodbye. Zamin had a prior commitment, and kept apologizing for not being there. 

A snack with Adi after our tour

Allan with some of his artwork at the co-op

I don’t know how we all managed to connect so closely, but the tears were flowing from all of us as we left. I so wish KL wasn’t so far away. Rina and I were a ridiculous sobbing mess. The boys wanted to know why we couldn’t stay. Dani and I talked about going to her hometown Jogjakarta, Indonesia, together somehow. And Adi hugged us both. Words can’t begin to express our connection with this dear, dear family.

Oma Dani and Grandma Judy

Return to Singapore

Ted. Back in 2017, on our first trip to Asia, Judy and I spent 24 hours in the Chinatown neighborhood of Singapore. We decided at that time that it would be worth a second visit, especially since our good friends Terry and Sue had spent a lot of time there and enjoyed it. 

Singapore has an amazing story. Long a trading center, it was part of Malaya, a British colony, beginning in 1819. It gained its independence in 1965 and began a process to feed, house and sustain an enormous population in a very small amount of space. Today over 6,000,000 people live on a 284 square mile island. That is a bit smaller than the total combined area of Clarke County and Oconee County, Georgia. Further complicating matters, the country has four official languages; English, Malay, Mandarin and Tamil. 74% of the population is of Chinese origins, 14% have Malay roots and 9% identify as Indian, leaving 3% who are “other.” 

We were curious to learn how these disparate groups manage to live side by side peaceably in such a tiny space and thought that Servas, the homestay organization to which we belong, might be of help. While still in Thailand, we contacted a Servas day host in Singapore with the first name of Joy Seng who helped us to plan our three day visit. He recommended that we begin by taking in some sights on our own so, upon arrival, we settled into a hotel near the neighborhood known as “Little India." 

We loved Little India and wandered the narrow streets most mornings, enjoying the food and interesting shops. Judy found a nice salwar kameez (tunic dress) that made a great souvenir from this city state known for its multiculturalism. 

As everyone knows, Singapore is a real architectural showplace with one spectacular building after another. We had to see the Merlion which is a symbol of the Singapore and represents the ancient Sanskrit name for the city, Simhapura, meaning “Lion City.” 

Just across Marina Bay from the Merlion is the impressive 57 story hotel called Marina Bay Sands. At Joy Seng’s suggestion, we had lunch at the top. The Italian restaurant we selected, Lavo, was exquisite. We knew we were in for a special treat when the hostess asked us, “By what names may we address you?".

Lavo is at the extreme left end of the roof

After lunch we wandered around Gardens By The Bay. This urban park provided more architects with an opportunity to display their creativity. 

For our final day in Singapore, Joy Seng set aside the entire afternoon and evening to show us the real Singapore. It has been a challenge to house so many people but the government has done a great job. The vast majority of the inhabitants “buy” apartments in government owned buildings. Technically, they lease them for 99 years. They appreciate over time and can be resold. Since everyone in these buildings “owns” their apartment, they have a vested interest in maintaining their equity so the communities live in harmony and everything is in good repair. There is even an ethnic quota system so each building has a proportional balance of the three main ethnic groups. 

Joy Seng's apartment building is on the right

Joy Seng invited us to tea in his apartment and we took a tour of the complex which includes common areas and shops. 

A community meeting room

A covered outdoor gathering space

Lots of playgrounds

There is even a rental building for low income folks and we walked around one of those which seemed quite nice. This was nothing like the public housing we have seen in the US. The concept may not work in most countries but it seems to work here. 

Joy Seng then gave us a tour of the last remaining kampong (Malay style village) in Singapore. We were fascinated to walk the paths in this tiny village surrounded by tall apartment blocks. 

For our final stop, Joy Seng took us to a Malaysian restaurant. We stuffed ourselves and swapped more stories. One of the wonderful things about Servas is that it allows one to peek behind the curtain of the touristy places we visit. There we find kind, hard working, honest people wherever we wander. Thank you, Joy Seng!

Thailand Highlands Tour

Ted. In addition to exploring Chiang Mai, Judy and I wanted to spend a day up in the hills so we booked a private tour called “1 Day Authentic Hill Tribe Tour” with a firm called Thailand Hilltribe Holidays. 

Northern Thailand is home to seven “Hill Tribes” which are identified by language and culture as being distinct from the Thai people. I won’t go into a lot of detail about these folks because there is lots on info on Wikipedia. 

On our tour we had a brief glimpse of four of these groups and also visited two national parks to see some of the natural beauty. 

Our driver, Adon, was a Thai from Chiang Mai but our guide was Surachai, who was a member of the Karen tribe. 

Our first stop was at a Hmong  village. We had coffee and a snack, visited a market and walked around the village. It was Sunday and there was even a small group worshiping at a little Christian church. Surachai, who like many Karen people, is Roman Catholic, said that good number of the hill tribe people attend Christian churches but aren't above calling on local animist shamans for big problems. 

A Thai snack, sort of like little waffles

We then did a quick drive through a Lisu village on the way to a Lahu village. Here we spent several hours with a local family who prepared lunch, with our help and took us on a tour of the village. The son did his best to speak English but our guide stayed busy interpreting. Of course, Judy and the Mom instantly bonded and never needed an interpreter. 

Judy chopped taro while Surachai chatted with Mom

Lunch (all local vegetables served with rice)

The colorful native dress doesn't quite fit me!

The village sits on a ridge

A longan fruit orchard

Our next stop was Pre Daeng National Park to see a waterfall and relax in the hot springs (where I chose not to risk getting my iPhone wet). 

Srisangwan Falls

We finished the day at Chiang Dao Cave. It has been a Buddhist pilgrimage site for centuries and is filled with shrines. 

A mellow Buddha

Cave entrance

This trip was a great way to wrap up our 2-1/2 weeks in Thailand. Frankly, the big cities and beaches were nice but, in the end, it was the ancient hills that really spoke to me.

Quote du Jour

"Like all great travelers, I have seen more than I remember, and remember more than I have seen." 

                                 - Benjamin Disraeli

                                   

More about Chiang Mai

Ted. This was definitely my favorite destination in Thailand. We were here for a full week and stayed very busy. 

As in Bangkok and Koh Samui, very modern buildings stand side by side with ancient wooden houses. 

The metropolitan area population is over a million but the downtown is pretty compact. Located in the Thai Highlands, it has an elevation of about 1,000 feet so, while it was warm during the afternoon, the temperature dropped nicely at night. 

Waulai Night Market

The old city is clearly defined by a wall that creates a square about a mile on a side. It is surrounded by a moat. 

In the 12th century, Chiang Mai was the capital of the Lanna kingdom.

Three Kings

We learned a lot about Lanna history and art at the Lanna Folklife Center. 

Textiles are a big deal

Prime examples of Lanna decorative arts are found at a Wat (temple complex) called Phra Singh. 

Stupas

Stucco figures

These are statues of old monks. Those green figures are jade!

Stories of Buddha told in murals

Old door

The Thai people are very serious about their Buddhist faith and there are 117 Wats in Chiang Mai. We explored a couple more. 

Wat Sri Suphan (Silver Temple)

Wat Lok Molee

We loved to just wander around, dropping into shops and cafes as they called to us. Our favorite restaurant, Pani served Thai/Japanese fusion dishes and is listed in the Michelin Guide. We had one big adventure outside the city but we’ll cover that in another blog. However, I will not soon forget the friendliness of the people in Chiang Mai.

A charming helper in a Burmese restaurant