Megalithic Malta

Ted. Judy and I were astounded by the age and magnificence of old temples that are scattered across the two main islands of Malta. I won’t bore you with technical definitions like Megalithic and Neolithic but this stuff is old - damned old. We visited three sites plus the National Museum of Archaeology. Obviously, there is tons of information on the internet in case you would like more details but here's a little snapshot.

Ġgantija Temples

It is believed that construction began on this complex on the island of Gozo over 5,500 years ago! That is before Stonehenge or the pyramids of Egypt. Yeah, everything is kind of tumbled down but one can get a sense of the effort involved. Who built these and why? Wouldn’t we all like to know!

Ħal Tarxien Complex

Perhaps a tiny bit newer than Ġgantija, these ruins have been a little bit reconstructed and covered with a large tent.

Ħal Saflieni Hypogeum 

Hypogeum is a Greek word meaning “underground." All of these structures were carved below ground from solid limestone. The earliest rooms which are just below the surface are about as old as the other temples found on the island but more rooms were added in the following centuries further underground. The climate is carefully controlled and only 80 visitors are permitted each day so this is the hottest ticket in Malta. No photography is permitted but Judy snatched one image from a poster in the lobby. 

For Judy and me, glimpses of the ancient world, wherever we may  wander, serve to remind us of what a truly amazing planet it is that we all share.

"The Sleeping Lady" is cherished by all Maltese

6 things to love about Malta

Ted. Málaga is a great transportation hub so Judy and I love to take little side trips by train (Córdoba two weeks ago) or by plane. Last week we made our first visit to the island republic of Malta. 

The few people we know who have ever visited this tiny country said they really liked it. Here are a few reasons why we are now fans as well. 

The people

We found the Maltese to be very friendly and proud of their country. Sadly, with a population of less than 600,000, their unique language is dying out. Immigrants, who are pouring in, comprise around a quarter of the population now and that is accelerating the switch to English - the second official language. We did meet a number of immigrants who seem happy to be able to live here.

With Aaliyah, 100% Maltese

Ted with Milos, from Serbia

One morning we visited the weekly car boot sale. It was like a flea market for the United Nations. 

Car boot sale

Bilingual signage

The history 

I will do a separate post on mesolithic Malta but the recorded history, stretching from the Phoenicians to the Knights Hospitaller, sieges by the Ottomans and the Germans is all fascinating. 

Phoenician tomb, 700 BC

Legendary cave of Calypso (from the Odyssey)

La Guardiola of Fort St Michael, 16th century

Saluting battery begun in the 16th c. (Senglea on the right)

18th century windmill

Senglea

We chose to stay in this town. It’s one of the Three Cities - fortified towns across the Grand Harbour from the capital city of Valletta. It is really just a village and provides a peaceful respite from the hubbub. Modern ferries run back and forth to the Valletta but it is also fun to take one of the traditional dgħajjes. 

The Snop House

I can’t remember when we felt so pampered by a hotel. This tiny bed & breakfast is owned by a French couple who insist on buying local food and only hiring folks who were born and raised in Senglea. These employees taught us much of what we now know about the country. Oh it’s also cheaper than a Holiday Inn Express back home!

Evening wine (Maltese, of course) on the terrace

Co-Cathedral of St. John’s

I’m not that crazy about visiting churches and this one was certainly gaudy. It does have two of my favorite Caravaggio paintings, though. In addition, I loved the Chapel of Our Lady of Philermos. A guard only permitted admittance to those who wished to pray (or possibly just meditate) so it provided a tranquil retreat from the noisy throngs.

Baroque gone mad

St Jerome Writing

Gozo

Only about 5% of the population lives on Gozo, the second largest of the three inhabited islands that comprise the Republic of Malta. It is very rural and most of the country's food is grown here. It does have it’s own charms and is easily reached by an inexpensive 45 minute high speed ferry trip from Valletta. We explored the island on a hop-on hop-off bus but if we return, we would just travel from site to site by Uber as they are available everywhere.

Amigos de Málaga

 Judy.  We always talk about how important the people we meet are to us, and this fourth trip to Málaga, has no exceptions. People in the suburb of El Palo seem to be friendlier. Maybe it's because they're not inundated with tourists, or maybe just because it's more relaxed here, but there are definitely those who have made our stay more enjoyable. And there are some whose names we don't even know.

I practice yoga at a very small studio two blocks from our place. Ana, the teacher, speaks no English, and is very patient when I don't quite get what she said. (I finally learned triangulo means "down dog".) She is small, kind, and tough as nails, and the women in the class have welcomed me with hugs and kind words I don't understand. At least I assume they're kind!

Ana is on the far right, but all of these yogis are special!

Ted plays pickleball in a nearby town. It's a popular sport here, and he's lucky when he can get a spot on the courts. Many of the players chat with him in Spanish and help in English when he struggles. He has learned to shout "Afuera!" when the ball is out.

We may not even know their names, but there are vendors and waiters who always have a smile and remember us.

This lady sells dried fruits and nuts and lets me ask in Spanish while she replies in English. We both practice.

 

At the best fruteria, this sweet owner picks out the best fruits and vegetables for us and always waves when we walk by.

There is a fabulous Argentine restaurant here, which is always busy, but the waiter stays cool and smiling, and makes us feel we're the only ones there.

I always take the stairs down from our sixth floor apartment, but one day my neighbor José was at the elevator when I entered the hall, so I joined him. AND-- the elevator stalled between floors. José called the company, and ten minutes later, the repairman arrived. Meanwhile, we spent some time getting to know each other. I'm not sure he remembers my name, but he always waves and calls me his fellow sobrevivor, or survivor. 

My fellow sobrevivor, José

About a year ago, we took part in a zoom book study, led by Hilary, a priest in a nearby town. He and his wife were in South America when we arrived, but as soon as they returned, he contacted us about having lunch and finally meeting in person. I forgot to take a photo, but he kindly sent one of him in Uruguay with his wife Marijke.

Hilary and Marijke in Uruguay

And of course there are the usual suspects, Fr. Louis from St. George's Anglican Church,

looking unusually serious

and Harvey and Colin, from England, who always seem to be here when we are. We visit them when we're in England.

Harvey expounds while Colin listens, their usual modus operandi

Needless to say, there are others--the man in the wheelchair on the third floor who takes his tiny dog Toby out several times a day and always speaks, Rosella, the warden at church, who goes out of her way to involve us, and many more.

We keep saying we won't come back, but we also keep changing our minds. And these folks are why.

So...what's going on in the US!!??

Ted. Judy and I work hard to avoid commenting on politics or religion in our blogs. However, we feel compelled to contribute our often different perspectives on recent events in the US since we have so many friends around the world who are asking this very question. We do find a bit of irony in the fact that we left the US on January 31 and are writing this post from Málaga, Spain. 

While President Trump makes a lot of nonsensical comments that nobody understands, there is a great deal of debate about some of the actions he is taking. I personally believe that he likes to throw a whole bowl of spaghetti at the wall just to see which pieces stick. Those issues end up being where he spends his time. 

Judy. Unfortunately, this spaghetti throwing is a distraction--a ploy I think Trump understands very well. We need to be better at focusing on real issues.

1. Immigration 

Background: With the exception of Chinese people (banned in 1882) the US had open borders until early in the 20th century. Regulations began to control the flow about 100 years ago. The last significant legislation was passed about 40 years ago. Total estimates vary but of the 340,000,000 people currently residing in the US, roughly 14 or 15% are foreign born and maybe 1/3 of those are “undocumented.” 

Ted. As a grandson of immigrants, I love people who choose to move to the US and believe they make our country stronger. I wish we could come up with a system that would allow everyone to have a simple legal path to citizenship but don’t see that happening. I think President Trump’s actions in this area are very popular and will not change. 

Judy. I think Ted's right, and it's too bad. I also think ICE is targeting legal as well as illegal immigrants. 

2. Executive orders/DOGE 

Background: Since the US Constitution was established in 1789 there has been a constant tension between the three branches of government. Many Presidents have been accused of usurping the power of the legislative branch (Congress) and the judicial branch (our federal courts). Several that I can think of include John Adams, Andrew Jackson, Abraham Lincoln, Theodore Roosevelt and Franklin Roosevelt. Thus, the current accusations that President Trump is overstepping his authority are not without a lot of precedent. 

Ted. I believe that President Trump will win some of his current battles and lose some, depending on the actions of the courts and Congress. Like most people I know around the world, I am frustrated by the size and inefficiency of my government, but would prefer an organized assessment and reduction. 

Judy. Absolutely agree. I'm also frustrated that over the years Congress has allowed the President--any President-- to take over some of the Constitutional responsibilities of Congress itself.

3. Ukraine/Russia 

Background: The citizens of the US have traditionally been loathe to engage in “entangling alliances” with foreign powers. Many folks have always opposed the use of troops outside our borders such as the war with Spain in 1898, WWI and WWII. Treaties and foreign aid have also been widely criticized for over 200 years so this reversal of support for Ukraine has many fans. Sadly, we also have a tradition of abandoning countries such as South Vietnam and Afghanistan. When that happens, our government rarely suffers much domestic criticism. 

Ted. I tend to think that President Trump is waiting to see how the American public responds to this change of policy. If he doesn’t sense a lot of resistance to his approach with Putin, he will continue to move in that direction. If he sees a hue and cry from members of Congress who feel pressure from their constituents, he will back off and move on to something else. Meanwhile, I think it is a good thing that many European countries are beginning to join Poland in taking responsibility for their own security. 

Judy. Boy, there's nothing like being here in Europe to feel the fear of Russia taking over Ukraine. Or Greenland, Panama, Gaza, or Canada. But, like Ted, I'm glad to see countries stepping up to the plate.

4. Gaza/Panama/Greenland/Canada 

Background: We’ve invaded Canada twice and neither time ended well. 

Ted. I think Trump throws these statements out just to see what will happen. Sometimes there are unintended consequences that can be a good thing such as reawakening patriotism in these countries and the Arab proposal regarding the governance of Gaza. 

Judy. And sometimes we deeply offend our closest allies over made-up theories.

5. Tariffs and international trade policies 

Background: The US government has a long history of using tariffs to generate income for the federal government and to protect US manufacturers. Many economists believe that protective tariffs turned the stock market crash of 1929 into the worldwide Great Depression that lasted for many years. Free worldwide trade and economic treaties have only been common in the US in the last 75 years in our country and are not universally popular. 

Ted. I think the people in the US are curious as to how this will affect their pocketbooks. The majority of working class people in the US voted for Trump, based on the hope that he would do a better job of lowering prices and inflation. Middle class and wealthy voters were swayed by other issues. If inflation and prices continue to rise, he will soften the tariffs. 

Judy. Boy, the stock market isn't happy. And now he's saying we might have a recession, but all will be well in the long run. As goes the dollar, so goes the world. Scary.

6. Final thoughts

Ted. I think Trump is a jerk but, then again, I really had to hold my nose when I voted for Harris because I thought she would make a bad President for different reasons. Sadly, many people in the US feel they have to vote for the lesser of two evils every four years. 

I do not see democracy ending in the US. The pendulum will swing back and forth as it always has and there will always be issues and personalities about which our citizens are upset. This has always been the case here. For example, the Presidential election of 1796 when John Adams defeated Thomas Jefferson was one of the bitterest elections in our history. 

In just a few months, campaigning will begin for the midterm congressional elections in 2026. Any major changes in policy will need to be completed by then so we will see just how revolutionary these times really are. 

My two biggest hopes for the near term are that the US can somehow support a lasting peace in Ukraine and that the US economy will remain stable. 

My biggest long term fear is that the US government does not address our debt load which now stands at $36 trillion! That’s 133% of our GDP and we are approaching a tipping point that will crash our economy. If that happens, none of these other issues will matter and we will drag the whole world into a another horrible economic depression.

Judy. Agreed on the debt load. As to democracy ending, I think the jury is still out. Too many Republican members of Congress are too afraid of Trump to speak out, and the Democrats are completely disorganized (as they have been for years--and I'm a life-long Democrat). Friends in Europe ask me why the American people aren't stopping him. That's hard to answer. It has taken years to get to this point.

Please feel free to comment on this post or send us a message.

Paella, Sevilla style

Judy. Almost every time we visit our Spanish family in Seville, someone makes us a paella. I'm sure I'd heard of the dish before, but eating it is a whole different ball game!

Paella, as I'm sure you know, is a traditional Spanish rice dish, tracing its roots through the Valencia region. The name is usually considered to have come from the name of the frying pan used to make it. The rice dish itself may have any kinds of fillers--originally rabbit, chicken, green beans, lima beans, tomato, and saffron, as the farmers made it; or seafood, as the fishermen made it. By tradition, it's made by the men--the Spanish version of American barbeque. Truth is, the women do all the chopping and mixing, and the guys, the part that involves fire and beer.

Maybe you've tasted a good paella in a restaurant. I've yet to experience good restaurant paella, though I'm sure it exists. But once I tasted the real home made dish, I was ruined for anything else. It takes hours to make, with specific times to add the various ingredients.

A couple of weeks ago when we went to see Alex, Inmita, and the kids, they offered to make us one, since we'd asked for a recipe to give our son-in-love Daniel.

That morning we went to their favorite pescadarìa, or fish shop. I hardly knew any of the gorgeous seafood on display, but I know Inmita selected chaco (cuttlefish), clams, mussels, shrimp, langustino, and probably more stuff!

Then we headed to visit Inmita's parents, Pepe and Inma, who were preparing one for a dinner party they were hosting. It was gorgeous, a different from anything we'd experienced, as it was made with fois gras and mushrooms! We didn't get to taste it, since it was still being cooked, but we had a couple of beers and got some photos.

Sipping beer with Pepe and friends

Pepe's paella

And a photo with Pepe and Inma

They gave us a bag of the proper rice--bomba rice--no ordinary rice will do in a good paella!-- and we headed home to start the process.

Inmita began with chopping (in an outrageously wonderful blender) onion, garlic, green, red, and yellow peppers, and simmered those with some tomato sauce, adding seafood broth she'd made with shells of our morning buy. Alex insists the base is the secret of any good paella. I KNOW there was more going on, but it was so beautifully choreographed, I may have missed some of it. I do know she also spent hours cleaning and chopping the seafood!

Guys start doing their part

Outside, Alex set up a borrowed fire ring and set the huge pan on top. Ted added some olive oil, then Alex and Inmita stirred in the vegetable base, and Inmita threw in more broth and the choco fish before they covered it up for a bit. 

Adding the base

Fish added

More broth

Gradually, more  seafood went in, then the rice. That has to be boiled on high for exactly eight minutes, then reduced to simmer. And don't forget the saffron!

Almost ready!

Bit by bit more was added, until we had an absolutely beautiful pan of scrumptiousness, which we ate with gusto until we nearly burst.

Ahhhh!

Love on a plate

To me, making paella is a real act of love. It can be expensive or low-cost, but the time and attention paid is nothing but pure love. And we love our Spanish family, and love the time and attention they give us.

And love in the garden

   

Málaka

Ted. Around 770 BC, Phoenicians from Tyre (in modern day Lebanon) founded a colony on the far western shores of the Mediterranean and named it Málaka. Now known as Málaga, Spain, it is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in Europe. 

This community has been part of many empires, Carthage, Rome, the Visigoths and Byzantium. From 711 until 1487, it was part of a series of Islamic caliphates which ended with the “Reconquest” when it fell to the Spanish monarchs Ferdinand and Isabella. 

If one looks carefully, it is still possible to find traces of the Phoenician origins. Portions of the Málaka city wall are still visible - most notably in the Picasso Museum.

The enlarged fort, called by it's Arabic name, the Alcazaba, is a prominent feature of the city today. A tunnel under the fort, has the name of the original city written in the Punic alphabet used by the Phoenicians.

Archaeologists are routinely excavating Phoenician gravesites in the area.

Phoenician sarcophagi

6th Cent BC Corinthian helmet from a tomb

And then there are the jábegas. 

These boats were once used by fishermen, who would row offshore, cast nets on the water and then row back to shore, towing the nets, now full of fish which would be emptied on the beach. It sounds like something the Apostles Peter and Andrew would do, doesn’t it? 

Nowadays, there are a number of rowing clubs who race their jábegas from time to time. You can see the teams practicing everyday along the coast. 

The jábegas are modeled after the boats used by the Phoenicians and even include the eyes on the front to ward off sea monsters. 

Artist's rendition of beach at Málaka

Speaking of fish, legend says that, once a year, an image of a Phoenician goddess named Noctiluca, was carried into the sea in the area of Málaka to insure an abundant harvest for the fishermen. On the 16th of July every year, Spanish fishermen still process the Virgen de Carmen on the water in a jábega for the same purpose. Hey - it never hurts to ask! 

A local artist has created a beautiful statue of Noctiluca that stands proudly along the beach at nearby Rincón de la Victoria.

We are very aware of the Roman and Islamic influence on this corner of Europe but it’s also fun to explore the most ancient remnants of civilization here.